73 Eldo Generator Mounting Bolts Broken.

[cappisj1]

I stared to go through to clean and  freshen my new purchase. Everything was going so well until... I noticed the generator was loose. As soon as I removed it and could see one of the bolts missing I was nervous. The other bolt felt stripped but no, I spun the head off. Then I see both holes are filled with broken bolts.

If I can’t get these out what are my options? Engine still in the bike.

Thanks.

[Tom H]

They need to come out somehow. When out, depending on the condition of the threaded holes, just use new bolts or studs or you may need to use threaded inserts to repair the holes.

Tom

[jhem68]

Start with a good penetrating oil. Smooth the surface with a file ,carefully center punch the broken bolt, carefully center drill the broken bolt, then use a left hand (opposite twist) drill bit with the drill in reverse and see if you can walk the broken bolt out.

Worked for me easy- peasy but I removed the motor to put it in a drill press so as to assure a straight shot on the broken bolts. I've been told this can be done with the motor in the frame but I didn't feel confident about my skill set.
These are blind holes so be aware of the depth that you are drilling.

If the threads in the case are still in good shape the use studs and lock nuts instead of bolts to hold the bracket and make sure the generator does not have a slight rocking front to rear when it is clamped in the bracket. If there is some movement then shim the generator.

Hope this helps.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYvaPbX1sT4. Please note that I never mentioned using an EZE out. This technique worked for me.

John

[Kiwi_Roy]

The bracket on my Eldorado also has another strap to one of the distributor bolts.
Use exhaust studs, I think its either VW or Honda they can insert all the way to the bottom of the hole and be Loctited in place

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_generator_bracket.html

[Chuck in Indiana]

I should dredge up some pix of how some Distinguished Previous Owner Rube Goldberged that problem.. but it involved poorly fabricated parts and turnbuckles..

[Don G]

The best way to remove those bolts is to weld some thick washers to them, when cool they should come right out.  DonG

[cappisj1]

Ugh. I really didn’t want to take this thing that far apart. Oh well it needs fixed proper anyway. I will upgrade to the studs and add the bracket. I will start soaking  with PB Blaster while I take the engine out.

I will try welding the washers first I think. I just don’t see how an easyout will turn what is left in there if the head Of the bolt could even hold on it.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Welding is your best bet. Don't even try an eze out with the engine in the frame.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Leave the engine in. Take the bike as-is to a local qualified welder. The guy I use doesn't weld anything on, just builds up the broken off stub until it's long enough to grab hold of. The heat from the welding makes it easy to remove then.

[Tom]

 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Rather than a washer, I weld a nut on it. I received instant cred with Mark at MG Classics many years ago showing him that trick. 

[Moparnut72]

The boss in the aero shop where I worked for a couple of years always used a nut. We did it all the time.  The heat from the welding expands the case metal and the stud, in our case would come right out.  Usually little more than finger tight.  Don't use your fingers though.
kk

[guzziownr]

Left-hand drill bits and penetrating oil. Center punch and start small. I had the engine out of the frame so a clear shot. The drilling creates heat and it will walk right out.

[moto-uno]

^ That's what everyone thinks and hopes will happen , but unfortunately that's seldom the case ( specially when the engine is in the frame ).
Over the last few years the welded nut has been invariably successful , so TAKE IT TO A WELDER  . Peter

[cappisj1]

Took it to my go to welder and paid with deer sausage. He used a washer first to get a good flat surface then a nut. The front one spun right out. The rear one took just a little more heat and a little more patience but came out way easier then I expected.

Side note, he said that sometimes bolts are too long and bottom out in a hole like this. When they bottom out they can mushroom some down there and that causes things like this to happen.

Anyway, thanks a million for the help (again)

[Chuck in Indiana]

 

[dustybarn]

Left-hand drill bits and penetrating oil. Center punch and start small. I had the engine out of the frame so a clear shot. The drilling creates heat and it will walk right out.

This worked for me, sorta. They didn't walk right out, they were jammed in there so hard I drilled out enough that I could pick the bolts out in pieces. I knew the crankcase threads were probably knackered so I drilled and tapped the holes for Helicoils. Like most, I replaced the bolts with studs and (important, IMHO) used Nord-Lock washers under the nuts.