Moly additives question

[leafman60]

How does moly go with grits or steel cut oats ?

 Dusty

HEY!  STEEL CUT OATS!

[antmanbee]

Harpers also sells Redline HD Shock Proof Gear Oil for the final drive or gearbox.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do when it's time to change the lube.
http://www.harpermotoguzzi.com/molyadditive.htm


Other threads on moly and lube.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=32910.0

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=23786.0

[charlie b]

Redline is the stuff that leaks out of my transmission.  My unscientific guess is that it 'sticks' so well that it stays up in the gear train and then migrates down the shift pivot shaft and then out of the case.  Not much, just enough to make a mess on the back of the case.

[Triple Jim]

My unscientific guess is that it 'sticks' so well that it stays up in the gear train and then migrates down the shift pivot shaft and then out of the case. 

The problems I've had with synthetic oil getting out of engines seemed to be that it's just better at squeezing through small openings (wicking, or  capillary action).  I put Mobil 1 in a freshly rebuilt engine, and it found its way out of at least half a dozen shaft seals and gaskets.  Going to Valvoline 10W-40 made every leak stop.

[sib]

My unscientific hypothesis is that after seals are exposed to mineral oil, they somehow become less able to seal synthetic oil.  My '16 V7II, and the '13 V7 before it, have been exposed to nothing but synthetic, and the seals never leaked or seeped any fluid.

[malik]

On modern Guzzis, I've ran nothing but synthetic gear lubes, no moly without issue.
However, Small block guru Sean Fader told me to only use dino oil with moly in the small block rear drive.. synthetics find their way out of that inner seal. <shrug> I don't know if it still applies to the new small blocks. Now you know what I know about that. Not much. 

Correct, in my experience. On the recent trip (30,000 km) on the V7 Classic & the V7 Special, the synthetic final drive oil I used in one fill did tend to leak out the seals significantly more than the usual mineral oil. But we are talking about 300 - 700 km a day, day in day out. Go with the mineral-based 90w140. I've also been using recently 120ml of the mineral based 90w140 plus 50ml of Nulon G70 (aka smooth shift). Seems to be working for the last 24,000km in both bikes. Only an occasional film around the hub, and either none or not much on the wheel rim, but no measurable oil loss on the change. Will know better about the long term wear when the final drives are eventually dismantled for seal replacement - hopefully far into the future.

[Testarossa]

500 miles after the post=flood rebuild I put Shockproof in the gearbox. It promptly leaked into the clutch housing, and pretty quickly. Of course it's possible I damaged the new seal in reassembly, but the gearbox didn't go dry on the first fill of dino.

[v7john]

I prefer to keep using the Moly. For over 30 years I added the stuff but then was told it wasn't necessary. 9 months later this happened.

Of course I was told it was coincidence but I'm back to using Moly.

I do love an oil thread. Here's what I use in my old Guzzis