I shouldnt have removed the sump

[ray bear]

Hi everyone, changed the oil on my 72 V7 sport today and looked a little metallic so decided to remove sump for a peek and 3 tiny pieces of chrome sitting on bottom, bike gets 2000k oil changes and oil always  comes out as good as when it first went in so this has only just happened, anyway Ill get some new cylinders from my supplier here in Australia and I suppose being a v7 sport I should keep with the 750 arrangement for originality unless someone thinks theres a better way and also is it worth looking further into the engine such as removing bearing caps or oil pump for a look or take the gamble with a 40000 mile engine and give it a couple of quick oil changes after barrel replacement as a flushing exercise Thanks all   Bill

[Vasco DG]

No, you've done exactly the right thing. Why Bugger a good motor?

The whole thing will need re-sealing anyway. Do the job right and go through it top to bottom and front to back. You don't buy a 40 year old shitter and expect it to be *New*.

Pete

[lawries]

It was a failed oil pump that did for my '72 V7 Sport.
I would check the whole engine through.

[Cam3512]

Does your Eldo still have chrome bores?

[ray bear]

No the Eldo received the Nikasil treatment by its last owner so its all ok but have never had this failure before and im sure I have caught it early however it only takes one tiny piece to bring it all  crashing down but was hoping to check bearing shells and pump and if ok run with it but wanted to see what the general consensus is amongst other owners that have had the same problem before I destroy a recoverable engine.  I think there is only one answer but its worth asking around first.

[Chuck in Indiana]

"Ya feeling lucky?"  Seriously, if it was an oil filter engine, I *might* be tempted to check the oil pump.. after all it's the only thing that sees non filtered oil.. but it isn't an oil filter engine.
Sorry, I don't think you have any choice but to tear it completely down, clean out the oil galleries, etc.

[acogoff]

     My vote is for spalling cam followers and check the Y top end oil feed hose and the inside of your rocker shafts. For some reason these type of debris seems to migrate there.

[JoeW]

     My vote is for spalling cam followers and check the Y top end oil feed hose and the inside of your rocker shafts. For some reason these type of debris seems to migrate there.

+1

Also, As far as I know, Gilardoni has stopped making kits for the Sport. At least I couldn't get them in the states last time I looked.

[motogman]

I have been evaluating what to do with the chrome bores on my V7 sport which are still in tack without evidence of any flaking or bubbling as yet but I have been convinced by the body of experts here and the fact that I am doing the motor already, to replace the bores.

During my investigations there seem to be lots of rumors that Gilardoni is going to make some V7 Spec kits this year.  Certainly not certain at this point but there seems to be some hope.

Others have indicated that the Ambo kit (83mm diameter for 758cc versus 82.5 diameter for 748 cc) works on the V7 motor but it is a slightly lower compression ratio.  Some have suggested for normal usage little to no impact.

The option I am pursuing is to have the original V7 bores reworked & plated with Nikasil by Millennium in Wisconsin.  This may be a bit more problematic for you being out of country but the global mail is pretty easy these days.  For this process I am using the original pistons that are in good condition and getting new rings.

So  yes - there are some choices.

(most info I have reiterated is from others on this site and can be found in a thread I posted a few weeks ago.)

[JoeW]

I have been evaluating what to do with the chrome bores on my V7 sport which are still in tack without evidence of any flaking or bubbling as yet but I have been convinced by the body of experts here and the fact that I am doing the motor already, to replace the bores.

During my investigations there seem to be lots of rumors that Gilardoni is going to make some V7 Spec kits this year.  Certainly not certain at this point but there seems to be some hope.

Others have indicated that the Ambo kit (83mm diameter for 758cc versus 82.5 diameter for 748 cc) works on the V7 motor but it is a slightly lower compression ratio.  Some have suggested for normal usage little to no impact.

The option I am pursuing is to have the original V7 bores reworked & plated with Nikasil by Millennium in Wisconsin.  This may be a bit more problematic for you being out of country but the global mail is pretty easy these days.  For this process I am using the original pistons that are in good condition and getting new rings.

So  yes - there are some choices.

(most info I have reiterated is from others on this site and can be found in a thread I posted a few weeks ago.)

I hadn't heard about V7 cylinders going back into production, I'll keep an eye out for them. I used an Ambo kit on a Sport earlier this year. The pistons are identical except for the .5 mm larger diameter on the Ambo and the intake valve relief cut into the Sport piston. I had my local machine shop cut the relief into the pistons with no clearance or performance issues. BTW, Curtis has a few NOS sport pistons in stock, last I talked to him.

[mrrick]

The option I am pursuing is to have the original V7 bores reworked & plated with Nikasil by Millennium in Wisconsin.  This may be a bit more problematic for you being out of country but the global mail is pretty easy these days.  For this process I am using the original pistons that are in good condition and getting new rings.

I've been led to understand that new rings with old pistons is a less-than-optimal situation, the old pistons having worn lands, even if appearing fine.
Wd also suggest sending the pistons and rings along with the barrels, so they can confirm proper fitment and clearances.
I salute you for keeping good care of a great old machine!

[JoeW]

The option I am pursuing is to have the original V7 bores reworked & plated with Nikasil by Millennium in Wisconsin.  This may be a bit more problematic for you being out of country but the global mail is pretty easy these days.  For this process I am using the original pistons that are in good condition and getting new rings.

I've been led to understand that new rings with old pistons is a less-than-optimal situation, the old pistons having worn lands, even if appearing fine.
Wd also suggest sending the pistons and rings along with the barrels, so they can confirm proper fitment and clearances.
I salute you for keeping good care of a great old machine!

There is a spec for ring groove clearance, .0011-.0024" also, the pistons should be checked for skirt collapse. I would for sure send the pistons (once determined to be within spec) with the cylinders for fitting but, you can set and adjust the ring end gap yourself.

[redrider90]

I have to take my 2011 Sonata in for a recall. 2011-2012 they had problems with metal particles left in the engine after machining. So far the failure rate is 2% according to the dealer. I get a new engine if they find any metal in the oil which is highly unlikely. The shop manage told me that so far all failures have come in via tow truck after the engines seized. 44K miles I think I would know if I had any problems.