PIAA H9 XTreme White Plus Bulb in Breva 1100?

[flower_king001]

Hi,

 Has anyone used a PIAA H9 XTreme White Plus Bulb (high beam) in there Breva 1100? And if so a noticeable improvement or? If so did you also replace the low beam/H7 as well?

Thanks, Brian

[kingoffleece]

I replaced the H7/H9 in my 1050 Tiger and was pleased with the results.

[jagwillie]

I replaced both of those bulbs in the big Breva with the PIAAs. Much improved.
Bill Bassett

[Kiwi Dave]

Expect a shorter life.  I had one in a Breva 1100 that failed in a small town without street lighting.  I had to use my high beam, and was forced to stop when a vehicle approached from the other direction.

I went back to the stock bulb.

[rodekyll]

I have used them in other applications.  What is said about bulb life was true for me -- Much shorter life!  I got a lot of reasons for the miserable service life, from inconsistent voltage to starting the bike with the headlight on (how is THAT avoided on a modern bike?), and too much vibration.  The consensus seems to be that as the wattage goes up the bulb's life drops.  The inherent unreliability is one reason why the +55w stuff is usually not street legal.

I've been chatting with tech support for the HID projectors I bought.  They have solenoid-operated gates to mask off the high beam.  A solenoid is sticking -- won't drop the gate for brights.  While we were discussing that issue I asked about the substitute bulbs for HID and LED that go in standard headlight reflectors.  He confirmed what we should already know about those conversions -- the bulbs (and he said ANYONE's bulbs) are intended to go into projectors.  The light emitters are positioned for projector lenses.  He said that even with the various distance compensators (shims) available for some, they are prone to scatter.  DMM Tuning (my outfit) won't sell to folks they know are retrofitting standard headlights.

I'm saying all this to suggest that if your headlight is a projector type, you might want to look into an alternative to Halogen, like HID or LED.  There is more light per watt used.  But if these are considered standard reflectors, your best bet is still a standard wattage halogen.

[jagwillie]

All,
I believe the draw of those bulbs is approx 55/60 watts even with the 100w rating. I had them in Big Red for 3 years before I sold it, my wife's V7 Classic is an 09 and has one in there since 09, my R100 has had one in for at least 6 years, my "Olddorado" has been using one for at least two years. I have more in other bikes and have yet to replace one of these. Obviously my experience is different than some of the others; it's one of the first things I change on any bike I get.
Bill Bassett

[Wayne Orwig]

Yes, they are still the 55/60 watts.
But they are designed to have a filament size and length, such that the filament gets hotter and brighter at that wattage.

It tried them. Liked the extra light. Did not like being without a working bulb as often as I was. And you pay a high price for the privilege of darkness.

I used the Sylvania Silverstars also. They are a touch brighter, and they too have a short than normal life. But they are more practical.

[John A]

Wire in a relay. Simple to use two, one for high beam, one for low beam. Your switch will then live a long and happy life. Low voltage is a cause for short halogen bulb life

[tris]

The first time I properly rode my B11 it was dark and wet and scared the bejesus out of - as I couldn't see the kerb half the time

I went the other way to your thoughts and fitted a Phillips Extreme Vision (+130%) in the dip position and normal service was been resumed .

That was two years ago and I'm still (though I may have just cursed it) on the same bulb

[tris]

Just found this too from Philips https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/12342XVBW/x-tremevision-moto-motorcycle-headlights

Its a motorcycle specific version of the car bulb I have so maybe some of the short life issues other people have experienced have been addressed with this

[Old Jock]

Wire in a relay. Simple to use two, one for high beam, one for low beam. Your switch will then live a long and happy life. Low voltage is a cause for short halogen bulb life

I understand how killing a bulb at start like RD alludes to will shorten bulb life, you are going from hot to cool to hot pretty quick and in repeated inrush current will also probably play a part in giving the bulb a hard time.

But I struggle with the concept of low volts in themselves being a problem.

Varying voltage yes, but low voltage?

Surely it's Ohms law and the bulb is a resistor, so lower voltage lower current, duller bulb, but that just results in less light.

Why is the bulb life reduced? I'm thinking it would live longer because reduced current means less heat, so the filament is cooler.

What am I missing here?

I'm asking to be educated not trying to be smart

John

[kingoffleece]

I heard the short life reports often.  All I can report is that I've changed an even dozen bulbs to PIAA and have never had the short life issue on any of my bikes.
Eastern Beaver makes a kit to bypass the stock wiring to an H4 bulb.  I'd wager that he also makes the kits for H7 and H9.

[Wayne Orwig]

But I struggle with the concept of low volts in themselves being a problem.

Varying voltage yes, but low voltage?

For halogen bulbs, the theory is that the halogen cycle needs a high temperature. Something about the halides preventing the metal from depositing on the glass and instead being redeposited back on the filament. Google it for details.
But I read a couple of studies, related to headlight modulators in particular, that said in the end the cooler bulb actually lasts longer and the halogen cycle still works well enough at lower temperatures.

[John A]

For halogen bulbs, the theory is that the halogen cycle needs a high temperature. Something about the halides preventing the metal from depositing on the glass and instead being redeposited back on the filament. Google it for details.
But I read a couple of studies, related to headlight modulators in particular, that said in the end the cooler bulb actually lasts longer and the halogen cycle still works well enough at lower temperatures.

Must be an old wives tale then. Thanks Wayne. Ive had better luck if I can find a H4 labeled Heavy duty or motorcycle as mentioned

[Old Jock]

Thanks Wayne

I never thought of that theory

I'll Google it as you suggest, every day a school day, but it looks like the "low volts kills bulbs" theory is dubious at best

Many thanks

John

[Kiwi Dave]

In a previous life I used to be employed in the television industry, and I concentrated on lighting.  I learned an old theater technique where the filaments of the luminaires were introduced to a low voltage (provided by the dimmers) for a period of time until they were warmed up and their internal resistance had stabilized.  Cold filaments have a lower resistance and therefore a greater surge of current when first turned on, which will shorten the life of the bulb.

[Wayne Orwig]

Thanks Wayne

I never thought of that theory

Basically, if the glass on a halogen bulb is getting black from filament metal, it is probably running too cold.