How far is too far

[Penderic]

Time and money factors can delay the decision. I wish the makers would make it easier for us owners! Changing a tire can get expensive when the task involves a lot of time and effort to get the wheel off the bike and the proper tools/tech to use (so that rims are not damaged).


Fixing a tire in the middle of a trip can get expensive. 


  Having an extra set of hands can save a lot of time!

[DougG]

Hi Dan,
A while back you mentioned going to Shinko tires 180/65/17 in the rear.  Are these the new tire you just put on, or is that the one you wore out?

DougG

[Ncdan]

Ok guys a follow up.
I replaced the factory OEM tires on the 1400 with Shinko 180 series.
They went on with absolutely no issues and took no weights to balance. I took it real easy the first few miles to wear off the factory mold lube stuff then put them through the paces. I immediately notices that the handling going into curves was “quicker and more precise “. Let me say that this could be because it’s a new tire as much as a different between the different size and being a bias and not a radial type tire. I did push them fairly aggressively but not a floorboard grinder and they felt very stable and predictable. These are not my first Shinko tires I ran them on a HD tourer, two up and luggage, many miles over the years and found them to be very dependable in every aspect. Not trying to represent any particular tire brand just an honest assessment. Also reporting that I think dropping the 200 series tire on the 1400 series bikes is acceptable if not actually a better option and they are much more economic in value. My entire cost to replace both tires including labor was less than 300 bucks. I didn’t feel shorted at all.

[DougG]

Hi Dan,
Thanks for the update.  What you described about the noticeable handling improvement echoes my own experience.  I went from OEM Dunlop 200's to Dunlop 180 series.  Another interesting, and notable advantage was this...I have a motorcycle dolly (Black Widow) to move my Cali 1400 around the garage.  The long 'ramp' is 8" wide and the 200 series tires were 8 1/4' wide.  The rear tire would ride on the side rails and not seat properly on the deck.  I actually put a 2x8 on the deck to elevate the tire so it seated more comfortably.  When I switched to the 180 series, the rear tire dropped solidly into the deck, I was able to remove the 2x8 and it worked just as well.  The bottom of the tread sat solidly on the deck.  Much more stable, especially when on the side stand.
Some folks have expressed concern that using a tire (180 series) commonly found on 5" rims put on the MG 6" rims would widen its footprint as much as the 200.  This was obviously not the case with the Dunlops.  I can't speak to other brands, but I can testify with 100% confidence that the 180 series Dunlops are definitely narrower than the 200 series on my Cali 1400.
Be well,
DougG

[Ncdan]

Thanks Doug. So if you used the Dunlop 180 then you still have a radial tire, correct?  I would love to ride a bias and radial back to back just to see and feel the difference, if any exists?

[bad Chad]

Mark, what is the rationale for running a rear up front and backwards?  I can supposition why one might run a rear up front, but backwards?

[Ncdan]

Mark, what is the rationale for running a rear up front and backwards?  I can supposition why one might run a rear up front, but backwards?

I was wondering the same thing but didn’t want to hear the answer 😂
Just funning, Mark is my buddy and I’m sure he has a perfectly rational explanation 👍👍

[DougG]

Hi Dan,
Yup, they are radials.  Please post if you actually experiment with radials/bias ply tires on the Cali 1400 and what you conclude.

Be well,
DougG

[Ncdan]

Hi Dan,
Yup, they are radials.  Please post if you actually experiment with radials/bias ply tires on the Cali 1400 and what you conclude.

Be well,
DougG

Doug, I was not talking about mixing them, I was referring to any noticeable difference in the two types. I think someone posted a response about mixing the two types on the same bike and best I remember they said they couldn’t feel any issues. Maybe someone will jump in on the subject.

[stephenm]

I am on my second bias ply rear (1400 Touring) 180/65, a Dunlop D407. Allowing for the fact that we change tyres when they are worn down (can affect how they handle) and start new tyres at their best, I couldn't really tell any difference between radial and bias, or between 200 and 180 widths. The only thing I notice with the D407 is that in the last 2k of its 15k (km) life, it needs a bit more effort to heel into corners. The bike handles sweetly solo, two up and loaded, in the mountains, sweepers etc. The 6" rim width is at the edge of what a 180 can be fitted to, and it does flatten the profile somewhat.

Stephen

[TN Mark]

Mark, what is the rationale for running a rear up front and backwards?  I can supposition why one might run a rear up front, but backwards?

