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Yea TomIf you'll strap the rear down and compress the rear shocks till the swing arm pivot point , center of front pulley , and the rear axle are all in a strait line ... then , that will be the longest distance the belt will ever need to stretch too. Adjust it at that point and don't worry about how loose it is when you let the rear shocks loose !
This might be a reason...I helped a friend of mine change the belt on his (RK I think)that had about 50K miles. We used my stand and had to remove the primary case the clutch the rear swing arm. Took half a day!Also since the 6th gear is almost useless while cursing down the slab at anything but flat road and less than 85 mph he looked into changing the ratio to something low enough to make top gear useful but the cost of new sprockets gave him pause and he passed.If you do your own maintence its a factor to consider.
posted before, one guys opinion, so take it as it is.....http://www.jamesrussellpublishing.biz/sportster1200.html
Quote"No, actually it's not. The fact that the BT's are set-up that way has nothing to do with whether or not a belt NEEDS to be set up that way (see the Sportster with the right side drive belt instead of the left/primary setup on the BTs).And you probably will never NEED a sprocket, that's why costs are high, because they don't generally need to be replaced or swapped. I have no problem with the ratios in my RK. "I don't really understand that. Pulling what I described was required for changing the belt. Also if you change the ratio then you have to get a custom sprocket,(probably the rear) and chances are a custom length belt. I don't want to start a debate about the merits of the system, just explaining what we had to do to change the belt and demonstrate why a chain isn't all that bad. Anybody that changes the belt like I have described should really have some mechanical ability as well.As far for the 6th gear, I have ridden the machine and it would not pull 80 mph up slope on the slab without down shifting to 5th and he many times runs in 5th at 80 which gives him better mileage. (operation mostly at 4,000+ above MSL out west.)That is why he looked into changing the rear ratio. This machine is in good nick and has good power.
"No, actually it's not. The fact that the BT's are set-up that way has nothing to do with whether or not a belt NEEDS to be set up that way (see the Sportster with the right side drive belt instead of the left/primary setup on the BTs).And you probably will never NEED a sprocket, that's why costs are high, because they don't generally need to be replaced or swapped. I have no problem with the ratios in my RK. "
No my post was to answer the question "why does Honda still use chains My answer "This could be one reason"Had nothing to do with debate on chains v/s belts.
I'll take that to mean the consumer?Well my guess is that only real enthusiast really pay much attention or care what kind of final drive system the machines have.We gear head types will always debate the merits of each .Given the choice?? Depending on the foreseen use/configuration/climate, I would prefer a chain drive. Efficient and inexpensive. Having said that though, I'm stuck in the middle with you guys it seems.:-)
I had a 2006 1200R. Gas mileage should not be an issue. Tank range could be an issue. I had a 1991 1200. After mods it could get down to a 50 mile range if you rode in anger. 2006 1200 got a consistent 40+ mpg. It had great brakes compared to my GSPD. The brakes on mine were very good . Rear shocks were the absolute worst examples of any bike that I ever owned. Honda 90 had better rear shocks. The seat is really thin. I had the world's loudest exhaust. Quiet is better.I had a quick release windshield. It's a great bike except for the rear shocks and seat.
Thanks for posting.I figured tank range would be an issue. I had a sportbike with a small tank and an appetite for fuel. That was one reason I sold it. I figure there are bigger tanks available if range becomes an issue.In my 1.5 hours of ride time so far I found the rear shocks not as bad as I thought they would be, but yeah, they're cheapies.Surprised at the engines ability to rev. It's easier to blip for a downshift than on my Mille. Must have a lighter flywheel. But then the Titanic had a lighter flywheel than the goose.Took awhile to acclimatize, I began by driving it like a guzzi - revs and working the gearbox. Bad effect. I was gnashing gears all over the place. Better now.Since I don't yet have a service manual, can anyone tell me if there should be free play at the clutch lever? Mine has zero free play, clutch works well though. Owners manual has no info on that. Lube cable or no? It's a mighty pull.And how's the Clymer service manual for the 2004 and up Sportsters? Good enough or invest in Factory $ervice manual? I wont be overhauling, just all regular maint.
My 04 1200R. Long gone.
I bought this bike from Shorty (seems I buy something from him every few years) ..I really liked it but did seem to have a vibration...didn't keep it long enough to figure it out but would buy another rubber mount Sporty (and I have)...