V7 III break in service

[Thirtyaughtsix]

I have the service manual in front of me and plan on going by that and doing everything myself. However, are there any tips, tricks, things I should watch out for or do additionally?

[Siamese]

I just got done with my first service.  No surprises.  One of the reasons I got they v7iii is the access to the valves for adjustment.  They were a snap.  Of course, you'll need to get the rear wheel off the pavement to be able to turn it to rotate the engine.  As long as you have a way to lift, I don't think you'll encounter any difficulties. 

[sign216]

I wrote a couple of tutorials for the first series of V7.  They might have a tip or two.

Joe

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157626993357143

[Kev m]

I wrote a couple of tutorials for the first series of V7.  They might have a tip or two.

Joe

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157626993357143

As these things slowly change that's getting less and less relevant.

[usedtobefast]

Oh boy, let's see

... the valve clearances are different in the 2-3 places they appear (manual, vs. sticker under seat, vs. service manual maybe) ... I went with intake of 0.10mm and exhaust at 0.15mm (they are also listed at .15mm intake and .20mm exhaust in some places).

... oil quantities are off a bit ... I ended up at 1.8 in the engine (vs. stated 2 I believe) ... 450cc in the place where the gears slide around (vs 500cc)

... no need to re-torque the V7 iii heads, that is a ii and older thing

... if you really don't want to lift the rear end off the ground, you can roll it forward in gear to get to TDC.  A bit awkward, but if you don't have a stand you might try the odd awkward approach.   

Overall very easy to do.

I also bought the "kits" at AF1 ... they come with OEM filter, o-rings, washers, and factory recommended oil brand and weight.  (They are in Austin, TX)

[egschade]

Oh boy, let's see

... the valve clearances are different in the 2-3 places they appear (manual, vs. sticker under seat, vs. service manual maybe) ... I went with intake of 0.10mm and exhaust at 0.15mm (they are also listed at .15mm intake and .20mm exhaust in some places).

... oil quantities are off a bit ... I ended up at 1.8 in the engine (vs. stated 2 I believe) ... 450cc in the place where the gears slide around (vs 500cc)

... no need to re-torque the V7 iii heads, that is a ii and older thing

... if you really don't want to lift the rear end off the group, you can roll it forward in gear to get to TDC.  A bit awkward, but if you don't have a stand you might try the odd awkward approach.   

Overall very easy to do.

I also bought the "kits" at AF1 ... they come with OEM filter, o-rings, washers, and factory recommended oil brand and weight.  (They are in Austin, TX)

+1 as this mirrors my experience. It's very straightforward.

[Thirtyaughtsix]

Oh boy, let's see

... the valve clearances are different in the 2-3 places they appear (manual, vs. sticker under seat, vs. service manual maybe) ... I went with intake of 0.10mm and exhaust at 0.15mm (they are also listed at .15mm intake and .20mm exhaust in some places).

... oil quantities are off a bit ... I ended up at 1.8 in the engine (vs. stated 2 I believe) ... 450cc in the place where the gears slide around (vs 500cc)

... no need to re-torque the V7 iii heads, that is a ii and older thing

... if you really don't want to lift the rear end off the group, you can roll it forward in gear to get to TDC.  A bit awkward, but if you don't have a stand you might try the odd awkward approach.   

Overall very easy to do.

I also bought the "kits" at AF1 ... they come with OEM filter, o-rings, washers, and factory recommended oil brand and weight.  (They are in Austin, TX)

No re-torque huh? I didn't see that coming. Cadre sells kits too, I got the same exact thing but with the addition of a bottle of solvent. I didn't ask but does this have a specific purpose or is it a just in case thing? I feel like I'm overthinking it

[Kev m]

Retorqing ended with the introduction of the Hemi heads (and corresponding new gasket materials). That's been news since the intro of the V9, what was that 2016 or 2017?

[Thirtyaughtsix]

Retorqing ended with the introduction of the Hemi heads (and corresponding new gasket materials). That's been news since the intro of the V9, what was that 2016 or 2017?

Hell I have no idea, I really didn't start following the newer stuff religiously until about a year ago when I knew I could afford one. I wouldn't have been reading too deeply in 16-17

[usedtobefast]

But not need to re-torque is a good thing. 

I actually never could grasp the idea of the re-torque anyway.  I mean if a bolt is supposed to be xxNm , why not put the torque wrench on it, set to xxNm, and see if it clicks or needs a bit of a turn.  Never understood the loosen and re-tighten thing.

[Kev m]

But not need to re-torque is a good thing. 

I actually never could grasp the idea of the re-torque anyway.  I mean if a bolt is supposed to be xxNm , why not put the torque wrench on it, set to xxNm, and see if it clicks or needs a bit of a turn.  Never understood the loosen and re-tighten thing.

Certain gasket materials would further compress after some heat cycles. Resetting head torque under those conditions would help ensure the clamp load on those gaskets and prevent future leaks.

Or stated another way, if the gaskets compressed more under heat expansion then when the motor cooled the heads would no longer be able to snug and bolt torque would be loose compared to spec.