Installing Outdoor Outlet Help?

[Bpreynolds2]

Hey guys, this is an electrical connection box outside our home near our pavilion that I’d like to install an exterior outlet from or on per se.  I’m not remotely an electrician but I can generally do basic wire to wire stuff and so forth.  Let me try to explain the photos below.  This is the box that contains both the 220 line that runs to the garage and is wired in directly to the 220 joist mounted heater I have out there, and also the box containing the basic line to feed outlets, lights, etc. in the garage.  This box is where the lines com from inside the house, connect here, then run undergroun out to the garage.  The 220 line, I believe, is the orange encased line coming out of the wall on the left, the standard line coming out of the wall on the right.  So.  I’d like to install an exterior outlet here and asking what I’d need to do.  That might be “call the electrician”  but I have done some basic wiring and such so might try it myself.  I directly wired the garage heater to the line and I’ve done other small jobs too.  These were simple, however, just connecting the right wires and such.  This “might” be more involved than just connecting an exterior outlet and mounting properly?  Not sure. 
1) First, would I want to run the exterior outlet off the standard line, or run it off the 220 line?  The outlet here will not feed anything heavy nor anything that would require a 220, so I assume the standard line?
2) Is there a way to mount or incorporate the box shown as the box for the outlet too or will I need to look at some kind of other setup? 
3) I notice the 220 line has maybe (?) a ground wire that is not connected anything and just has a red cap on it.  Is this okay?  Years ago I hired a retired electrician to install the 220 for the heater and he did this, just making sure that is okay relatively speaking.
Any help much appreciated. 

[Lannis]

I wired my home and my shop, using guidance from books, the building inspector, and my uncle the maintenance guy, and it all went well.

I can say that I NEVER left a circuit or connection ungrounded, or a ground wire hanging in the air capped off.   I'd like to hear from someone who knows, if that's ever appropriate ... Codes have changed over the years.   I wired my electric oven strictly to code in 1992, but when I replaced it in 2019, everything had changed and there was an extra wire needed to be connected that wasn't required or even allowed for in 1992.

Lannis

[Guzzistajohn]

Probably an app for that too 

[Rough Edge racing]

 I was a licensed three phase master  electrican with years of experience. I didn't do residential work but know the code as it was 10 years ago when I retired.The code basics remain the same, changes are added as new material and equipment is introduced.Or when reports of trouble require changes........It's not legal to tap off a 240 volt circuit that is a dedicated line to a motor or the like even if it's 15 or 20 amp...If you have a 15 or 20 amp 120 volt circuit in that box you can tap it for an outlet provided it's not a true dedicated circuit..You need mount a plastic single gang  FS box ,connect it to the bigger box with the easiest weathertite method. That would be  1/2" PVC conduit pipe and connectors and using proper wire size ...Install a GFI receptacle with a weather tite cover or an in use cover if a cord will be plugged in all the time.
 You need to make sure the grounding wires are properly terminated from that large box to the panelboard and other locations. If the basic info I mentioned here is not enough, you should get help in person from someone with experience...
  You can cheat if you want, I won't  blow you in, lol.....And turn off the power before drilling into the box.....

[fotoguzzi]

I know nothing about house wiring but that capped ground wire looks so wrong to me.. probably dd so because the outlet box is plastic?

[Rough Edge racing]

I know nothing about house wiring but that capped ground wire looks so wrong to me.. probably dd so because the outlet box is plastic?

If a device wired through that box requires grounding, it has to grounded back to the panel one way or another. The plastic box itself doesn't require bonding to the ground because it's non conductive as you say....
 The grounding wire does not carry current.Simply, it's purpose is to prevent any conductive electrical parts of the system or devices it supplies from becoming an electrical shock potential.If the system current does touch grounded parts it causes a short circuit ,tripping the branch circuit breaker or fuse.

