Replacing timing chain

[bigpants]

Hi everyone. I've had a persistent oil leak from the timing cover so whilst I've got the cover off I'm going to replace the chain (50000m) and upgrade the tensioner. Reading old threads I hear mention of an o-ring for the alternator but I'm not sure I have one on my 1100 sporti , anyone out there know ?

[Huzo]

Mine is not a Sporti, but it is a big block and I’ve not heard of the O ring to which you refer.

[blackcat]

There is a seal in the timing cover which could be the cause of the leak. Part# 117GU90402840

https://cadrecycle.com/1100_Sport_Carburatori/

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

There is an o-ring - #7 in this illustration. IIRC it fits into or inside spacer #8.

[guzziart]

There is an o-ring - #7 in this illustration. IIRC it fits into or inside spacer #8.

Yeah, I didn't realize there was an oring in there until I was going back together and decided to pull the spacer off the crank, wipe it down to make sure it wasn't grooved because the crank seal rides on it. In pulling it off there was a slight amount of drag, once off, I noticed the oring inside the spacer.  I probably should have replaced it but didn't, I was regretfully in a hurry, glad it didn't leak after assembly. This was on my '03 V11 Lemans.  IMO, that oring & spacer shoulda been part of the timing cover illustrated parts breakdown...not the generator IPB but what do I know, I'm not a tech writer.

FWIW, the only timing cover gasket I got where all the bolt holes in the gasket & cover lined up perfect was from Moto Guzzi.  I bought 3 gaskets,  one was a composite gasket from a popular aftermarket MG parts supplier...half of the gasket bolt holes didn't line up with the cover holes and to line up all the holes in the gasket with the cover holes ended up distorting the gasket...it wouldn't lie flat.  The 2nd gasket was an original paper style that had the same problem as the aftermarket composite gasket....nothing lined up to allow the gasket to lay flat when dry fit, this gasket came from a MG dealer.  The 3rd gasket was also a composite gasket, from a MG dealer and came in a sealed baggie with the MG p/n & logo on it...genuine Guzzi part.  The 3rd gasket dry fit perfectly, no distortion, every thing lined up perfectly.  Yeah, I know Guzzi doesn't make timing cover gaskets but the gaskets they have made for them are manufactured to closer tolerances....at least in this instance, imho.  Anyway, I went ahead, installed the genuine Guzzi composite gasket, dry, no sealer and no leaks.....very happy! 

Why install a gasket that doesn't lie flat on it's sealing surface and holes for bolts & bosses don't line up??!!  IDK but when I complained to the vendors about misalignment issues the response was an offer to refund my  money and that they've sold hundreds with an issue.  The difference between the geuine Guzzi composite versus the aftermarket composite gasket were drastic in fit & finish.  The difference in price was a couple dollars.

Hey Bigpants, good luck with your chain replacement task!

Art

[bigpants]

I've emailed two different guzzi part suppliers and they both said they didn't think there was an o ring so I'm none the wiser. Next I need a step by step idiots guide to chain replacement.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

There is an o-ring, I've replaced them before. Without an o-ring, oil could flow between the spacer and crank and leak out. Part number: 90706178 . https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=281&products_id=2155

[guzzisteve]

Get the oring, I've changed mine once & many others plus seals. BUT don't take the word of those who do it for a living. Not just to post on some forum.
Sorry bout the rant, Charlie would not steer you wrong.

[bigpants]

I've finally found the o-ring. I can see why it gets omitted. For anyone reading this in the future the ring is literally inside the spacer . It's an internal o- ring .

[bigpants]

I don't know if I'm just being a dummy but I can't find a guide to replacing the chain and tensioner. I don't want to just start undoing things with no plan . Does anyone know of a step by step guide ?

[pressureangle]

Hi everyone. I've had a persistent oil leak from the timing cover so whilst I've got the cover off I'm going to replace the chain (50000m) and upgrade the tensioner. Reading old threads I hear mention of an o-ring for the alternator but I'm not sure I have one on my 1100 sporti , anyone out there know ?

There is. It dries out, cracks, and leaks. On my own, the spacer behind the alternator rotor also has a tapered bore in one end, so I took the opportunity to add one there as well.

It still leaks lol

One member on another board suggested that it needs a directional seal, but I haven't explored that yet. Had 3 seals and new o-rings, still got some haze after long rides. Meh.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I don't know if I'm just being a dummy but I can't find a guide to replacing the chain and tensioner. I don't want to just start undoing things with no plan . Does anyone know of a step by step guide ?

A search on replacing the timing chain complete with pitchers, etc. 
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=99575.0

[guzziart]

I've finally found the o-ring. I can see why it gets omitted. For anyone reading this in the future the ring is literally inside the spacer . It's an internal o- ring .

Congratulations!!!

Art

[dguzzi]

  We used to tease a guy at work that he put the oring in backwards. 

[Tom H]

I didn't read the link. I have a tip for you.

TDC the LH piston. The painted marks on the gears should now be lined up. If not rotate again to get the marks lined up.

Then, take a a silver or white sharpie, paint pen, touch up paint or the like.  Now make a mark on the OLD timing chain and a mark in the same place on the sprocket. Now you have a line to line up the sprocket and chain. Do this to all 3 sprockets.

Once you have the chain off, lay it on your NEW chain and transfer the marks. Put the sprockets on a table and put the chain on them at the marks. If you sorta roll the gears, you can pick it all up as a unit when ready to install.

Good luck,
Tom

[Huzo]

Keeping the woodruff key in place on the crankshaft can be a bugger, have the top of the key on a slight angle downwards toward the front. It enters into the slot in the sprocket easier.
If you warm the gears in an oven to the point where you can just handle them, they slide on a fair bit easier.
Don’t forget the small key in the oil pump or the driving dowell in the camwheel…(if applicable).

[bigpants]

Ok it's been a while but a quick update. It turned out I couldn't shift the big nut holding the gear on . The plumbers box spanner I used couldn't take the punishment and started to collapse. But whilst I was in there with a better view and better access I realised the crank position sensor wasn't gapped correctly. I wondered if maybe these reports of missed beats being corrected by a new timing chain might actually have something to do with a more accurate CPS gap. So seeing as I was stuck anyway I just gapped it up , replaced the cover gasket and put the bike back together. It started up a bit easier than it used to and I went to put it in gear .... And the clutch cable broke. I knew that new clutch was too stiff. New cable on its way , I'll report back if there's any improvement.

[John A]

It’s good that you have it trained to break at home !

[Huzo]

Just get a rattle gun.
I tried everything I could for ages, then five minutes after getting home with the rattle gun, the gears were on the bench.