Strange Sounds After Valve Adjustment

[valerbear97]

I have a 2024 V7 Special with a 1000 miles on it, and I just completed the first "break-in" maintenance on it. I changed the oil, the oil filter, the air filter, and did the valve adjustments. I watched several videos ahead of time on how to do each step and also have the official service manual which I referred to throughout the process, so I think I did everything right. Bike came back together alright and it runs, but it sounds a bit strange now and its different than the sound from before I worked on it. To my ear, left cylinder sounds a little louder and it sounds like there's some of click clack noise. I did ride the bike gently up and down the block after I was done to get the oil circulated, and everything seems to be working but its just the noises are concerning. Any chance I messed up doing the valve clearances and its causing these sounds? Planning to open it up again and just double-check my work but wanted to see what other folks think.

Here's a 30sec video of what it sounds like, to me its like all the bass is gone at idle but I'm not sure if thats due to valve adjustment problems or the covers for the heads not being secured tightly enough or something else entirely https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAK8bLnPBBU

[Dirk_S]

First off—I’d never recommend doing a valve adjustment job yourself if you’ve never done one. There are nuances that can be missed, and despite people saying “these engines are easy to work on”, you have to remember that we as a society have largely moved on from maintenance jobs that were normally done by the common, informed rider. Kinda like how half the people out there don’t know how to do an oil change, except when it comes to valves, there’s a bit more care to take. Best to have someone knowledgeable that you trust be with you on your first adjustment or two. Pay a mechanic to watch you if you must.

That out of the way, is there any chance you may have missed TDC (top dead center) on combustion stroke and instead got it on the exhaust stroke? That would possibly have led to the intake being slightly open and messing up your adjustment. Also, you need to make sure that you get BOTH pistons at TDC on compression stroke for their respective adjustment, which means rotating the engine for each side.

Properly adjusted valves will have a little clackity noise to them. The key—and this bumps back to the first paragraph—is to know what’s proper and what isn’t. If one cylinder is louder than the other, then that sounds like something is off.

If the sound is significantly noticeable, I’d park it and recheck them considering this is your first time.

(I say all this as a once first-timer)

[valerbear97]

Thanks for the input! Here's what I did and just want to make sure I didn't miss a step:
1) Raise the bike on the centerstand so the rear wheel is off the ground.
2) Take off the cover and pull the sparkplugs on each side
3) On the left side, find TDC and do the intake then exhaust valve
4) On the right side, find TDC again and do the intake then the exhaust valve
5) Replace spark plugs, covers, etc and set the bike back down

Yeah my guess is maybe I didn't correctly find TDC and thats whats causing the issue? I was using the zip tie method but it felt a bit like guesswork (agreeing with your point here about doing work you haven't done before can be tricky). Is there any other more reliable way to find TDC or do folks have any tips for this part of the process? I am not sure if the TDC I used was on the combustion or exhaust stroke but would love to learn and understand this better!

Here is a video of what the bike sounds like currently: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAK8bLnPBBU

[Dirk_S]

Just saw the video. Recorded audio can sometimes be nefarious to the ears, but taking that into consideration, I agree that sounds wrong.

For TDC on compression stroke, the intake will open, then close. Then the piston reaches the top.

I use a straw with lines marked with a sharpie to help with my visual check. I used to use a chopstick before accidentally breaking it off in the cylinder. Needless to say, I wouldn’t personally use anything harder than the cylinder material to avoid damage.

TDC on exhaust stroke, which you DON’T want, will happen as the exhaust closes.

[Moparnut72]

Like Dirk says, I would bet one cylinder was done on the exhaust stoke. Doesn't sound like damage has been done but I wouldn't run it anymore until you find the problem.
kk

[Tom H]

I agree with what Dirk wrote and your 1-5 steps looked good.

You did put the bike in like 3rd or 4th gear and rotate the wheel to get to compression TDC?

Start on the LH cylinder. Watch for rocker to push down the intake valve and then let it back up. Now take a zip tie or plastic drinking straw (I would use something at least 8" long in case you fumble it, then it wont fall all the way in) and gently slide it in the spark plug hole. "Bump" the wheel forward (top of wheel toward front of bike) and you should feel the piston come up. Sorta rest your hand or fingers on the head and let the straw move up. When you feel it stop going up, your there. If you feel it do back down, just bump the wheel back a bit and then forward again until it;s TDC.

Your bike S/B .004" In. and .006" Ex.. You want the feeler gauge to be a gentle pull when the correct gap is set.

EDIT: When you get the valve adjusted correctly, then tighten the lock nut, check the gap again. Sometimes it will get tighter or looser. Try setting the gap again, maybe go a little tighter or looser when you set the gap. Error on the slightly loose side when done if needed.

Good luck!
Tom

[Vagrant]

Any time you need to adjust the valves more than 2 thousands you're doing something wrong. FWIW, I us sixth gear and make sure you turn the wheel in the right direction as stated above. Also make sure two feeler gauges aren't stuck together.

[MikeP996]

Video sound indicates valve lash is much too loose. On rockers that are adjusted as these are, when you tighten the locknut the clearance will typically change (usually be less).  So it is common to have to loosen/re-adjust/check several times to ensure the clearance ends up as correct.

On some engines what works well is to use a gauge .001" larger than the clearance and leave the gauge in place when you tighten the lock nut.  Then, when pulling the gauge you will usually have a "loose" correct clearance.  You can also try the same thing with the correct clearance gauge and see what happens.  FWIW there is no "Spec" for how tight/loose the gauge slides in/out and if three people perform a valve adjustment, they will all likely have a different "feel" for the resistance of sliding gauge.  I have always tended to wanting them on the tight side of the clearance, others prefer the opposite! Go figure

As noted, you must set clearances at TDC of the compression stroke on each cylinder.

FWIW, excessive valve lash won't hurt anything in the short term but it can "mushroom" the valve tips/dent the rockers if excessive for a long period of time.  And, of course you are loosing some valve lift/adversely affecting power to some extent.

[acogoff]

    Finger over sparkplug hole while turning to make sure you are on the compression stroke.

[valerbear97]

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate all the super helpful advice and responses! Proud of to be a part of this community!

 I'll have some time later this week to work on the bike some more and will update with how that goes.

[Dukedesmo]

Agree on the 'correct' TDC.


On my old LM2, aside from the normal checks, there are letters visible; 'D' (Destra) Right and 'S' (Sinistra) Left through the inspection hole to the flywheel which show TDC, don't know if anything like this is available on newer models though?

[Dirk_S]

Agree on the 'correct' TDC.


On my old LM2, aside from the normal checks, there are letters visible; 'D' (Destra) Right and 'S' (Sinistra) Left through the inspection hole to the flywheel which show TDC, don't know if anything like this is available on newer models though?

No more inspection holes since 2016 at least, unfortunately.