Calling KiwiRoy - clutch switches SOLVED

[tris]

Afternoon , I've just discovered that the clutch switch on my V9 is dead

No problem thinks I, I'll get one from Guzzi  - £96 plus shipping

I'm not paying that ( Guzzi content)

It screws in with a plunger out the front, with a lead and female plug.

Roy, reason I shouted out to you was cos I'm not sure of the description. Can you help me look for the right thing?

[Dirk_S]

Just to make sure—absolutely positive that the switch is dead? I thought mine was kaput because I could not start my bike in gear with the side stand up, then during my recent clutch replacement, I found that I was missing a pivot collar at the clutch lever’s pivot pin. This was causing an oblique pivot, making true clutch release and switch actuation a bit flawed. I fab’ed one up, and now I can start in gear again.

[80CX100]

     I'm not sure if it's the same set up on that bike, but on the V11's if you follow the wires back, near the steering head below the tank, there are 2 bullet connectors that are known to be problematic and cause issues.

     fwiw fyi

[Kiwi_Roy]

Update
        I think the V9 will be similar to the V7, it has a small white 2 flat pin connector under the tank.
On the V7 you can get access to the connector without disconnecting the tank, just lift it to one side.
Last time I had the tank off I tested my switch with a multimeter but it's hard to get a good connection as the contacts are way back in the plug.
If you unplug the connector under the tank and unfasten the cable you can unscrew the switch however I suggest you just remove the lever and try to exercise the switch, it should pop out about 5mm, There is a spring inside the switch that pushes the plunger out, perhaps yours is gummed up, try some light oil.
I took the lever off my V7III to see what's in there, no extra bits that could fall out, you can see the plunger in the middle of picture.

I'm sure there are used switches available, lots of owners change out the levers.
-----------------------
There was a related thread a week ago, the owner was talking about removing the switch
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=115102.0

[tris]

Thanks everyone seems like a bit more checking would be sensible

Just to check my understanding

 Should I get continuity across plug with the lever NOT pulled in?

Cheers

[Kiwi_Roy]

No you will get continuity across the plug with the lever pulled in or as I show with the lever removed.
Take the lever off and check the plunger springs back out when you push it in.
Warning - don't try and crank it in gear with the clutch lever off or it will launch the bike.
 

[tris]

Thanks Roy that helps and yes V9 is the same as the V7 as you can access the plug by moving the tank a little to one side

I was getting open circuit lever in or out, so I know what I need to see now

Cheers

[Kiwi_Roy]

It's very hard to get your meter leads deep into the plug and make a good contact with one hand and work the lever with the other, a third hand is required.
If you take the pivot bolt out of the clutch lever and lay it to one side, the switch should be closed, you can also check its not gummed up.
I'm hoping it just needs a few drops of light oil e.g. 3 in 1

[tris]

I went a bit further than Roy suggested and took the switch off the bike as well as the lever itself.

I fairly quickly worked out that the switch was fine  so the problem was elsewhere

I found that the span adjustable levers I got for my stubby fingers didn't clear the plunger in the switch with the lever pulled in

I opted to shim the switch out about 1mm, rather than file the offending part of the lever, and normal service was resumed

The moral of this story is,  don't assume that something has failed until you check it properly 
Stil I  saved £96 

Thanks everyone 

[Kiwi_Roy]

That's great Tris, I never thought of adjustable levers, my stock one barely makes contact when squeezed right into the bar, I will try a thin washer.
The last time I rode my V7 as soon as I squeezed the clutch the engine cranked (didn't push the button), I found the start button tends to stick in, not sure why.
It doesn't seem to have any negative consequences but I will look into it ASAP.

[tris]

Your problem seems slightly different to mine Roy
On mine the lever didn't clear the plunger,so the contact never closed.
The little shim I made moved the switch body out giving more space for the plunger to extend.

If I've understood,  you need the switch to fully open with the lever not pulled
I wonder if the plunger is worn on yours and  if you could stick a shim on the lever ?