A question to CARC dashboard-savvy members

[ohiorider]

I've owned my 1200 Sport since Oct of 2009.
- LCD dash panel went blank at 27000 miles, came back on after stopping and starting engine.
- LCD continued to work several years, up to 63000 miles.
- Then went blank and stayed blank.
- Purchased used B11 dash from WG member which has worked fine, aside from directional signal indicator on dash and no neutral light, which may be (guess on my part) slight difference in the multiplug socket (12S vs B11 pinout)  Thoughts?

I sent the original dash to Carmo in Holland, who sent it back un-repaired, stating they had no source for a new LCD panel. 

Question/conjecture:  Is it possible that the LCD in the original dash is ok, and that it failed because of a faulty connection between the LCD and whatever drives it?

[guzzisteve]

Bob,  There was a member here that had a new LCD put in his 2V Sport dash and it came from ATL supplier. There's a dealer up your way doing repairs. Can't remember who? Another member here said a dealer in Canada has software to do them. Search dash threads. OR maybe they will chime in.

[Bert Remington]

ohiorider -- I inadvertently discovered my Norge dash did the same after installing a farkle.  Rerouting wires and ferrite chokes fixed the problem.  Hope this helps -- dashboards are real expensive and fussy.

[tris]

You can switch the LCDs from one set of clocks to the other.

I did that on my B11 at the start of this year

Tris

[ohiorider]

You can switch the LCDs from one set of clocks to the other.

I did that on my B11 at the start of this year

Tris

Tris, that isn't something I'd trust myself to do, unless it was a simple operation, i.e. plug and play, no cutting, splicing, soldering, etc.  I'd be interested in a summary of what is involved. 

Thanks,

Bob

[malik]

A mate with a 1200 Sport had similar problems with his dash - took it to a chap with a good rep, problem traced to a break inside the ribbon cable, best fix was to bend & crimp the cable in a working position - the thread is on grisoghetto.

[Kiwi Dave]

Purchased used B11 dash from WG member which has worked fine, aside from directional signal indicator on dash and no neutral light, which may be (guess on my part) slight difference in the multiplug socket (12S vs B11 pinout)  Thoughts?

The multipin socket is identical on the 12S and Breva.  Indeed, I have swapped dashboards between the two models with no ill effects.

It might be worth checking that your wiring or senders didn't develop a couple of faults around the same time you had issues with the new dash.  The neutral light is easy to check, from memory the starter motor has to be removed to get access to the neutral switch.

Might also be worth checking the multipin connectors to the dash too.  If you could borrow another known good dashboard to try, this would make this task easy.

[tris]

Tris, that isn't something I'd trust myself to do, unless it was a simple operation, i.e. plug and play, no cutting, splicing, soldering, etc.  I'd be interested in a summary of what is involved. 

Thanks,

Bob

RIGHT!

Clock Disassssembly
1) Remove the chrome bezel. There are a bunch of tabs that need to be eased back around the edge
2) Remove all the little Phillips head screws that are now revealed - 8 off IIRC
3) This is the tricky bit
    You need to break the mastic seal between the clear face and the case.
    Equip yourself with a bunch dentistry picks and packet of brave pills.
    It's a combination of easing out the sealant where you can see it, some judicious levering, and determination
    Take your time and walk away from it when you start to get annoyed, but it should come off
4) Turn the needles down to their stops counter clockwise with a finger tip
5) This is the other tricky bit
    Using you fingers grasp a needle at its boss and pull and twist still counter clockwise until it comes off.
    You need to be positive rather than powerful
6) Remove the plastic divider
7) Slip a thin knife or metal ruler behind the clock face to remove it
    Its stuck in place in a number of places but also has a ring near the center of the major gauges
8) Undo the 4 phillips screws you can now see. You now have the circuit board disassembled from the case

LCD removal
1) Follow the ribbon cable from the LCD to its connector on the PCB.
    There is a brown piece of plasctic
    Easy the plastic at both edeges forward until it releases the cable
2) Get a small (1") plastic sucker. The sort that you might attach a decoration to a window with
    Attach sucker to the face of the LCD
    Use the sucker to pull the LCD forward while you ease the 3 plastic clips back until its released

Assembly is, as they say in the best manuals, " the opposite of the disassembly"

But bear in mind
1) Position the needles and turn until back on the stops
    I'd recommend that before you push them fully home you reconnect the dash to the bike and fire up the ignition to make the dash do its thing and turn off.
    Make sure that they return to the zero position and adjust if needs be
2) Check on multiple occasions that you haven't left any finger prints anywhere
3) Reseal around the face


Good Luck

Tris

[ohiorider]

Tris, thanks for the information.  I think making the repair is well above my pay grade, but think your level of detail will be useful to me at some future time.  Kiwi Roy, thanks for the plug info.  And to Malik, Bert, and G Steve.

Bob

[tris]

Sounds worse than it is Bob

It took me as MechE months to such myself up to do it, but was fine in the end