Author Topic: 2012 V7C rear brake  (Read 1272 times)

Offline rbond

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2012 V7C rear brake
« on: February 26, 2018, 09:46:58 AM »
Had to replace rear pads, had to remove caliper to remove and install pad retaining pin. Bled line with half a bottle of fluid, seemed to finally quit bubbling. However pedal still goes too far down before I get any braking action. Took off caliper again to make sure pads were not binding, remount and bled again. Still not working properly. I have done many cars, replacing both calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinders and bled all no problems. This is stumping me, any ideas?
2012 MG V7C
1976 Suzuki GT500A
1978 Suzuki GS400C (long gone)
1973 Suzuki TS 100K (first new bike)
1969 Honda S90 (very first bike)

Offline malik

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Re: 2012 V7C rear brake
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2018, 03:43:30 PM »
I assume the spacer is in and the right way around. I shouldn't think you'd be able to get the caliper back on if it were not.

The rear brake is semi floating. The bit of the caliper that the locating pin screws into slides in the calip on two pins. Check that this slides easily and that the dust seals are still looking good. One of those dust seals on the V7 Special was mangled, grit & dirt had jammed the sliding action.

You have checked the operation of the pistons with the caliper off? Stick a flat bar between the pistons & operate the brake; lever the pistons back & try again. The pistons should move freely & evenly.

I have noticed that it does take several pumps or more to bring the pressure up to the rear brake after removal. Check the operation of the rod into the master cylinder & adjust if necessary - there needs to be a little free play there, not a lot.
2010 V7 Classic, 2014 V7 Special
1996 1100 Sport Carb (in NZ), 2004 V11 LeMans (in UK)
Carberry Enfield V-Twin, 2008 Royal Enfield Electra, 2006 RE Electra 535

Offline Muzz

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Re: 2012 V7C rear brake
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2018, 04:41:11 PM »
If the system is the same as the Breva you will note that the Italians in their infinite wisdom put the bleed screw on the BOTTOM. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I find that the best way is to take the caliper off, put a correct sized block of wood between the pads and then bleed. Works a treat. They have yet to work out that air rises to the top. More  :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: One day Elmer Fitch............

Edit: making sure that the bleed is now on the top of course. :thumb:
« Last Edit: February 27, 2018, 02:09:17 PM by Muzz »
Muzz. Cristchurch, New Zealand
03 Breva

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