Author Topic: 1975 T-3 Distributor removal (Read 6031 times)

T-3Dave · « **on:** March 25, 2014, 01:42:15 PM »

The o-ring on my distributor has apparently given up doing any kind of sealing and I would like to fix the leak (i.e. remove the distributor) without crabbing the frame for clearance. I have checked the other suspect areas (vent lines, oil lines) and am relatively certain the leak is from the dizzy. The stock airbox has been removed. (I am running the LeMans type I breather box instead for venting and MGCycle K&N pod air filters).

Can anyone confirm if it is possible to pull the dizzy without crabbing the frame to gain access? The bike is a 1975 T-3 850 with the standard dual point distributor.

I've done a search of the forum and the results were some said yes and some said no.

I will crab the frame if necessary, done it a few times, but if I don't have to, well....

Vasco DG · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2014, 03:10:32 PM »

No, it should just pull out once the clamp is swung out of the way. The base is sealed with a gasket. Get the earlier Loopframe gasket, its more robust.

Pete

injundave · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2014, 04:57:23 PM »

If you have oil gathering inside the distributor around the points, you can also remove the gear on the bottom of the shaft, pull the shaft out and fit a small seal at the bottom. A 12 x 28 x 7 seal (really not expensive) fits nicely into the distributor housing below the lower bearing. A new roll pin to hold the gear on, time it up and you're away.

redrider90 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2014, 07:11:38 PM »

Find TDC before you pull it. So you know exactly where it drops back in. When I replaced my gasket the timing was spot on after re-installling dizzy.

nc43bsa · « **Reply #4 on:** March 26, 2014, 12:12:49 AM »

Quote from: redrider90 on March 25, 2014, 07:11:38 PM

Find TDC before you pull it. So you know exactly where it drops back in. When I replaced my gasket the timing was spot on after re-installling dizzy.

And take pictures.

T-3Dave · « **Reply #5 on:** March 26, 2014, 03:04:38 PM »

Thank for the info and tips. Much appreciated. I will get the gasket ordered and hopefully have this fixed soon.

Tom · « **Reply #6 on:** March 26, 2014, 03:07:42 PM »

Pix with a digital camera is a good tip.

Dukedesmo · « **Reply #7 on:** April 22, 2016, 06:11:18 AM »

A search found this old post but as this is relevant to my question, hopefully I'm excused.

I see that it is possible to remove the distributor on the T-3 with the engine in the frame, now I'm not familiar with the differences/similarities between the models but am I right in assuming that this can also be done with an LM2?

Thanks in advance.

chuck peterson · « **Reply #8 on:** April 22, 2016, 07:38:25 AM »

Tank off should be easy....harder to put back right....see Guzziology

Dukedesmo · « **Reply #9 on:** April 22, 2016, 10:57:42 AM »

Quote from: chuck peterson on April 22, 2016, 07:38:25 AM

Tank off should be easy....harder to put back right....see Guzziology

Thanks, I was hoping it could be done because I was reading (Haynes manual) that the engine needed to be out of the frame to get the distributor out and I really didn't want to be doing that.

Dukedesmo · « **Reply #10 on:** April 22, 2016, 12:11:48 PM »

As for Guzziology, I'd like to get it but the only place I can find it is (US) ebay but the postage (to UK) is more than the book, making it very expensive.

There must be a more affordable source?

Stevex · « **Reply #11 on:** April 22, 2016, 12:59:15 PM »

Before I removed my LM2 distributor I centre popped 2 witness marks on the body and crankcase too, which helped a lot when refitting.

Dukedesmo · « **Reply #12 on:** April 22, 2016, 03:39:02 PM »

Quote from: Stevex on April 22, 2016, 12:59:15 PM

Before I removed my LM2 distributor I centre popped 2 witness marks on the body and crankcase too, which helped a lot when refitting.

Good idea but the reason I want to remove it is that whilst messing with other things (removing the camshaft) I believe that it has turned a tooth or so on the drive gear and so is in the wrong position, at least I think it is (need to investigate), if so I need to find the correct position but I was more worried as to whether it could be done with the engine in the frame because the Haynes manual says that the engine needs to be out of the frame and that would make the job a whole lot harder...

jacksonracingcomau · « **Reply #13 on:** April 22, 2016, 09:57:04 PM »

When I put points into Cali 1100, I duplicated O ring groove from blanking plug on points housing (not actually a distributor) use orig factory O ring size from 90's on

Infinitely better than paper gasket, is still bone dry 2 years later, thoroughly recommend,

Gino · « **Reply #14 on:** April 23, 2016, 03:19:05 AM »

Recently changed the distributor on my t3, no issues getting it out and no problems timing it up, "borrowed" a replacement from a friends LM2, it was out in 20 minutes.

Tom · « **Reply #15 on:** April 23, 2016, 03:42:38 PM »

I'll routinely pull the distributor to check the points.

Dukedesmo · « **Reply #16 on:** April 25, 2016, 07:21:40 AM »

I can confirm that on an LM2, contrary to what it states in the Haynes manual, you can indeed remove and refit the distributor with the engine in the frame, in fact quite easily.

I found it easier to remove the breather box and RH carb to get at the bolts but overall very straightforward.

Tom · « **Reply #17 on:** April 26, 2016, 05:49:46 PM »

I use a 1/2" distributor wrench that I originally got for a '66 Chevy van.

mtiberio · « **Reply #18 on:** April 27, 2016, 08:03:50 AM »

I use a 13mm crows foot on a long extension...

Antietam Classic Cycle · « **Reply #19 on:** April 27, 2016, 08:35:54 AM »

Tom · « **Reply #20 on:** April 30, 2016, 02:03:18 PM »

Mike and Charlie.....like minds think the same or something like that.

I have both usually whichever I can grab first.

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Author Topic: 1975 T-3 Distributor removal (Read 6031 times)

Vasco DG