2013 v7 stone engine rebuild

[tl_24]

Hi all,

I’m new to the forum and a fairly new moto guzzi v7 stone owner. Recently had an issue with my conrod bearings and it seems that I will more than likely have to rebuild or replace the engine. I’ve been looking at used markets for parts but 2013 seems to be sparse. I’ve heard MG classics in signal hill is a good resource but the times I’ve called, marks been away from the line. Would appreciate some input on how I could get a spare engine while I consider my options.

Thanks!

[slowmover]

I wonder why they went bad?

[guzzisteve]

Most of the time it's lack of oil through the crankshaft. 

[Dirk_S]

Where are you based?
Are you looking to do this yourself?
Do you have experience doing engine rebuilds?

I rebuilt my 2016 V7 II motor after spinning a big end bearing (surprise, surprise, loaded sidecars cause air-cooled motors to burn oil more quickly). I didn’t have prior experience. The modern small block motors appear to have tight clearances, so if you’re doing it yourself, I’d make sure to have the proper gauges to check gaps and new part thicknesses - depth gauge, micrometer, Plastigauge, etc.

For parts, MG Cycle, AF1, EBay, Stein-Dinse (Germany), and your local Guzzi dealer (hopefully a reputed one who’s been around like Jim Hamlin) will be your best bets.

For tips and tutorials, you’ll want the factory service manual, which you can download from either Cadre Cycle’s website, Greg Bender’s ThisOldtractor.com, or Guzzitek.org. Greg’s site has the factory training videos, which are very helpful. I also recommend Dave Richardson’s Guzziology (available in print or Kindle), which is a treasure tome of tips and specific notes on the Guzzi V-twins small and large.

Parts fiches can be found and downloaded from the previously mentioned sites as well, but I also use the website https://motoguzzi.genuine-parts-catalogue.com

A number of smarties on here with great knowledge on either the technical aspects and/or diving into the motor should you get stuck or need clarification.

[Kev m]

For tips and tutorials, you’ll want the factory service manual, which you can download from either Cadre Cycle’s website, Greg Bender’s ThisOldtractor.com, or Guzzitek.org.

I'm not sure you can download anything from Guzzitech anymore if you're not a PAYING MEMBER... I don't even think I can post without being one now.

[Dirk_S]

I'm not sure you can download anything from Guzzitech anymore if you're not a PAYING MEMBER... I don't even think I can post without being one now.

Two different resources - I referenced the super beneficial and helpful Guzzitek.org site.

I don’t reference GTM unless necessary anymore. I’m tired of unreasonable egos.

[Kev m]

Two different resources - I referenced the super beneficial and helpful Guzzitek.org site.

I don’t reference GTM unless necessary anymore. I’m tired of unreasonable egos.

 

I don't think Guzzitek.org was even on my radar. Thanks!

[tl_24]

Still figuring out how to reply directly to comments but to answer Dirk_S, I'm based in Southern Ca and have no experience fixing engines but am going to attempt it myself. In the meantime, I found a replacement engine from a 2011 that I might purchase to swap. Seems like it's compatible but was wondering if one of you might be able to confirm.

[guzzisteve]

You hit the QUOTE button to answer a person who replied.

13 is a single throttle body model with a wet alternator, 11 is dual throttle body with a dry alternator. Not a match for plug & play

[Vagrant]

The 13 was the first year of the single throttle system. There could be differences you won’t find much fun. Honestly it’s a $3000 bike at most. Not worth putting more money into when a low use 17 is tops $3500-4000 and new leftover $6000.
Jmho.

[Dirk_S]

The 13 was the first year of the single throttle system. There could be differences you won’t find much fun. Honestly it’s a $3000 bike at most. Not worth putting more money into when a low use 17 is tops $3500-4000 and new leftover $6000.
Jmho.

…unless one likes to learn and dive into something new.

Speaking as one of the few small block owners who’s actually explored the inside of their motor, if you have the curiosity, desire to understand these bikes (and motos in general), and know the risks, go for it! Just be sure to carefully follow the guidance and advice from those who know more and ask questions when you’re not completely sure.

