Bypass screws all the way in-2001 EV

[drburt]

My 2001 EV didn't like to start and idle without holding the choke on or holding the throttle open a little (when I bought it, used, the representative I was dealing with told me that Guzzis are cold natured, and I would always have to use the choke until it warmed up, even in 100 degree heat).
I did a TPS set and TB balance today (Last week I corrected the valve clearance that the dealer told me they set before I bought the bike, less than 1500 miles ago).
After searching the archives for the correct TPS/TB procedure, I decided to just use the procedure in the workshop manual.
The instructions told me to fully close the bypass screws on both sides before balancing (they were between 1/2 and 3/4 turns open).
After balancing, the directions told me to "Gradually open both by-pass screws so as to reach an idling speed of 1,100 +/- 50 RPM".
Opening the bypass screws didn't seem to do anything (I didn't go past 1 turn each). The bike was idling just fine with the bypass screws all the way in.
I went ahead and opened them up to 1/2 turn just because I read elsewhere that they should be.

By the way, it starts without choke or throttle help now, and seems to run like a rocket now, although taking the faring off probably helps performance too.

Is it possible that the bike could be in tune with the bypass screws all the way in?

[rodekyll]

Assuming the evap system is in place, It suggests bad seals at the throttle plate shaft or some other introduction of air.  I think I have bad seals on one of my rigs and it acts the same way -- runs good, sets up good, but doesn't demand the screws be open.  I also don't use high idle -- tossed it.

If the evap system has been removed all bets are off.  It does what it does via a controlled air leak (those little spigots) that sucks fumes out of the carbon can.  If you change that, you change the metered leak, which is also a bypass.

A redneck test of the seals would be to spray something like wd40 or carb cleaner at the throttle shafts and see if it affects the idle.  If yes, there's an air leak there.  I say it's a redneck test because it WILL react to the fluid.  The questions are how much and is it significant.

$0.02

[drburt]

What do you mean by "I also don't use high idle -- tossed it."

[rodekyll]

The high idle (which you are calling a 'choke') simply opens the throttle a little.  It was in my way so I removed the linkage and removed the control. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

For the record your EV doesn't have a choke. the lever on the left is the fast idle, same as using the throttle just a little easier.

The Air Bleed screws simply bypass the throttle

Sounds like you have it going good now.

[Wayne Orwig]

The Guzzi recommendation was one turn open for both, and balance them with the idle stop screws.

I seldom use the fast idle lever, and generally would be fine if it wasn't even there.

[guzzisteve]

Now finish the job & check the Idle mixture setting, make sure it isn't -80 or +80. Embark on your software journey. Fun time!!

[drburt]

Thanks rodekyll: don't know if the evap system is in there or not. Slowly going through this machine to know what's there and know what's been done (by me or previous owner)

Kiwi_Roy: It *is* going good now (I thought it already was!)

OMG: with all the research on the subject, I don't remember seeing the one turn open recommendation, but I did see tons of different ideas on the matter. That's why I decided to just start with the workshop manual. I think I'll try the one turn open and see.

guzzisteve: I guess you're talking GuzziDiag. Haven't ordered the cables yet, but need to. I need it at least to get the correct RPM. Did the idle by the dash tach and ear.

[Wayne Orwig]

2001 EV is P8 ECU , right?
You set the mixture with the trim screw.

[rodekyll]

'01 should be a 15M.  Change happened ~'99