NGC - double side swingarm with chain drive

[ohiorider]

I've never had an issue with brake drag after removing and reinstalling a wheel on a double sided swingarm with chain final drive ..... until now!

Needed a new back tire on my 2014 CB1100, so I pulled the wheel, took it to my favorite independent shop for a new BT54 Bridgestone, and remounted the wheel (after much cursing.)

Not sure what I've caused, but I'm experiencing brake drag as rotor got quite warm after a very short shake down.

The rear axle uses one long and one short "top hat" spacer to position the wheel and rotor (thanks, Dusty, for introducing me to that term.)  It is hard to imagine that if I'd switched spacers from side to side, I could even have mounted the rear wheel and brake assembly.

Not really asking for help here, just relating a situation (unless there's a CB1100 owner on the forum who's been through a similar situation.)  Just thinking how much more I now appreciate the single side swingarm with lug nut mounted rear wheel design on both my 1200 Sport and BMW R100GS.

I've owned two chain drive bikes with double sided swingarm within the past 15 years (W650 and Triumph T100) but neither ever had me scratching my head like the brake caliper issue I'm experiencing with the Honda.

Oh well, the Beemer is running well, as is the 12S.  I'm not without a ride.  So, first cool garage day, I'll take another run at it.

Bob

[Madtownguzzi]

Here is the rear wheel parts diagram for spacer orientation.

https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/52f28bf9f870021404ec5a3f/rear-wheel

[ohiorider]

Here is the rear wheel parts diagram for spacer orientation.

https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/52f28bf9f870021404ec5a3f/rear-wheel

Thanks for the diagram, Randy.

Bob

[Huzo]

My first thought is this..
We all know that the pads should retract far enough to provide adequate clearance from the disc when the pedal is released.
I will guess that there is a single piston acting on EACH pad but there may be two, it won’t change my hypothesis. I’m theorising that when you’ve replaced the wheel and adjusted the chain, the disc is not aligned perfectly with the pad face and won’t be until a few thou’ has been taken from the leading and trailing edges of the appropriate pad/s.
You may also have a slightly sticking piston and the pad has worn to accomodate this effect, the pad will always wear to become flat with the disc surface, until such time as you re-adjust the chain and the disc is no longer mating perfectly with the pad.
Here’s what I’d do...
Take the caliper off and remove the pads and shim.
Manually retract all of the pistons and clamp all but one of them in the fully retracted position.
(Don’t overflow the m/c)
Pump the pedal and witness the free piston moving full stroke.
Manually retract that piston by hand.
Repeat this with the remaining one/s.
Ensure that the pistons move freely and are able to be retracted by hand pressure individually.
Clean the pads and reinstall with the shim in place.
That’ll do it.