Spoke / Nipple Noob

[Dirk_S]

I have corroded spoke nipples, and it’s taking some effort for me to figure out what size aftermarket nipples and spokes to get for my V7II. How do I know what size to purchase? I assume motorcycles don’t all have the same gauge. I’ve had a couple other bikes that were spoked, but this is the first bike in which I actually paid any attention to them (in the process of converting to tubeless).

[bodine99]

Buchanan Wheel & Spoke www.buchananspokes. com

[SED]

The short answer - to get the right part the first time you will probably have to remove a nipple and send it to Buchannan or Central Wheel in the UK or some other supplier.  Probably worth calling first to confirm.  You may be able to find an old school bike shop near you that has a stash of spokes and nipples and can find something to match.

Old Guzzi parts books list part numbers for spokes and nipples - maybe also in the new parts books? 

You can measure the diameter of a nipple and spoke with calipers.  Italian made spokes and nipples will be metric.  American and British nipple diameters will be measured in inches - like 0.250" or 0.300".  Brit and American spokes will use some version of wire gauge.  And some spokes are "butted" in that the ends are thicker (larger diameter) than the center section.  You can find British and American wire gauge tables online.  I've got no experience with Japanese.

Threads may be difficult to determine because they are rolled threads rather than cut, so the thread OD is larger than the spoke OD and therefore, don't seem to conform to standard fastener threads (but not certain!). Metric threads seem to be based on the spoke OD and thread pitch such as 0.7 mm thread.  A common British spoke thread for old bikes is 40tpi - which approximates 9/64 x 40 (or 6-40).

Spoke lengths vary and it is (or was) common to have different length spokes on different sides of the wheel.  Angle of the head can be different side to side or inner and outer on one side. 

To replace spokes you should probably remove an inner and outer from both sides (and both wheels if they are different) and send them and the nipples to Buchanan or other supplier. 

For more info check this - but it is CRAZY detailed.  Also, note that he has converted inch gauges to metric approximations - not exact.
http://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/wheel/spokes/

Another option - bronze wool polishes rusty chrome without scratching, then seal with linseed oil that dries or some other rust preventer.

[John A]

Good info Sed.  I’d add that raw linseed oil doesn’t dry, boiled linseed oil dries. I’ve not tried it for chrome, I thought it would be hazy. Typical use would be refinishing a gunstock , use raw first then boiled.  That way if it gets scratched, it won’t show.  Either will burn your shop down if used rags are not kept in airtight containers because they will ignite on their own.  I use wax on bronze wool or fine steel wool for chrome.  Takes off the corrosion and protects at the same time.

[SED]

Good info Sed.  I’d add that raw linseed oil doesn’t dry, boiled linseed oil dries. I’ve not tried it for chrome, I thought it would be hazy. Typical use would be refinishing a gunstock , use raw first then boiled.  That way if it gets scratched, it won’t show.  Either will burn your shop down if used rags are not kept in airtight containers because they will ignite on their own.  I use wax on bronze wool or fine steel wool for chrome.  Takes off the corrosion and protects at the same time.

Thanks John, didn't know that raw linsee oil wouldn't dry.  And good reminder - the rags are a real concern.  I've been using 1 paper towel at a time and then setting it away from everything to dry completely.

I'm using linseed oil to protect the black oxide finish on fasteners on my rebuild so it is what's on my mind.  It was a common finish on tools and fasteners up until WWII and probably lasts longer than wax in the weather.  Bicycle wheel builders traditionally used linseed oil to lube spoke nipples when lacing wheels.