Tips for Replacing Cylinder Base Gasket

[SmithSwede]

2013 Moto Guzzi V7 Stone small block.  111,700 miles. 

Mike Haven confirmed for me that I’ve got a mild leak of the left side cylinder base gasket.   Right one is ok.  At some point I guess I need to replace it, but I’m not in any hurry. 

I’ve never pulled a cylinder barrel before. Any tips or tricks for this job?  Seems straightforward.  Looks like I need two gaskets per cylinder.  Any hidden O-rings or other non-obvious items I’d need?

I don’t have a clamp for the rings.  Any recommendations for one that would work on the small block?

Should I just do the left side since the right isn’t leaking?   Or do the right side too on the theory it will soon leak?

Should I go ahead replace the piston rings since I’m doing this work anyway?  I’m not burning oil, and gas mileage is the same as always. 

Since I will have removed the head, should I go ahead and remove the valves and measure for wear?  Or just leave it alone?  The valve lash doesn’t change—holds adjustment for 15,000 miles or more. 

[Perazzimx14]

No need for rings clamps. If you cannot flex them with your fingers a zip tie will make short work of compressing them.

To remove the old base gasket get you some gel type aircraft paint stripper. Dob it on with a Q-tip or flux brush and let it work a few minutes then with a plastic scraper remove the big pieces and reapply the paint stripper for another round. The methylene chloride in the paint stripper makes the gasket material its bitch.

 

[malik]

I dismantled a Nevada engine (holed block), not significantly different from the V7, it was quite straightforward to remove the cylinders, and the gaskets were not glued on. Of course, a little different for you, as you will be putting it back together again. Follow the instructions in the workshop manual, you should be OK. Do let us know where the manual is deficient in its instructions. There was also a series of factory made video available for download (don't remember where now) that could be quite helpful, even if Mr White Gloves doesn't have any oil or grease on the parts he works on.

[sign216]

SmithSwede,

I recall that the Guzziology had a short section on why this leak happened, and how to fix it.  Look there.

If you can't find it, let me know I'll look it up. 

Joe

[SmithSwede]

SmithSwede,

I recall that the Guzziology had a short section on why this leak happened, and how to fix it.  Look there.

If you can't find it, let me know I'll look it up. 

Joe

Joe, I don’t know where my Guzziology is.  If you could look it up and post it that would be terrific.   Thanks.

Malik.  Yes.  I do have the Mr White Gloves videos.  He makes it look very easy.   

[moto-uno]

 Also I might suggest a compression test before starting , that could tell you if you should check the valves . If you remove the
valves for checking you're pretty much going to have to re-cut the valves and seats ! Peter

[wymple]

Don't sweat it. The smallblock is one of the easiest engines you'll ever find to do this stuff on. My lawn mower was more difficult.

[jrt]

I dismantled a Nevada engine (holed block), not significantly different from the V7, it was quite straightforward to remove the cylinders, and the gaskets were not glued on. Of course, a little different for you, as you will be putting it back together again. Follow the instructions in the workshop manual, you should be OK. Do let us know where the manual is deficient in its instructions. There was also a series of factory made video available for download (don't remember where now) that could be quite helpful, even if Mr White Gloves doesn't have any oil or grease on the parts he works on.

These here?  https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_technical_training_videos_eng.html, of course.

[Tom H]

FWIW: I use a hose clamp to compress the rigs. You just need one wide enough to cover all the rings. You want it tight enough to fully compress the rings, but still lose enough that it will slide. A quick push down on the cylinder is all it takes. If you think you didn't get all the rings in with the first push, STOP, and reset the clamp. Once you slide the cylinder down, you completely unscrew the hose clamp and sorta roll/spin it out from the piston and around the cylinder studs.

Good luck!
Tom

[sign216]

Joe, I don’t know where my Guzziology is.  If you could look it up and post it that would be terrific.   Thanks.

Malik.  Yes.  I do have the Mr White Gloves videos.  He makes it look very easy.

SmithSwede,

Give me a few day to paw through my copy of the text.  I'll let you know.

Joe

[SmithSwede]

SmithSwede,

Give me a few day to paw through my copy of the text.  I'll let you know.

Joe

No worries.  Much obliged

[sign216]

No worries.  Much obliged

SmithSwede,

I had trouble wading through Richardson's book, but I found a blurb I wrote about this issue on one of my Flickr posts:

"Head Gasket Leaks - The distance between the studs is long and the gasket web is thin, so leaks happen, especially on the outward side near the oil passage. I've solved leaks with Permatex Super 300, as recommended in Guzziology by Dave Richardson.

Take off the head, apply Super 300 to both sides of the head gasket with a little extra in the problematic bottom part, near the oil passage. Wait a short time for it get tacky, and bolt everything back up. I've had luck re-using the old gasket if it looks decent. Torque again.

Base Gasket Leak - Richardson reports that a during manufacturing a drilled stud hole can break into an oil passage, causing base gasket leaks. The fix is to clean the hole, seal stud with Loctite, and reassemble. I refer you to Guzziology for photos and details."

[SmithSwede]

Thanks.   Very helpful.