Look at my rear end

[RHAT]

The final drive in my 1969 Ambassador has been rebuilt 3 times by 2 different "specialist " and each time it still pours oil out in motion.  Literally in a few blocks it will be pooled up in the wheel when I stop.
I am thinking maybe at some point, someone attempted a gear change and mismatched something.  My bike has 8/37 ring and pinion but should have been born with the 8/35 set. The spline hub has a tapered end and the splines on on the inside. 
There are 2 different spline hubs I see advertised,  one has the
tapered end like mine,  but also has a stop pressed on for the bearing which mine doesn't have.  ( maybe my issue?)




The other hub advertised shows to have the splines on the outside . I haven't been able to find out anything from the dealer about their products,  so I was hoping someone here might have experience with this and know what I have ,or what I need.  Thanks Richard

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Depending on when it was built, a '69 Ambo could have either 8/37 (early) or 8/35 gears (later, more common). My '69 was built Dec. '68 and has 8/37.

In your photos, the inner race of the needle bearing has drifted off the hub partly and could definitely cause sealing issues. The gear teeth look a bit worn as well.

[RHAT]

Depending on when it was built, a '69 Ambo could have either 8/37 (early) or 8/35 gears (later, more common). My '69 was built Dec. '68 and has 8/37.

In your photos, the inner race of the needle bearing has drifted off the hub partly and could definitely cause sealing issues. The gear teeth look a bit worn as well.

Thanks Charlie.  I thought the same thing until I measured (crudely) and everything seems to be where it should be. By my calculations the tapered end of the shaft seems to wind up just kissing the inner seal, and the inner race butts against the seal. There is nothing on mine to stop the needle bearings from walking off the race.  (Unless I'm not seeing it). I also measured the hub shaft and got a larger measurement below the race than I did on the tapered side, so I don't think it will press in any further.  Do you think maybe I'm missing a stop ? Do I need to look for another hub? 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

There is no "stop" and the inner race will press on farther - or it should unless someone has damaged the hub. If the inner race has drifted off like that, I remove it and reinstall with Loctite Retaining Compound.

The seal should do more than "kiss" the tapered section (when the drive is assembled correctly) - it should run on the same surface the inner race slips onto.

[RHAT]

I'll have to access some pullers to get any further. 
Rear ends are stinky business       

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I'll have to access some pullers to get any further. 
Rear ends are stinky business       

I don't use any pullers at all when replacing the seal in Loop rear drives. Heat is your friend.

You might try warming the inner race with a heat gun - sometimes that's all it takes to slip it the rest of the way off. For installation, chill the hub and heat the inner race, it should slide right on. Polish the section that protrudes out to the tapered area with a green Scotchbrite pad so that the new seal (Viton recommended) will have a fresh surface to run on.

To replace the small seal, strip the rear drive housing down until just the outer race, thrust washer and old seal are in it. Warm the housing in an oven or with a heat gun until the outer race and thrust washer drop out - tapping it on a soft wooden block may be required. The small seal can now be pried out (carefully, to not damage the housing).

Reassembly is the same only in reverse.  Install the new small seal (open side inward) and thrust washer, warm the housing, chill the outer race - it'll drop right in.

[RHAT]

 

[RHAT]

[RHAT]

This is what I'm having a hard time getting my mind around,  if you can expand this pic out  you can see the inner race on the shaft is in line with outer race in the housing,  looking in from the pinion side, but I  can't see any reason why the bearing doesn't walk out in that gap on the shaft with the notches.
If I seat the race to the bottom of the shaft,  there will be a gap between the inner bearing and the thrust washer.  Can that be right? Seems something is not right.  I have it super clean and in the freezer.  I intend to loctite it seated to the bottom and see what it do.