The larger 160/60 up front increases the contact patch and is as big as you can fit under the fender. Turning in 'backwards' against the rotational arrow ensures the siping is properly angled to mimic a standard front tire. Therefore water egress matches the oem set up. I'm on my second rear tire up front. It's a Dunlop Roadsmart II MT. The MT stands for Multi Tread so it's the same as the Dunlop E4 MT I usually run in the back. My last Dunlop E4 rear tire had over 18K on it when it just reached the wear bars.

My first rear tire up front, at over 32K miles (yes, 32K miles) still wasn't to the wear bars. I replaced it a bit early as I have a longer trip coming up. The larger front tire also doesn't track rain grooves or ruts in the road as much as the oem 130/70. Plus it simply feels more planted in the corners. A 160/60 up front on a Victory Cross bike is a fairly common thing to do. No reason what so ever to go back to the oem 130/70 unless I'm caught somewhere and simply need a tire. Then any Honda dealer would work because the oem Victory Cross bike tires were the same size and type as the Gold Wing for many years.

[Ncdan]

The larger 160/60 up front increases the contact patch and is as big as you can fit under the fender. Turning in 'backwards' against the rotational arrow ensures the siping is properly angled to mimic a standard front tire. Therefore water egress matches the oem set up. I'm on my second rear tire up front. It's a Dunlop Roadsmart II MT. The MT stands for Multi Tread so it's the same as the Dunlop E4 MT I usually run in the back. My last Dunlop E4 rear tire had over 18K on it when it just reached the wear bars.

My first rear tire up front, at over 32K miles (yes, 32K miles) still wasn't to the wear bars. I replaced it a bit early as I have a longer trip coming up. The larger front tire also doesn't track rain grooves or ruts in the road as much as the oem 130/70. Plus it simply feels more planted in the corners. A 160/60 up front on a Victory Cross bike is a fairly common thing to do. No reason what so ever to go back to the oem 130/70 unless I'm caught somewhere and simply need a tire. Then any Honda dealer would work because the oem Victory Cross bike tires were the same size and type as the Gold Wing for many years.

Makes sense and the mileage is great!

[bad Chad]

That is stunning mileage, even more so knowing neither you or the bike are petite!    I would think handling would be negatively affected

[antmanbee]

Shoe polish? 

This quoted from, https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/worlds-fastest-indian-movie-opens-nationwide/
Thirty years later, this film became a labor of love for both the director and his star (who say they never would have believed they'd work together after making The Bounty in the 1980s). The story is as much about the endearing, eccentric Munro and his ability to charm strangers into participating in his crazy quest as it is about making a collection of 40-year-old and homebuilt mechanical bits and age-cracked tires masked with shoe polish (which Munro actually did) go such an improbable speed.

[wirespokes]

Thanks for explaining that antmanbee. Yeah, that was a good movie.

As for running a rear tire up front against the arrow, the main reason isn't due to siping and expelling water. Tires aren't made by injecting a bunch of rubber into a mold, cooking it and then popping it out. No - they lay up strips of fabric and bond it all together with rubber. There's a place where the cords overlap and that joint is the main reason for the direction it needs to be run. That joint is stronger in one direction than the other.

When a tire is built for the rear, the acceleration forces are the main stress the tire needs to stand up to.

On the front, the braking forces are the main stress - the opposite rotational direction from the rear.

[kballowe]

We had a nice Father's Day ride and I checked the rear tire when we returned.

Hmmmm - time for a change






four dice

[Ncdan]

We had a nice Father's Day ride and I checked the rear tire when we returned.

Hmmmm - time for a change






four dice

You going back with the OEM?

[kballowe]

You going back with the OEM?

Dan -

That's a 190/60R-17 on a Yamaha Roadliner.
But - I did go back with the OEM size on that 1400 Cali

[Ryan]

I worked at a shop for a while, and a guy with an FJ came in for his free oil change. We recommended a new rear tire, which he rejected, accusing us of trying to make money on the oil change. Two weeks later, he called demanding that we pay to trailer his bike in because the rear was to the chords and we failed to catch it at the last service. We said no, be said he would take his business elsewhere, and we thanked him.  I replace my tires when they start to square off, or when they get to be about 5 years old, whichever comes first. Old tires get hard, and lose grip in the wet. I live in the Pacific Northwest, and wet grip is a necessary thing. Having said that, I have only replaced old tires on bikes I have purchased used. Once in my hands, they wear out more quickly than they age.

[Huzo]

Dunno mate.
Ask the blokes who crashed...