[Dirk_S]

According to the online parts fiches that I listed in my previous comment (https://motoguzzi.genuine-parts-catalogue.com/moto-guzzi-motorcycles/750-MOTO-GUZZI-MOTORCYCLES/V7), the following parts match up between 2011 and 2013 V7’s:

• Crankshaft
• Camshaft
• Bearings
• Engine crankcase
• Alternator cover
• push rods

That’s all I’ve checked, but it seems promising to me. I’d just make sure that you seek out the latest part numbers that may supercede older part numbers and/or ensure that any older part numbers will fit newer part numbers.

You’ll also have to make sure that you get that crankcase—if you’re using the same one—cleaned VERY well…like, by a professional engine shop, because bearing material stuck in oil passages will be the death of a newly rebuilt motor right quick!

SEE!? HOW IS THIS NOT FUN??

(do it!)

[Kev m]

You hit the QUOTE button to answer a person who replied.

13 is a single throttle body model with a wet alternator, 11 is dual throttle body with a dry alternator. Not a match for plug & play

13 and 14 were still dry alternators, they changed to wet for the last year of the MkI in North America, 2015.

[guzzisteve]

13 and 14 were still dry alternators, they changed to wet for the last year of the MkI in North America, 2015.

OK, one less issue. Thanks Kev

[Dirk_S]

In addition to the single throttle body/ECU that fits up to (but not including) the V7 II, the 2013 uses the newer style air box that goes up through 2016 V7 II, the 2-in-1 air intake (from the single throttle body)…hm, what else…

If you don’t want to dig into the motor itself and prefer to simply swap in the 2013 engine, I think, based off the fiches, it should mate to the 2011 clutch bell housing and transmission. If you don’t want to deal with replacing the air intake, air box, throttle body, main wiring harness…perhaps —PERHAPS…you might simply need to pop off the cylinder heads (and maybe pistons and cylinders) from the 2013 and slap your 2011 top end onto the 2013. I THINK the cylinder heads have different manifold mounting due to the change from two manifolds to one. But the connecting rods appear to be shared (hooray), which means potentially— a top end swap could be all that’s needed if you want to use the 2013 engine.

[tl_24]

In addition to the single throttle body/ECU that fits up to (but not including) the V7 II, the 2013 uses the newer style air box that goes up through 2016 V7 II, the 2-in-1 air intake (from the single throttle body)…hm, what else…

If you don’t want to dig into the motor itself and prefer to simply swap in the 2013 engine, I think, based off the fiches, it should mate to the 2011 clutch bell housing and transmission. If you don’t want to deal with replacing the air intake, air box, throttle body, main wiring harness…perhaps —PERHAPS…you might simply need to pop off the cylinder heads (and maybe pistons and cylinders) from the 2013 and slap your 2011 top end onto the 2013. I THINK the cylinder heads have different manifold mounting due to the change from two manifolds to one. But the connecting rods appear to be shared (hooray), which means potentially— a top end swap could be all that’s needed if you want to use the 2013 engine.

Just clarifying, I am thinking of purchasing a 2011 engine and swapping it into my 2013. Idk if the top and bottom ends would be compatible between the years tho. If they are that would be great.

[Dirk_S]

Just clarifying, I am thinking of purchasing a 2011 engine and swapping it into my 2013. Idk if the top and bottom ends would be compatible between the years tho. If they are that would be great.

Ah, sorry dude— I twisted that in my head (rushing an attempt to help, when I should be focused on my Mongolia trip beginning tomorrow). The crankcase, crankshaft, camshaft, bearings, con rods all appear to fit. Transmission and clutch seem like they’ll fit. Good luck from there. Looking forward to seeing progress on this when I return :)

[tl_24]

Ah, sorry dude— I twisted that in my head (rushing an attempt to help, when I should be focused on my Mongolia trip beginning tomorrow). The crankcase, crankshaft, camshaft, bearings, con rods all appear to fit. Transmission and clutch seem like they’ll fit. Good luck from there. Looking forward to seeing progress on this when I return :)

gotcha, enjoy your trip. I'll try to keep this thread up to date.