(Help me out here) '98 EV1100 front master cylinder rebuild

[maquette]

I put new pads in my EV and the front master cylinder also needs rebuilt. I've never done one and I'm wondering how you remove all the spacers/retainers/ washers or whatever they are called and do you just install the new ones by pushing them in by hand? Here's a pic of the rebuild kit from MG Cycle and it shoes the parts I'm referring to.

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_112&products_id=2709

Be gentle, I only plan to do this once. :>)

[wirespokes]

I put new pads in my EV and the front master cylinder also needs rebuilt.

What's the problem that requires rebuilding it?

[maquette]

What's the problem that requires rebuilding it?

We can't get any fluid to the bleed off valve at the caliper, just air.

[guzzisteve]

I use a nail in the hole at banjo and knock it out the big end.  After cleaning assemble w/stacked plunger & lock ring is held in a divot no snapring. I use a deepwell socket to knock it back in, bang it home as you have piston compressed a bit.  It's covered in all the manuals, too. Pretty much always been the same.

[maquette]

I use a nail in the hole at banjo and knock it out the big end.  After cleaning assemble w/stacked plunger & lock ring is held in a divot no snapring. I use a deepwell socket to knock it back in, bang it home as you have piston compressed a bit.  It's covered in all the manuals, too. Pretty much always been the same.

Thanks Steve. Of course I can't find my shop manual, but I understand. I just ordered the rebuild kit and we'll go from there. 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I looked in the EV shop manual and rebuilding the master cylinders isn't covered, that I can see.

[maquette]

I looked in the EV shop manual and rebuilding the master cylinders isn't covered, that I can see.

At least you can find your manual Charlie! Wth Steve's guidance and looking at the rebuild kit at MG Cycle it seems pretty straightforward. There are two small holes in the bottom of the master cylinder and I think one of them is plugged up. With all the little parts removed it seems you should be able to get a welding rod cleaner, or something similar, up in there to clean out any crusty stuff that is blocking the fluid from pumping down to the caliper. I'll let you know what I find and if it all works out.

[guzzisteve]

It is very similar to earlier versions on Tonti's.  I use a gun brush to clean out bore. The lockring has a curved surface that matches the curve on the rubber it sits against, very important to look at parts w/knock them out. Same style except for size as the Sport and other models around that time.

Edit       I looked in a hole bunch of manuals and no exploited view like the SP/G5 1000 book. Not that I could find.

[maquette]

OK, I finished the master cylinder rebuild and cleaned out the two holes in the bottom of the resevoir (they were both plugged). I found out that I also had a small leak in the brake line and bought one (used) from Pinwall Cycle in Ohio. It was from a 2001 EV and fits, but you need a banjo bolt at both the MC end and the caliper end. Took the banjo bolt off my '79 1000 SP's rear MC because I didn't want to wait. That worked. All is well now and I learned some things with help. Thanks for the input from members.

This forum and it's members are a great asset for someone like myself.