V7 iii Stone p0336, p0115 and p1607

[Moto Mike]

Hello,
Long time rider, first time Moto Guzzi owner. I recently purchased a beautiful used black 2017 V7 iii stone with 1100 miles on the clock. The bike was 100% stock, was rarely ridden, maintained and kept indoors with the previous owner. I added Raask slip in cans, bar end mirrors and a fly screen. I intend on installing a tune as soon as I can. I have been riding with zero issues for a few weeks, but on my last ride, I started having problems with the bike. I searched the forum first, but couldn’t find my specific problem.
 
-Check engine light, solid light.
-Intermittent roughness at low throttle, like fuel issue.
-RPM sticks sometimes at 2000-3000 when I let off the throttle.
-Speedometer reads fast and comes to rest at 10 to 15 mph, even when key is off.

All the symptoms started on the same ride. I did wash the bike before the ride, so I suspected that something got wet that should not have, or I upset some sensors.
Things I’ve tried so far..

-Run GuzziDiag to check for codes. I found
P0115 Engine temp sensor: too high
P0336 Engine speed sensor: invalid signal
P1607 Data file saved (for safety): invalid signal
-I checked and cleaned my battery terminals, contacts and grounds.
-Checked harness connections to the ECU and speedo, plugs were clean and dry.
-Check the air box for excessive oil, just found traces.
-Throttle body was clean.
-All sensors seem to be intact and plugs clean and dry.
-Checked throttle cable, it’s functioning properly.

I find it odd that all this happened on the same day.
Before I start throwing parts at it, I want to see if anyone has had this issue before. Not sure if the aftermarket exhaust cans are contributing to the issue, but no O2 codes yet…

Thanks for reading
Mike

[Alfetta]

Did you use a pressure washer to clean the bike ?

[Moto Mike]

No, I just used mild soap and a low pressure hose. I disconnected plugs and connectors to clean and check for water. No evidence. Good question.

[elrealistico]

Disconnect the battery for awhile, clean the terminals while you are at it , might as welll top up the charge and then reconnect after at last a few minutes

[Moto Mike]

Battery, terminals, cables, connections all cleaned already. I left the battery disconnected for a day while I performed that work. This is one of the reasons why I’m stumped.

[Vagrant]

Make sure you take the battery out and go to an auto parts store and load test it. When Guzzi's start doing strange things it's usually the battery.
I think I told you in private to clear the codes after cleaning everything (don't forget the three? relays under the tank). My guess is it will be fine if the battery is 100%.

[Moto Mike]

Make sure you take the battery out and go to an auto parts store and load test it. When Guzzi's start doing strange things it's usually the battery.
I think I told you in private to clear the codes after cleaning everything (don't forget the three? relays under the tank). My guess is it will be fine if the battery is 100%.

Awesome! I will try all that.
Thank you

[Moparnut72]

In the overall picture of things batteries are not very expensive. I haven't had any better luck with a premium one than a cheap one. I put a cheap online battery in my V7 after the original died, in its defense it wasn't its fault, mainly the owner's screw ups. It cranked better than ever. I also wonder how much damage batteries suffer from sitting in showrooms for months with virtually no maintenance.
kk

[Moto Mike]

In the overall picture of things batteries are not very expensive. I haven't had any better luck with a premium one than a cheap one. I put a cheap online battery in my V7 after the original died, in its defense it wasn't its fault, mainly the owner's screw ups. It cranked better than ever. I also wonder how much damage batteries suffer from sitting in showrooms for months with virtually no maintenance.
kk

I hear what you’re saying, I won’t know how the load test goes till this weekend when I have a moment to pull the battery. I’m hoping it’s still good, the seller just installed it before selling. It’s a Yuasa, I’ve had great luck with that brand over the years. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I have read posts about weak charging systems from the factory. The context being that folks were asking about adding electrical gizmos and worried about draw and the system keeping up. It sounds like it does not take much to disrupt the charging system, so it makes sense that a slight drop in battery voltage could exacerbate the problem. I’ll put my multimeter on it to see where the voltage stands while running. I’ll update my progress.
Thanks All!!!

[Vagrant]

The v7-3 is ok with no extra loads. But it doesn’t have much extra.

[Moto Mike]

Make sure you take the battery out and go to an auto parts store and load test it. When Guzzi's start doing strange things it's usually the battery.
I think I told you in private to clear the codes after cleaning everything (don't forget the three? relays under the tank). My guess is it will be fine if the battery is 100%.

I took the battery to a local independent motorcycle shop, it is still in new condition. I cleaned every connector, switch, plug and relay I could find with Deoxit, but I am still having issues. I wonder if I should just reset the codes and try to turn off the O2s then see what happens…

[Vagrant]

That is exactly what you need to do. Both of my O2 sensors failed by 20000miles.The 2017 was especially famous for this. Piss poor location lets water in.

[Moto Mike]

That is exactly what you need to do. Both of my O2 sensors failed by 20000miles.The 2017 was especially famous for this. Piss poor location lets water in.

Update,
After going back over all the little details and checks, o decided to just put the Beetle map on my bike and see what happens. In my case, I purchased the V7 iii aftermarket exhaust, no db killers. After a little learning curve, I got it installed. What a difference!!! It’s responsive, power comes on quicker, it’s smooth and feels like it revs quicker if that’s possible.. just the butt dyno talking, maybe.. no more engine codes, no more weird high idle stuff, no more stumbling at low rpms in 1st gear.

Question, do I need to remove the O2’s and the wiring? Do I need to remove the other emissions evap gizmo as well? If so, do I need diodes, blocks, stops, and other wizardry?

