uggh 02 stone replacement petcock leak

[s1120]

So I havent heard much about the state of replacement petcocks these days. Mine is the replacement one from I believe MG cycle. The stock electric one failed internally a few years ago. Ive read about the new replacements not being all that good [as mine proves..], and some tearing them apart and replacing the orings but before I jump into that I figured I would ask if there is any new better ones on the market that work for longer then a year or two?

[yogidozer]

I've had my MG  cycle one for Many years.
Is this the one you tried?
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39
Call to see if this will work on your Stone

[s1120]

I've had my MG  cycle one for Many years.
Is this the one you tried?
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39

Ya that looks like the one. Ive heard many have them tighten up on them, and or leak. Mine is about 3 years old, and started leaking last week. Doesn't leak when closed, and open with the engine running it doesn't, but with engine off it drips. Im sure that will only get worse with time.

[guzzisteve]

I've had this one for over 10yrs, I never shut it off(bitch to turn)but it was dripping from the threads going on the fuel tank and snugging mad it worse so I coated the threads with what Aprilia uses on their orings for fuel plate to tank.
No more leak.
A red gel in a tube made by LocTite #518

[lucky phil]

I did a thread on the v11leMans forum on modifying them to be serviceable and use FKM/Viton seals. They are actually a nice design let down by using cheap Nitrile seals that swell when exposed to fuel. When you try to shut them off the swelled seals jam the plunger and most people resort to pliers to turn the tap which puts strain on the tank mount inserts. Using Nitrile seals with fuel is fine in static applications where the swelling can actually enhance sealing but hopeless in a dynamic situation. Once again saving a few cents in manufacture compromises a good design. I've also seen the tap body hairline crack through the swelling and forcing the nut to close them as the main cast steel body wall cross section is well under 1mm or 0.040".
My thread is here with the details and oring sizes required.
  https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21761-manual-fuel-tap-issues/#comment-248433

Phil

[s1120]

I did a thread on the v11leMans forum on modifying them to be serviceable and use FKM/Viton seals. They are actually a nice design let down by using cheap Nitrile seals that swell when exposed to fuel. When you try to shut them off the swelled seals jam the plunger and most people resort to pliers to turn the tap which puts strain on the tank mount inserts. Using Nitrile seals with fuel is fine in static applications where the swelling can actually enhance sealing but hopeless in a dynamic situation. Once again saving a few cents in manufacture compromises a good design. I've also seen the tap body hairline crack through the swelling and forcing the nut to close them as the main cast steel body wall cross section is well under 1mm or 0.040".
My thread is here with the details and oring sizes required.
  https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21761-manual-fuel-tap-issues/#comment-248433

Phil

Ya, I have read your post about replacing the seals. I might just have to do this. I was hoping that maybe there has been a improved one made since then. Might just pick a new one up, and then spend the time rebuilding the one I have so if/when the new one leaks or stiffens up, I can just swap.

[lucky phil]

Ya, I have read your post about replacing the seals. I might just have to do this. I was hoping that maybe there has been a improved one made since then. Might just pick a new one up, and then spend the time rebuilding the one I have so if/when the new one leaks or stiffens up, I can just swap.

They eventually get to the point when they wont close then getting the tank off has fuel everywhere. Thats what prompted me to develop the mod.

Phil

[s1120]

They eventually get to the point when they wont close then getting the tank off has fuel everywhere. Thats what prompted me to develop the mod.

Phil

Mine still opened and closed. Sometimes harder then others, but never needed to resort to any tools. It just leaks.

[LowRyter]

seems like they all leak sooner or later

[yogidozer]

seems like they all leak sooner or later

Maybe because I bought mine so long ago, but I've never had a problem.
Made differently now? IDK

[lucky phil]

Mine still opened and closed. Sometimes harder then others, but never needed to resort to any tools. It just leaks.

Before you go to the trouble of modifying it make sure the body where the plunger slides isn't cracked. I've had one with a hairline crack in it and had to be binned.

Phil

[LowRyter]

Maybe because I bought mine so long ago, but I've never had a problem.
Made differently now? IDK

Better knock wood

[yogidozer]

Maybe some day, someone will make a new one with on/off/reserve....👽

[s1120]

Maybe some day, someone will make a new one with on/off/reserve....👽

Reserve would be nice. Mostly because my fuel light doesn't work.

[yogidozer]

Reserve would be nice. Mostly because my fuel light doesn't work.

Yeah, thank God for modern technology 

[LowRyter]

The one on my Sport failed, there was nothing at hand, a simple plumbing elbow was used.  I have a quick connect for a removable outboard fuel tank but it looks a little long to install.  So, I carry a cork the might fit as a stopper if I need to remove the tank again.