Stelvio Valve Cover Paint is Cracked and Flaking

[TurcoLoco]

Hi all,

I have noticed in the last year the silver paint on both sides have cracked and started flaking.
I haven't really done any work nor spilled any solvents/fluids on the covers so not sure what caused it.
What causes this and other than getting them powder coated which I don't quite have the funds for, what do you think might be a practical and long term fix for it?

Cheers,
TL






PS. I am still waiting for the sp caps so I am going around the bike to see what other noticeable issues there are.

[Huzo]

The handlebar risers (stock), on my ‘07 Norge have developed the same bubbly finish down near the base.
I’ll be interested to find out what the go is there.

[Perazzimx14]

Looks like some of the other fasteners on the bike are also corroded and/or rusty. 

Quick and easy - do nothing

Cheap and not as easy - buy paint stripper hope work use lots of elbow grease and time then rattle can with high heat paint.

Not as cheap (maybe) but easier - pay someone to media blast them then rattle can finish with high temp paint.

Good-fast-cheap: pick any two!

[TurcoLoco]

Thanks for the replies!
I definitely like the quick and easy as it is nothing vital or affecting the way the bike runs (as a matter of fact, it is not even running at the moment).
If I eventually decided to do it, more than likely I'd strip the paint and then a can of VHT Brake Caliper Paint should do the trick.
If I get them media blaster then I would probably pay a bit more and go for powder coating (guessing around $100 for both covers?).

[bigbikerrick]

 My suggestion is,remove valve cover, degrease real good, sand it smooth with #400 wet/dry, and primer and paint. They sell some dupli color brand paint at places like Oriellys ,and auto zone that is gas,and solvent resistant. Its made for car wheels. They have a nice silver metallic color that would look good on there. You can also find a chemical resistant clear coat.
Rick D.

[TurcoLoco]

My suggestion is,remove valve cover, degrease real good, sand it smooth with #400 wet/dry, and primer and paint. They sell some dupli color brand paint at places like Oriellys ,and auto zone that is gas,and solvent resistant. Its made for car wheels. They have a nice silver metallic color that would look good on there. You can also find a chemical resistant clear coat.
Rick D.

thank you, that is a very good suggestion, Rick. I reckon it makes more sense to get a gas/oil/solvent resistant paint than one that is high heat resistant.
After all, valve covers aren't that hot, much like the women I typically date.

[cliffrod]

The cause of the paint(?) failure is corrosion (actually looks like rust but thought those covers are aluminum/alloy) under the paint.  There may have been a failure of the paint allowing corrosion to start or the part may have had a contaminated surface from the point of manufacture.   

If that is not completely resolved before you recoat them, this will only be a practice run for fixing them again later.  They will just keep corroding/rusting, which will eventually cause any coating- paint, powder coating, even chrome- to similarly lift and peel.   

If they were mine, I would blast the outside completely before recoating them.

[TurcoLoco]

The cause of the paint(?) failure is corrosion (actually looks like rust but thought those covers are aluminum/alloy) under the paint.  There may have been a failure of the paint allowing corrosion to start or the part may have had a contaminated surface from the point of manufacture.   

If that is not completely resolved before you recoat them, this will only be a practice run for fixing them again later.  They will just keep corroding/rusting, which will eventually cause any coating- paint, powder coating, even chrome- to similarly lift and peel.   

If they were mine, I would blast the outside completely before recoating them.

I am trying to understand what the "blasting" would do more or better than sanding by hand?
Could there possibly be some sort of an imperfection in the allow that requires it to be covered/filled or something?

[Perazzimx14]

I am trying to understand what the "blasting" would do more or better than sanding by hand?
Could there possibly be some sort of an imperfection in the allow that requires it to be covered/filled or something?

Media blasting is quicker in most instances and will not remove base metal if done with the right media.  It will also prep the metal surface to accept primer then paint.

[cliffrod]

In addition, Blasting can address the surface from all angles including 90 degrees to remove paint, rust, corrosion, etc.  This means media can more easily reach into pits and crevices to better strip the surface.

Sanding will only address the surface in phase with the surface plane (simplified analogy) so will not address anything in pits or crevices unless the entire surface plane is removed until the bottom of the pits & crevices are reached.

[HarveyMushman]

Hi all,

I have noticed in the last year the silver paint on both sides have cracked and started flaking.
I haven't really done any work nor spilled any solvents/fluids on the covers so not sure what caused it.
What causes this and other than getting them powder coated which I don't quite have the funds for, what do you think might be a practical and long term fix for it?

Cheers,
TL






PS. I am still waiting for the sp caps so I am going around the bike to see what other noticeable issues there are.

I hope you aren't waiting for OE Guzzi spark plug caps? You don't need them. Google will point you to other options.

Have you searched eBay for replacement valve covers?

[TurcoLoco]

Media blasting is quicker in most instances and will not remove base metal if done with the right media.  It will also prep the metal surface to accept primer then paint.

In addition, Blasting can address the surface from all angles including 90 degrees to remove paint, rust, corrosion, etc.  This means media can more easily reach into pits and crevices to better strip the surface.

Sanding will only address the surface in phase with the surface plane (simplified analogy) so will not address anything in pits or crevices unless the entire surface plane is removed until the bottom of the pits & crevices are reached.

Thank you both for the explanation! I had a feeling media blasting would be more thorough and quicker.
Powder coating places typically to the media blasting to a certain degree but I will confirm if I decide to go that route.
I don't know how else I could get it media blasted at a reasonable price if I decided to go with rattle can.

I hope you aren't waiting for OE Guzzi spark plug caps? You don't need them. Google will point you to other options.

Have you searched eBay for replacement valve covers?

I actually got two sets from two different sellers. I though one of them was OEM but turns out both were aftermarket (one didn't have a brand) and look identical.
No, I didn't search for valve covers. Replacing them didn't seem necessary and I figured would have been much costlier.

[cliffrod]

If you decide to have parts powder coated, it’s best imho to allow the powder coating company handle the stripping/prep of the part.  This may be mandatory per company procedures in order to warranty their coating services.

Using a relatively small compressor and a hand-held gravity blasting gun (cheap from harbor freight or more from other sources like speed blaster), blasting them yourself is very easy.  You can use baking soda, glass bead or a variety of other media.  Not very complicated or expensive, especially if you only need to rattle-can the parts.