Adjusting screw on Trans Clutch Lever Options?

[Tom H]

Is there a reason that you can't just use a grade ?? bolt in the trans clutch lever instead of the flat ended one that you have to make a wrench to hold while you tighten the lock nut?

I just installed the SD Tech clutch set. I slipped the trans on and then was done for the day so I have yet to play with the adjustment. There is now a lot of play that I need to adjust out. I DID expect this to happen.

I have read about using a bearing, extra throw out bearing washer, dual O ring outer body, ect. Why not just change out the flat tip screw to a bolt, set screw or the like? Is the original specially hardened? I need to take a look at how much room there is, but a hex head bolt seems like it would make any adjustments easier.

Tom

[Old Jock]

Only thing that springs to mind is the slot screw can be adjusted a little more into the locking nut and I find the slot grub screw easier to adjust than to get a wrench in there. Well 2 wrenches you need one for the locknut as well. The setup reminds me of adusting the tappets

It just pushes on the rod in the box, usually as long as you have slack cable at the bar and can get the clutch to operate properly it should be fine

That said I've never tried replacing it with something else as that screw very rarely needs to be adjusted, although it is a PIA to get to if you need.

If the arm is loose at the rod it's not a biggie as far as I'm concerned. There are warnings that all sorts of dire things will happen if there isn't a gap, but I just make sure the arm isn't loaded onto the pushrod.

My bikes don't do so many miles I admit, but I've ran bikes for god knows how many 1000s of miles without the spring that pushes the arm back as it has a tendency to fall out and never had any issues, as long as the arm isn't loading the pushrod

John

[pehayes]

1: The old smallblocks use a similar screw which has a recessed Allen hex.  Very  tight to the swingarm so it requires cutting off a part of an Allen wrench to get access.  Likely that screw is the same thread dimension as the big block and could perhaps substitute.  I haven't checked that.

2: I recently asked Charlie Mullendore (thanks!) to get me some measurements of the screw's flat tip so that I could fabricate a tool.  The flat tip is 0.1259" across by 0.2539 long.  Close enough to 1/8" X 1/4".  No, it is NOT the same dimension as the valve adjuster and so the valve tool won't work here.

3: Here is the tool I fabricated.  I have a mill but it could be made just as easily with a hand file.  Just find a file that is 1/8" thick.



4: I don't see any purpose for going at the screw with two tools simultaneously.  Take the screw out completely and make sure that the lock nut rotates very freely on the screw.  Maybe run a tap through the nut if it has some binding tendency.  Lubricate and reinstall.  Adjust the screw to about where you want it.  Have someone squeeze the handle to add tension to the screw.  Now run in and secure the lock nut.  Yes, locking the nut may 'drag' the screw inward for a quarter-turn or so.  So, just start with the screw further outward by a quarter turn or so.  No need to be precise as you have further, more-sensitive  adjuster at the hand lever.

5:  The adjustment at the transmission lever arm is much more crude than the adjustment at the hand lever.  The pivot-to-lever-arm ratios are much different; perhaps 5:1.  Just a little at the transmission goes a long way at the hand end.

6: Yes, the SD-Tec plates are  thicker.  Reportedly each plate by 0.4mm thicker than stock.  That causes lots of change to the various adjusters.

7: The original throwout bearing was a 3-piece affair.  The common replacements are 2-piece.  YMMV, but I don't like the new ones.  I have had them bind twice which causes the outer body to spin which causes the adjuster screw to spin and back out.  Suddenly you have NO clutch and you just installed new parts.  I found a vendor who  has the original 3-piece bearings and I'm sticking with those.

8:  I can't see how one would lose the lever arm return spring unless you break a cable.  The system should always be under some amount of compression at this spring and no forces to make it go flying as long as the cable is in place.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[SPScottNT]

Where are you sourcing the three piece bearing?

7: The original throwout bearing was a 3-piece affair.  The common replacements are 2-piece.  YMMV, but I don't like the new ones.  I have had them bind twice which causes the outer body to spin which causes the adjuster screw to spin and back out.  Suddenly you have NO clutch and you just installed new parts.  I found a vendor who  has the original 3-piece bearings and I'm sticking with those.


Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Tom H]

"4: I don't see any purpose for going at the screw with two tools simultaneously.  Take the screw out completely and make sure that the lock nut rotates very freely on the screw.  Maybe run a tap through the nut if it has some binding tendency.  Lubricate and reinstall.  Adjust the screw to about where you want it.  Have someone squeeze the handle to add tension to the screw.  Now run in and secure the lock nut.  Yes, locking the nut may 'drag' the screw inward for a quarter-turn or so.  So, just start with the screw further outward by a quarter turn or so.  No need to be precise as you have further, more-sensitive  adjuster at the hand lever."


That is what I have done in the past, leave the screw out 1/4 turn and the lock nut would make the change. Not always though, normally when you don't want it to.

I made a tool similar to what you have. I used a thick Dremel cut off wheel.

I'll be working on the adjustment latter today and see what happens.

Thank you,
Tom

[pehayes]

Where are you sourcing the three piece bearing?

AF1 in Texas.  Two arrived FedEx today.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Tom H]

Adjustment done. Where the flat starts is just barely in the lock nut, all should be good. Plenty of adjustment for when the plates wear.

Thanks again,
Tom