1995 Cali 1100i Idle Increase

[Rob T]

Hi everyone, hope this makes sense - being a fuel injection novice my description and terms may be a bit vague.
My 1995 California 1100i  idle speed to increases to 1500-1800 rpm after riding and coming to a stop. I have sprayed the fuel injection moving components, springs, cable with degreaser and lubricated. The throttle assemblies? return to the stop position when the throttle is twisted and released when cold.
When the engine has warmed up the throttle assemblies don't fully return to the stop/closed position (remains approx 2 mm from the stop)unless I fully close it manually. Once I have manually pushed the throttle assembly to the stop position the idle returns to 1100 rpm.

I have lubricated the cable and twist grip but wondering if the cable is sticking inside the outer sheath once the engine has warmed up or is there another potential gremlin? I have a new cable which I will be fitting.

Many thanks for your thoughts, suggestions.

Rob T

[guzzisteve]

How about the throttle advance lever on LH bar? Is it free? Does it go all the way closed? Sounds like the issue to me.

On the RH side there is an adjustment screw for it that must have a couple mm free play when closed. It is in the center of control arms on RH side. Back it off a turn or so, see if that's it.
You set that lever w/motor hot to 3500rpm fully on, that way it works as it should cold.

[Tkelly]

Get new throttle cable.

[Rob T]

Thanks for your reply Guzzi Steve, the throttle advance looks to be closing off at the bar but I haven't checked the adjustment screw yet. I will check that tomorrow. Cheers mate

[Rob T]

Thanks for your reply Tkelly. I was thinking along the same lines that it may be cable related. I have a new cable which I will install after the Xmas festivities. Cheers mate.

[Wayne Orwig]

The air box can distort with heat and rub the throttle assemble causing problems like that.

[John A]

There is a recall to add a closing throttle cable but I don’t know if it’s applicable to this bike. If there is an intake burp it can move the right throttle body aft on the rubber tube and the linkage hits the air box on causing it to not close so it would stay at 2000+ rpm. It happened to me on a ‘99 so I pulled the clutch lever and hit the kill switch. I added the extra closing cable myself but I don’t recommend that. You need a slightly odd tap and you have to drill and tap the plastic housing on the twist grip.  I don’t think that’s your problem but wanted you to be aware. It’s most likely the fast idle cable as someone pointed out.

[cappisj1]

Had a 96 fuel injection bike do the same. I had already cut a notch in the plastic cover mount holes to avoid the linkage catching. I cleaned and lubed like you with little effect. I was able to find a different catch for the return spring. I can’t remember if it was on top or bottom but I was able to push one end of the springs to catch on a different point that wound the springs tighter. That fixed it for me. I don’t think there was a noticeable difference on the throttle tension at the grip. I was three days from home and made decisions based off that. I would change the cable first though and see if that fixes it. Doing what I did covered up whatever the real problem was but it worked and I am sure it’s still working. 

[JoeB]

The air box can distort with heat and rub the throttle assemble causing problems like that.

This happened to my 98EV. Riding one day and unexpectedly the throttle wouldn't close.
One of the few times in my life I used the kill switch. Watching while manipulating the throttle I could see where the rods going to the throttle bodies were hanging up.
If I remember correctly ( ) it was Wayne who posted about using a heat gun on the air box to form it for needed clearance. Didn't take much, and it worked.
Edit: It wasn't long after that they added the second cable on recall.