[Bpreynolds2]

Thank you all for input.  I probably should have prioritized these things just a little better.  The open ground wire On the 220/240 is a concern but it’s been nigh on 5 years now with HEAVY use on that line via the garage heater only; haven’t had an issue yet and while that’s not the best reason to do nothing about it, I am more focused on how to get an exterior outlet from this box associated with the standard line.  But honestly, after getting some advice on here - thank you RER - I may just get someone local to do this if it can be done without too great an expense.  Like an idiot, I was hoping there was some kind of cover for that box that would accommodate an outlet and just get everything in there without having to use new pipe, separate box, etc.  With a new box, new piping, new cutting, and so forth you start getting into work I’m not much good at and would likely take me 5 times as long and likely FAR less code even.

[Rough Edge racing]

BP, that's a 4x4 or 6x6 box? Ok, what I would do if it were mine and not preaching absolute code qualifications..... You can use a plastic box fitted with a rain tire cover attached to the big  box cover. Attach the box to cover with a few short screws and nuts. Use a sealer between the box and cover.Drill a hole to pass the wires through...it should be a 7/8 hole with a bushing in a perfect world, but at the minimum remove  any burrs...You can totally fabricate it on a bench and then just make the connections to a 120 volt circuit and screw on the cover.
  Inspectors frown on this kind of stuff..But it does meet the spirit of the codes and if done properly, won't present a hazard....

[Mike Tashjian]

That is as simple of a wiring job as you can get.  The 240 volt wiring can just be left alone. Figure your electrician left that ground wire in case you needed it in the future for a four wire 240 outlet.  The add on 120 volt line can just be wire nutted to the existing 120 volt wires.  Any big box store will sell you the box, outlet and cover.  Drilling a plastic box and using a connector between them is not going to be hard to do.  Just shut both circuits off before working on any wiring and verify they are off with a non contact tester or VOM. 

[sickora]

That is as simple of a wiring job as you can get.  The 240 volt wiring can just be left alone. Figure your electrician left that ground wire in case you needed it in the future for a four wire 240 outlet.  The add on 120 volt line can just be wire nutted to the existing 120 volt wires.  Any big box store will sell you the box, outlet and cover.  Drilling a plastic box and using a connector between them is not going to be hard to do.  Just shut both circuits off before working on any wiring and verify they are off with a non contact tester or VOM.

I agree with Mike.  You'd want to buy 4 items, 1)outlet box/cover 2) the outlet (preferably GFCI) 3) a very short piece of conduit 4) romex wire 14/2, rated for outdoor use. decide how far apart you want the existing box and new outlet, and buy the appropriate size conduit and wire length.

Then as Mike says, ignore the 240,  wire the new romex to the existing 120 volt.  feed it outside the box via the conduit into the new box. Wire into the outlet, mount and your done.  You could seal around the conduit for extra caution.  In total this should be <$50.  Here is an idea for the outlet and cover.  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Dot-1-Gang-GFCI-Weatherproof-Non-Metallic-Electrical-Box-Cover-Kit-S355P/204193191

[Bpreynolds2]

Ok, well maybe I will give this a shot.  Thanks so much for the “steps” RER.  Stupid question number 1 of many likely to follow, if I cut into the current bot to run out, what do you use to cut that plastic?  See?  You sure I should attempt this?   

[sickora]

Ok, well maybe I will give this a shot.  Thanks so much for the “steps” RER.  Stupid question number 1 of many likely to follow, if I cut into the current bot to run out, what do you use to cut that plastic?  See?  You sure I should attempt this?   

Most boxes have knockouts on the side/bottom.  I'd look for one of those and use a razor or flat head screw driver.  If it doesn't,  a razor may still work depending on how thick the box is. or a small hole bit for a drill, if you have that.  also,  make sure the conduit you get will fit into the holes if it does have have.  The new box you get should have them also.

Oh, and I may have forgotten to add, but absolutely flip the appropriate circuit breakers before you start any of this. If you don't have a multi-meter or non-contact tester and aren't 100% sure which ones, then just kill power to your entire house. Better safe than sorry.