The only thing left to resolve, is the speedometer issue which seems to have gotten worse. It now rests at 30mph when I am stopped hahaha. After some reading, I’m beginning to think the needle came off the shaft and remained loose. I found a video of the guy that pulled it apart and addressed it. This may be my next project, unless someone has another experience or idea. I am so grateful for the support!!

[Kev m]

Update,
After going back over all the little details and checks, o decided to just put the Beetle map on my bike and see what happens. In my case, I purchased the V7 iii aftermarket exhaust, no db killers. After a little learning curve, I got it installed. What a difference!!! It’s responsive, power comes on quicker, it’s smooth and feels like it revs quicker if that’s possible.. just the butt dyno talking, maybe.. no more engine codes, no more weird high idle stuff, no more stumbling at low rpms in 1st gear.

Question, do I need to remove the O2’s and the wiring? Do I need to remove the other emissions evap gizmo as well? If so, do I need diodes, blocks, stops, and other wizardry?

The only thing left to resolve, is the speedometer issue which seems to have gotten worse. It now rests at 30mph when I am stopped hahaha. After some reading, I’m beginning to think the needle came off the shaft and remained loose. I found a video of the guy that pulled it apart and addressed it. This may be my next project, unless someone has another experience or idea. I am so grateful for the support!!

No need to remove the O2's or wiring, they are turned off now anyway.

No need to remove or block the EVAP, it's very rare that it causes an actual problem.

Yes, if off at rest, then resetting the needle seems to be the reported solution by multiple people, including my electrical engineer little bro this past weekend judging from the pics and videos he sent me.

[Vagrant]

Glad you got it sorted. Just wait until you have 25000 miles on it and it's really broken in.

[jcctx]

Put a $15 bicycle speedo on it and be happy! If install correct it will be accurate!!

[Moto Mike]

Another update,
I went on a 200 mile ride with some friends on Sunday to get a better feel for the new map. All felt good till about the half way mark when the dreaded engine returned and it started idling erratically again, just not as extreme as before the beetle map. It also seemed to have lost some of the smoothness in the throttle throughout the rpm range. When I got home, I plugged it into Diag and only have one code, P0115 Engine temperature sensor: too high. I am guessing there is a temp sensor somewhere that needs changing? Is this an air temp sensor or oil temp? Any feedback is welcomed.

[Kev m]

Another update,
I went on a 200 mile ride with some friends on Sunday to get a better feel for the new map. All felt good till about the half way mark when the dreaded engine returned and it started idling erratically again, just not as extreme as before the beetle map. It also seemed to have lost some of the smoothness in the throttle throughout the rpm range. When I got home, I plugged it into Diag and only have one code, P0115 Engine temperature sensor: too high. I am guessing there is a temp sensor somewhere that needs changing? Is this an air temp sensor or oil temp? Any feedback is welcomed.

Neither, Engine Temp would have to be head.

[Moto Mike]

Neither, Engine Temp would have to be head.

Thanks Kev,
Is that the little brass guy on the backside of the left head, under the fuel tank, next to the rubber vent hose? If so, replace?

[Kev m]

Thanks Kev,
Is that the little brass guy on the backside of the left head, under the fuel tank, next to the rubber vent hose? If so, replace?

Not sure, haven't checked. Manual seems to suggest it's on the right head just above the intake manifold, probably shrouded by the injector cover.

[Moto Mike]

Update
I’m enjoying the Beetle tune performance wise. I am beginning to wonder if I missed something when I installed it.
-Side note..I never resolved the temp sensor/switch issue. I cleaned it, but have not replaced it yet.

While on a 400 mile ride yesterday, the check engine light came back on and it started acting like it was running out of fuel. This would last roughly 10-15 seconds then would clear out and be good for about 10-20 minutes, then would repeat. I began to wonder if the O2 sensors never got turned off with the Beetle tune. So I pulled over to the side of the road and unplugged them. The bike would not fire up and the exhaust immediately smelled of over fuel during the attempt. I plugged them back in and she fired up. The problem continued for the rest of the ride. Does this mean the O2 sensor are still operating? Do I need to reinstall the tune? I plan to plug it back in the diagnostic, but am hoping to get any input.

Thanks All,
Mike

[Moto Mike]

I plugged it into GuzziDiag.
-Same faults
-checked lambda mixture. Left says “lean” right says “not active”.

Ecu info
IAW MIUG3
CM275407
38M3G3HW311
464AVHAM

When the Beetle tune is installed, should both lambdas be Not Active?

[Vagrant]

They should both be inactive.
My 2016 acted the same way. After a ton of "trying" I found one plug cap was corroded inside. Unscrew the plug caps from the wires, clean with deoxit and wire brush the plug top cap itself. Why only one was corroded is beyond my knowledge, but it did cure it. You could also have one cap bad or a bad plug. 

[Moto Mike]

They should both be inactive.
My 2016 acted the same way. After a ton of "trying" I found one plug cap was corroded inside. Unscrew the plug caps from the wires, clean with deoxit and wire brush the plug top cap itself. Why only one was corroded is beyond my knowledge, but it did cure it. You could also have one cap bad or a bad plug.

Thanks Vagrant,
I purchased this product based on your recommendation in the beginning of this whole ordeal. I treated every plug connection in the harness.. except the spark plug wires. I just treated them and gave it a test, but I’m still getting the same issue. I pulled both plugs and they look a little in the dry black side, but not gunked up. I’ll order some new spark plugs and try that. It’s still weird that it thinks one side O2 sensor is still active. I think I need to email Beetle and see if there is a solution.

[Vagrant]

Smart move. He is really good to work with.