V100 - oil consumption?

[frisco]

Hi, I am considering buying the 2025 v100 Mandello. I am aware they had some issues in the first year (coolant leaks and clunk when engaging 1st gear, clutch slave cylinder seal, I think that is it?). I hope the 2025 model would address the known issues already. But I was wondering if owners notice any oil consumption on the V100.

I currently have a 2004 BMW R1100S oilhead and it needs oil top ups on a regular basis (around 0.6L/1000kms), I would like to avoid that with my next bike.

Thanks for any info.

[Clifton]

My 2024 V100 has used no oil in 8,000 miles. There is a pronounces clunk and slight lurch engaging first from neutral and engine heat starts being noticeable 90+ degrees. Those are my only slight complaints.

[2dogs]

That clunk/lurch engaging first gear is a result of the wet clutch in the V100

[Vagrant]

Hi, I am considering buying the 2025 v100 Mandello. I am aware they had some issues in the first year (coolant leaks and clunk when engaging 1st gear, clutch slave cylinder seal, I think that is it?). I hope the 2025 model would address the known issues already. But I was wondering if owners notice any oil consumption on the V100.

I currently have a 2004 BMW R1100S oilhead and it needs oil top ups on a regular basis (around 0.6L/1000kms), I would like to avoid that with my next bike.

all the 1100 BMW's seemed to do that. Guzzi's don't use oil.
Thanks for any info.

[Moparnut72]

My '23 doesn't use any oil. The clunk is somewhat substantial but a lot less than the Harleys I had prior. The clutch was upgraded for '24 I believe and the clunk is supposed to be quite a bit less. It has a wet clutch so there will be some clunk. The slave seal on mine is still original, no leaks. My dealer knew nothing about it when it went in for its first service. I have done my own service work since.
kk

[frisco]

Thank you for all the answers. Looks like this is not something I need to worry about.

[frisco]

That clunk/lurch engaging first gear is a result of the wet clutch in the V100

Is MG using some kind of a special wet clutch that is acts this way? My R1100S has a very pronounced clunk as well, and not only when shifting into 1st, but it has a dry clutch disk (that I am currently in the process of replacing...)

[Moparnut72]

My 1400 Audace had noise and a little lurch when going into 1st from rest. It was more of a thunk than a clunk. Sounds funny but there was a definite difference between my Harleys and V100.
kk

[azccj]

Is MG using some kind of a special wet clutch that is acts this way? My R1100S has a very pronounced clunk as well, and not only when shifting into 1st, but it has a dry clutch disk (that I am currently in the process of replacing...)

MG designed the V100 clutch the opposite of a normal wet clutch. The clutch inner hub is attached to a shaft that’s connected directly to the crankshaft. So the entire clutch assembly spins at the same speed as the engine. The primary gear reduction is between the outer clutch basket and the transmission input shaft. The reason why that horrible clunk occurs when shifting from neutral to first is because 1, the whole clutch assembly is spinning at 1500 RPMs at idle as there is no primary gear reduction between the engine and the clutch. And 2, the heavy part of the clutch assembly, the outer clutch basket and all steel clutch plates, acts as a small flywheel and comes to an instantaneous stop when the transmission is shifted into first.

[Moparnut72]

Thanks for the explanation, I didn't realize this. I really need to adjust my riding habits and park my bike in first instead of neutral. I have many years under my belt with kick start machines that had to be in neutral to kick start and finding neutral with a dead engine could sometimes be a hassle. Avoiding the clunk would probably save some wear and tear.
kk

[Huzo]

Thanks for the explanation, I didn't realize this. I really need to adjust my riding habits and park my bike in first instead of neutral. I have many years under my belt with kick start machines that had to be in neutral to kick start and finding neutral with a dead engine could sometimes be a hassle. Avoiding the clunk would probably save some wear and tear.
kk

A couple of observations.
Unlike across the frame crankshaft engines, which make up the overwhelming majority of machines, the Guzzi and Beemers have a clutch that spins at engine revs. The UJM’s and all the others, have a clutch that is put through a gear reduction in or around 4 or 5:1
When you pull the lever in on your Guzzi, the clutch (which was spinning at around 1150 rpm), will begin to spin down and after about 2 or 3 seconds will come to a stop.
On my Norge (dry clutch), this delay in selecting first gear will result in an absolutely silent engagement of the gear dogs.
How does that work on your V100 or Stelvio ?
Also…
Starting your wet clutch bike in gear will certainly rid you of the horrifying clunk, but you will be asking your starter motor and attached mechanism, to supply a lot more torque to spin the clutch basket against the oil drag.
Dunno which is worse…

I can see that this really is repeat of the post a bit earlier, but there may be something in it.

[Frenchfrog]

Excellent explanation Huzo....personally starting in gear would be a definite no no unless in an absolute emergency.

[Moparnut72]

A couple of observations.
Unlike across the frame crankshaft engines, which make up the overwhelming majority of machines, the Guzzi and Beemers have a clutch that spins at engine revs. The UJM’s and all the others, have a clutch that is put through a gear reduction in or around 4 or 5:1
When you pull the lever in on your Guzzi, the clutch (which was spinning at around 1150 rpm), will begin to spin down and after about 2 or 3 seconds will come to a stop.
On my Norge (dry clutch), this delay in selecting first gear will result in an absolutely silent engagement of the gear dogs.
How does that work on your V100 or Stelvio ?
Also…
Starting your wet clutch bike in gear will certainly rid you of the horrifying clunk, but you will be asking your starter motor and attached mechanism, to supply a lot more torque to spin the clutch basket against the oil drag.
Dunno which is worse…

I can see that this really is repeat of the post a bit earlier, but there may be something in it.

I am not saying that I will start the bike in gear with the clutch engaged, instead disengaged. Letting the engine idle with the clutch disengaged will not let the trans come to a stop eliminating the clank. The oil in the clutch will produce enough drag to keep the trans main shaft to continue to spin resulting in the clunk. Later models have cushioning springs in the clutch disc or pressure plate(?) to help decrease the shock. And yes gear reduction in primary cases reduces the initial shock of going into gear, unfortunately due to the design of our bikes as well as some BMWs this becomes an issue. With a dry clutch this effect is greatly reduced in fact it is hard to tell on my V7 if it has gone into first or not.
kk