[Lannis]

Oh, and I may have forgotten to add, but absolutely flip the appropriate circuit breakers before you start any of this. If you don't have a multi-meter or non-contact tester and aren't 100% sure which ones, then just kill power to your entire house. Better safe than sorry.

Absolutely use the meter, or cut the whole house off.   I've seen wiring jobs in houses I've bought with 3 separate circuits running into the same box, and you'd never guess it.....

Lannis

[Rough Edge racing]

Most boxes have knockouts on the side/bottom.  I'd look for one of those and use a razor or flat head screw driver.  If it doesn't,  a razor may still work depending on how thick the box is. or a small hole bit for a drill, if you have that.  also,  make sure the conduit you get will fit into the holes if it does have have.  The new box you get should have them also.

Oh, and I may have forgotten to add, but absolutely flip the appropriate circuit breakers before you start any of this. If you don't have a multi-meter or non-contact tester and aren't 100% sure which ones, then just kill power to your entire house. Better safe than sorry.

That type box will have no knock outs. You cannot cut  through  the box with a razor or easily poke a screw driver though it....A drill motor and bit required....You need a connector for conduit ,you just dont jab it in a hole, but you can for a down and dirty job. If using  UF cable , Romex will go to crap outdoors, a connector is supposed to be used but  you can omit the connector and use sealer around the cable entry if it makes it easier.

[Bpreynolds2]

Oh, and I may have forgotten to add, but absolutely flip the appropriate circuit breakers before you start any of this. If you don't have a multi-meter or non-contact tester and aren't 100% sure which ones, then just kill power to your entire house. Better safe than sorry.

Much appreciate the word of caution.  I have already tested both breakers associated with the standard line to the garage and the other line in the box for the 220/240.  With both breakers off, nothing in the garage works so I feel kinda secure in that.  Not that it matters but the box pictured is a 4”x4” box.  I do have a small rotary tool that has been effective cutting some small grade plastic, might use that if I must do any cutting.  Stupid question number 2, I assume I’ll need a special bit to drill into the brick for mounting new outlet box?

[Lannis]

Much appreciate the word of caution.  I have already tested both breakers associated with the standard line to the garage and the other line in the box for the 220/240.  With both breakers off, nothing in the garage works so I feel kinda secure in that.  Not that it matters but the box pictured is a 4”x4” box.  I do have a small rotary tool that has been effective cutting some small grade plastic, might use that if I must do any cutting.  Stupid question number 2, I assume I’ll need a special bit to drill into the brick for mounting new outlet box?

Yes, a hardened masonry bit, they're at any hardware store.   There are special bolts that will screw right into the hole, or you can use any of many types of inserts to put into the hole for the fastener; or drill the hole in the brick, whittle a wooden plug, tap it in, and use a standard wood screw.

Lannis

[Bpreynolds2]

Yes, a hardened masonry bit, they're at any hardware store.   There are special bolts that will screw right into the hole, or you can use any of many types of inserts to put into the hole for the fastener; or drill the hole in the brick, whittle a wooden plug, tap it in, and use a standard wood screw.

Lannis

Much thanks.  Got all parts today with exception of mounting hardware. 

[Bpreynolds2]

Updating this thread here.  You guys are the best.  Never would have done or attempted this myself without the input here.  No offense, I’ve learned more on my own than I’ve learned from you fellas here about motorcycles  but I’ve learned far more valuable things from ya on this board that have nothing to do with bikes.   

[oldbike54]

 Well , you're still posting , so...

 Dusty

[Rough Edge racing]

Lookie at that, sealtite with the proper connectors an an in use cover....

[Bpreynolds2]

Lookie at that, sealtite with the proper connectors an an in use cover....

Much thanks to you!  That is the kit you suggested.

Well , you're still posting , so...

 Dusty

Can’t quit now.  When I came back I’d have to be Bpreynolds3 and that’s just getting too ridiculous though I do think Thurston Howell III was a great name