HELP, THE BEAST is dead...

[Niels Knudsen]

An other dead Beast!!!
A month ago the Beast started running bad, frequent hick-ups and at little loss of power.I thought it may be a belt, that was loose and had jumped a tooth. So I did the usual belt tensioning and so on. By stretching the belts, one cracked, thank god I wasn’t driving. Two new belts on, left TDC – lose valves OK, turned 270 o right TDC – lose valves. But no difference. TPS adjusted to 150 mV, throttlehouses balanced. No difference.
My MG-mechanic ( in the Guru-level) meant, that there might was water in petrol/tank. Advised me to put water-removing additive in tank (Bell-Add.) Drive tank empty 3 times, refill and Bell-Add. No difference.

I then wanted to see how much water was in the tank, so tank off bike, emptied it in cannister, and I then discovered lots of slilicon-like flakes app 10 x 10 x 3 mm. More then a handful out of tank.
My MG-guru explained, that because the tank is made of glassfiber, some had made a silicon-based tanksealing, so alcohol in gasoline could not evapourate through tank and destroy paint.
Now in Denmark we have so much alcohol in gasoline, so the siliconbased tanksealer diluted into flakes and clogged the gasoline-stream.
Tank flushed several times with acetone removing old sealer completely. New epoxy-based and alcoholresistent tanksealer applied. New fuel-filter on.
Then another startup, but only running on one cylinder. Belts off, cams checked, belts on. Now no  start at all. Fine sparks on plugs.
Gas-pump OK, press app up til 40 psi. Presseure-tank-valve OK opens at app 35 psi. Fuel all the way from out of tank, fuelpump, fuelfilter and to pressure tank-valve.
Injectors off and cleaned, opens/clicks when voltage of 9 volts battery is applied. Injectors back in houses, ignition on, fulepump primes, 9 volts applied, to connectors on injectors, thin ray of fuel streams into body.
Connectors back on injectors, ignition on, no fuel ray, trying start up, no ray from injectors. Voltage in connectors tested, primary 10,4 volt, 10,4 volt on cranking. Resistance in injectors app. 30 ohm. Connection from connector to ECU-connector OK. Injectors connected, ECU-connector is app 30 ohm on injector-pins and ground.
Two other ECUs, MW IAW 16M applied, no spray.
Other injectors applied, no spray.
Now I cant see other possibilities, HELP NEEDED.

THX in advance from DK,


Niels.

[GeorgiaGuzzi]

Some really good info from Kiwi Roy and others in this thread. I’m going to be chasing the issue down in earnest in two weeks.

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=106829.0

Also, could the fuel regulator be blocked up?

[Chuck in Indiana]

First, welcome to WG, Niels. It certainly looks like you have done the esoteric things. Have you made sure that fuel is flowing to the injectors? Maybe plugged with whatever was in the tank? From what you said, it sounds to me as if it is not.

[fotoguzzi]

So this is a Centauro or Daytona?

[guzzisteve]

Swap around relays & see. You covered most all of it. Don't trust 22yr old relays. Seen as you tried 2 other ECU's, what's left. Have you deleted all your 'safety' switches?

[Chuck in Indiana]

Swap around relays & see. You covered most all of it. Don't trust 22yr old relays. Seen as you tried 2 other ECU's, what's left. Have you deleted all your 'safety' switches?

But he said:

Voltage in connectors tested, primary 10,4 volt, 10,4 volt on cranking.

[JJ]

Yes...is that a Daytona or a Centauro? 

Those pieces look like Bonita fish flakes that one would put in Miso soup.  Not good...

Good luck with your repair!

[bodine99]

getting injector pulse


sweet dreams smileys
If you have a EFI bike this gizmo should be in the tool box. Hooked to the connector at 1 injector it should flash when cranking the engine if the cam sensor is telling the ECU to signal the injector

[Tusayan]

Daytonas have steel fuel tanks

[guzzisteve]

But he said:

What's left but compression, air?  Ought to run but don't. It's always something.

[Murray]

Which bike would be useful the kill switch on them used to allow the motor to crank but no spark/fuel they do fill up with road grime with time and cease to function. A blocked regulator would not stop fuel pressure building it may do the exact opposite but I wouldn't expect much to get past the fuel filter. I have seen a crank position sensor die on those things which results in a dead bike and it was an instant failure i.e. rode the bike turned off wouldn't restart and it would cause the symptoms you have as the ECU looses the reference of when to squirt and spark.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Find out if the fuel pump is running, it tells you if the critical crank position sensor is working.
Connect a small lamp to the relay that powers up the pump.
If the lamp lights up while cranking over chances are the injectors and coils are also working.
The pump always runs for a few seconds when you first turn the key on but thats nothing to do with the crank sensor.