Very heavy clutch - Griso

[Trogladyte]

The clutch has always been heavy on my 08 8v Griso. My muscles have developed to deal with it. But I think it is getting worse, and I'm starting to get some drag.

The bike has previously sheared two clutch levers, and I'm wondering if the third is about to go, or whether I could be getting wear in the bushing the lever pivots on.

Any thoughts on why it is so heavy, and what I can do about current symptoms? I'd sooner not be buying a new master cylinder if i can help it.

[guzzisteve]

Unfortunately, sometimes you must spend money to keep a bike maintained. I suggest both master and the slave taken off cleaned and a new oring.  Then, don't forget to measure the rod for length. If you buy a master go up a grade where you can get a rebuild kit.

[Kiwi_Roy]

The Griso has a hydraulic clutch, my 2007 doesn't seem heavy at all.

[80CX100]

Have you bled the system lately and changed the fluid?

I had read that for whatever reason, the Griso clutch fluid turned nasty very quickly and needed to be bled regularly and changed often; so I bled mine this spring and changed the fluid

When I bled the clutch on my Griso(2007 1100), the first couple of purges of fluid had a bunch of nasty black bits in the fluid, took a few purges before the fluid ran clean; maybe it's possible over time with enough debris in the fluid, that one of the little orifices in your clutch m/c & line has become plugged, causing the heaviness.

fwiw ymmv

Kelly

[Kiwi_Roy]

Have you bled the system lately and changed the fluid?

I had read that for whatever reason, the Griso clutch fluid turned nasty very quickly and needed to be bled regularly and changed often; so I bled mine this spring and changed the fluid

When I bled the clutch on my Griso(2007 1100), the first couple of purges of fluid had a bunch of nasty black bits in the fluid, took a few purges before the fluid ran clean; maybe it's possible over time with enough debris in the fluid, that one of the little orifices in your clutch m/c & line has become plugged, causing the heaviness.

fwiw ymmv

Kelly

I am guilty of ignoring this on mine.
Isn't there a special bleeding hose tucked under the seat?
Perhaps list your procedure.
Thanks
Roy

[guzzisteve]

Most all bikes I have serviced over the years have the brake fluid changed every year. OR you could look at a manual for big service or small service.

[pebra]

I, too, find the clutch on my 2009 Griso heavy.
Also after changing the fluid.
I also don't think inserting the missing push bearing helped much, but at least the clutch now functions properly!
I am considering changing the master cylinder. Riding in stop-go traffic is sucha PIA now.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Ok I went to the garage
My 72 Eldorado and new V7iii both required two fingers to pull in their cable operated clutch levers.
But my 07 Griso could easily be operated one finger and unlike the two cable clutches was very smooth.

[Trogladyte]

I changed the fluid at the last service, which was nearly a year ago, so no, I haven't bled it recently. I'll give it a go.

Which O ring do I need to check/change?

[pete roper]

Early 8V clutches were really heavy. They got progressively better over time with one change in early 2010 and then the supercession to the last version used in the Cali 14 in 2013. I'd have to say I've never had one that had a pull so strong that it destroyed levers and pivots! That sounds pretty out there!

As Steve suggested it sounds like it might have a problem with the pushrod length and at one point there was a tech bulletin about adding an extra thrust bearing. That really seemed odd to me as adding an extra bearing won't reduce the load the bearings experience, simply halve the speed at which they spin. Perhaps the purpose was to add more length to the mechanism? But if that was the case why not just use a different pushrod? There is a choice of four after all.

Anyway, if the problem persists and/or becomes unbearable I'd just bung a new, 1400, clutch in it and be done with it.

Certainly CARC bikes are for some reason murder on their clutch fluid. No idea why but we nowadays bleed the system every service at 10,000km.

Pete

[Wayne Orwig]

My 2007 Stelvio had a very heavy clutch. I kept the lever lubed and it STILL wore out the pivot. It also got a few fluid changes. Newer Stelvios had a much lighter clutch. No idea what the reason was.
 

[pete roper]

Different diaphragm I believe.

[80CX100]

I am guilty of ignoring this on mine.
Isn't there a special bleeding hose tucked under the seat?
Perhaps list your procedure.
Thanks
Roy

     Hey Roy,     I agree with your other post, I've always found the pull on my 2007 Griso 1100 clutch, to be nice and light.

     Yes there is a clutch bleeder port plumbed into the end of a steel braided line located under the seat/left frame rail just above and behind the side cover.

     I popped the rubber cap off and pried the grommet locating the fitting on the slotted frame tab loose so I had better access.

     Larger wrench to hold the fitting and a smaller wrench to work the bleeder valve, just like bleeding brakes.

     Clear vinyl tubing from the bleeder valve draining to a well secured container.

     Loosen the cover for the clutch fluid reservoir.

     I use lots of rags & paper towels covering the area to catch any brake fluid drips,,, it is murder on paint.

     Pull and hold the clutch lever in, loosen the bleeder valve, once the fluid stops flowing,,,tighten the bleeder valve,,,

     Repeat as necessary, add fluid as needed to ensure that the reservoir fluid is always high enough to keep air out of the system.

     I probably flushed 2-3 reservoirs worth of fluid through the system, out with the old & in with the new.

     To the OP, I agree with Pete, something isn't quite plumb if you're snapping levers,,, I'm not familiar with the bottom end of the clutch lever assembly on the CARC bikes, but is it possible that road grit/corrosion has seized the clutch lever mechanism down at the tranny end?

    Good luck with it

    Kelly   

[pete roper]

Clutch on the 8V's is entirely different to the one on the earlier machines which use the final iteration of the venerable twin plater. They, (The earlier hydraulic clutch models, V11 and CARC.) are still murder on their clutch fluid though. As I said, no idea why.

Pete

[Huzo]

My Norge, like all similar units will foul it’s fluid if you look sideways at it.
I change EVERY fluid at 20,000 k intervals (and engine/drive train every 10,000).
Point is, you’d reckon that the only contaminant that could conceivably foul the stuff is degeneration of the seals..?
When I do the clutch fluid change, and this will be the ninth time, I note that the black residue present in the m/c reservoir, has a feel like extremely fine granulated black shit.
Not unlike finely ground black pepper...
Only thing that shoots my theory in the foot, is the brake fluid gets more opaque and a bit murky, but nothing like the clutch stuff.
Maybe the clutch fluid in the slave, takes on the heat of the engine and the entire volume operates at a higher temp...?

[Trogladyte]

 When you talk about the push-rod, do you mean the rod that operates the master cylinder? I seem to recall that it is adjustable and secured with a grub screw, or am I remembering a different bike? I was just wondering if my problems (well, the dragging, anyway) might be due to that grub screw being loose, and the rod having shortened it's reach through vibration. Is that possible? in any case I will have a look, as I am currently unable to get neutral at a standstill, and am becoming highly skilled at snicking it in before I come to a halt.

I was a boy scout, so I am currently riding round with a spare lever just in case. Once bitten etc.

[guzzisteve]

You can't get an oring for the slave on back of tranny. Have to get the whole thing.
The rod is behind it and throwout bearing, it activates the clutch, they have different lengths.