Author Topic: Just when you think it's fully sorted... (Read 3116 times)

Antiquar · « **on:** February 22, 2018, 10:55:32 AM »

Some of you may remember the G5 project I started on a year ago. Life got in the way but I've been back at it--it's running great, lots of power, and I took it on a long "I can finally trust this thing" ride last night. Only to park it to find a leaky bevel box! I'm guessing the inner seal, as that must be the only seal I didn't get around to replacing during the bike teardown.

I guess it's just the bike reminding me!

guzzisteve · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2018, 11:00:03 AM »

The inner seal will have oil on the axle, just to sort it.

Lannis · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2018, 11:01:55 AM »

Yup, hate when that happens. The silver linings are (A) At least it's not leaking from the clutch area; the bevel box is easy to get to and portable if an expert needs to look at it and (B) Once this is done, it's the last major seal and you SHOULD BE done for a while!

Lannis

oldbike54 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2018, 11:27:23 AM »

Did you "burp" the bevel box after a few miles ? Mine needs it every so often or it leaks a bit .

Dusty

Antiquar · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2018, 01:30:56 PM »

No, I didn't! Just reading up on that now. I'll give the burp procedure a shot--just ride until the box is warm then open and retighten the filler plug?

LowRyter · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2018, 01:39:20 PM »

yeah. Ride it, then open the overflow tap and swuuuuuuuuuush..... .

Tom · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2018, 02:15:48 PM »

:1: on the burping.

rodekyll · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2018, 02:47:45 PM »

Also, what kind of fluid did you use?

I've put synth up against old final drive seals and gotten leaks. Returned to the original dino and had the leak stop. Sometimes synth is just too slippery.

oldbike54 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2018, 03:04:52 PM »

Quote from: rodekyll on February 22, 2018, 02:47:45 PM

Also, what kind of fluid did you use?

I've put synth up against old final drive seals and gotten leaks. Returned to the original dino and had the leak stop. Sometimes synth is just too slippery.

Yeah , same here . Worst case was caused by putting hi-dollar synthetic in the old /5 , it leaked like the Exxon Valdez

Dusty

Antiquar · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2018, 03:30:16 PM »

I just took her for a burping run. No obvious leaks, though I ran my finger under the drive lip and got a little smudge--could've been oil working its way down I suppose. I'll keep an eye on it.

I'm running dino Valvoline 75w90. Should I try a thicker oil?

Tom · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2018, 03:34:30 PM »

You should be okay with that. I run a similar wt. gear lube.

Antiquar · « **Reply #11 on:** February 28, 2018, 04:44:08 PM »

Well it kept leaking so I had the guys at Moto Guzzi Classics rebuild the drive yesterday. Here it is looking nice and clean:

Unfortunately, and you can't make this up, on my test ride around the block my shift pedal broke off! I had not experienced any problems with it up to this point.

So I guess I'm in the market for a replacement pedal now. What are the odds...

Tom · « **Reply #12 on:** February 28, 2018, 04:45:54 PM »

Did you heat that up???

Antiquar · « **Reply #13 on:** February 28, 2018, 04:49:33 PM »

I didn't! Don't know how I missed the discoloration there. I'm going to dig into my teardown photos to see if it was like that before.

Tom · « **Reply #14 on:** February 28, 2018, 04:57:11 PM »

Looks like it was heated up to re-bend into shape. Good luck. I'm not a welder. Maybe it could be repaired???

Antiquar · « **Reply #15 on:** February 28, 2018, 05:01:31 PM »

I think you're probably right. And there was evidence of a past drop when I acquired the bike if I'm remembering right.

Here's a photo of the rest of the shift assembly. Doesn't look good for a repair IMO, but I will talk with someone who can actually weld. It looks like the inner shaft had disintegrated, sheared, or was otherwise broken and the pedal was relying on the outer shell to actually transfer power.

Tom · « **Reply #16 on:** February 28, 2018, 05:04:38 PM »

Ask Mark if he has a used one. If not he should be able to do the repair.

rodekyll · « **Reply #17 on:** February 28, 2018, 05:16:01 PM »

Now that sucks, right there.

If you can work a weldable bone into the hollows of each part, weld to the bone and fill to the surface it can be repaired. It will look ugly, since even though it might work well you can't polish the turdliness out of the surgery. For the same cost as hiring the welder you could simply replace it with a good looking used one.

$0.02. The welder might well take a look at it and recommend plan B.

Lannis · « **Reply #18 on:** February 28, 2018, 05:30:42 PM »

The first and only thing I thought when I saw your post was:

"How in the world did you get a Guzzi rear drive rebuilt in 5 days from the time you took it in .... "?

I would have thought that Mark had work queued up out the yin-yang this time of year ... ?

Lannis

Antiquar · « **Reply #19 on:** February 28, 2018, 05:38:59 PM »

Actually I brought it to him yesterday at noon and it was done a few hours later. Great service!

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #20 on:** February 28, 2018, 05:57:34 PM »

Quote from: Lannis on February 28, 2018, 05:30:42 PM

The first and only thing I thought when I saw your post was:

"How in the world did you get a Guzzi rear drive rebuilt in 5 days from the time you took it in .... "?

I would have thought that Mark had work queued up out the yin-yang this time of year ... ?

Lannis

Mark is pretty much hand to mouth. He doesn't like new bikes, and there are fewer and fewer old ones. He about always needs work just to keep the shop going.

Tom · « **Reply #21 on:** February 28, 2018, 06:28:12 PM »

Quote from: rodekyll on February 28, 2018, 05:16:01 PM

Now that sucks, right there.

If you can work a weldable bone into the hollows of each part, weld to the bone and fill to the surface it can be repaired. It will look ugly, since even though it might work well you can't polish the turdliness out of the surgery. For the same cost as hiring the welder you could simply replace it with a good looking used one.

$0.02. The welder might well take a look at it and recommend plan B.

:1: with Dave on this.

Antiquar · « **Reply #22 on:** March 09, 2018, 02:54:45 PM »

To (god willing) conclude this thread, I opted to buy an aftermarket rear set instead of replacing the stock shift pedal. I picked up a Gifrap rearset from MgCycle. Fitment was straightforward, requiring just a bit of custom work. The Gifraps shift very nicely, no complaints.

Took the bike for a ride up ACH this morning. No leaks.

rodekyll · « **Reply #23 on:** March 09, 2018, 04:39:42 PM »

Yeah, I hate it when the ol' ACH leaks in the morning.

You get the "Half-A-League-Onward" award for continuing to sally forth into the jaws of sortitude.

Tom · « **Reply #24 on:** March 11, 2018, 08:54:02 PM »

Antiquar good to hear on the fix.

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Author Topic: Just when you think it's fully sorted... (Read 3116 times)

oldbike54

oldbike54