Test rode a 2017 Stelvio today

[flip]

This afternoon, I rode up to an independent motorcycle shop that has a 2017 Stelvio for sale. I took it for a short ride, just up and back on a divided 4 lane highway. I was mainly interested in the riding position and how the engine and vibrations were at 60-70 mph.

I'm a large guy, I've lost a couple of inches in height so I'm down to 6'0" and I'm down to 320 lbs(yes, I said down to 320  ). I felt kinda cramped in the seat. I was back against the passenger seat and could not really move around on the seat. I'm guessing that a one piece Corbin seat might fix that issue for me. Hmm, and the rider can use a backrest on the Corbin...Anyone got a Corbin on their Stelvio?

The vibrations on the bike felt similar to my Breva 1100. I know the riding position and the wide handlebars will take a bit to get used to. Anybody swapped handlebars to some that are a bit more like superbike or a naked bike's handlebars?

Though I didn't hit any curvy roads, I didn't really feel the front tire like I do on my Breva 1100. But, I noticed the Stelvio had a 180 width tire on the back. I believe it should be a 150 width tire on it.

On the ride back home on my Breva, I was comparing the 2 bikes in my head. I know the Stelvio is superior to the Breva as a long range ride but I'm cheap and I'm not sure the improvement is worth the money.

So, now for the $
The '17 Stelvio has 12,000 miles give or take. No maintenance history and they want $10k.

They offered me $2500 for my '07 Breva 1100 and asked that I remove as much of the aftermarket parts as possible.

Then about $300 for tax, tag, etc.

I know I'm the only one that can decide if the deal is right for me but I'd like y'all's opinion on the financial part of this: trade my Breva plus $7800 for a '17 Stelvio with 12k miles.

[antmanbee]

You could buy this 15 Stelvio NTX with way less miles for the same amount as the after trade price and keep your Breva. Seems like a better way to go.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/280360550015611/

[Zoom Zoom]

Regarding the seat. Are you aware there are two settings for height? It may have been on the lower setting.

As for the rest, If you traded, you would only be paying tax on the difference. I am surprised they would want you to remove stuff, especially if it is functional like bags but what do I know.

John Henry

[fotoguzzi]

You could buy this 15 Stelvio NTX with way less miles for the same amount as the after trade price and keep your Breva. Seems like a better way to go.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/280360550015611/

this is a real beauty, plus you still have money left over for a plane ticket to go get it.

[antmanbee]

I'm guessing it is only about 350 miles from where he lives. No need to fly. And it is a beauty.

[flip]

You could buy this 15 Stelvio NTX with way less miles for the same amount as the after trade price and keep your Breva. Seems like a better way to go.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/280360550015611/

Thanks. That does look like a better deal!

[John Warner]

I swapped to lower, narrower Bars on my Stelvio.
Be aware though, the Guzzi Bars are a slightly smaller Diameter at the Mounting area to the industry standard 'Fat-Bars', so you can't simply put on an aftermarket set.
Well, you might be able to put them in position, and do the Clamps up, but you'd be stressing the Clamps by forcing them over the slightly larger diameter Bars.

I bought some 'generic' Fat-Bar Risers, and made a couple of Spacers to raise them enough to clear the Tank Covers on full lock.








There are two Rear Rim sizes available, 5", and 5.5".
The narrower Rim is on the NTX, as it's the more off-road oriented model, so you need that Rim to fit Dual-Purpose Tyres, they only go up to 150 section.
The Wider Rim takes a 180 Tyre.
I have the wide Rim on mine (a Griso Wheel), and a matching Griso front Wheel (17"), so I can (and do) use decent 'Sports' Tyres.
As expected, it feels like a Sports Bike, with MX Bars, handles superbly!

[flip]

I swapped to lower, narrower Bars on my Stelvio.
Be aware though, the Guzzi Bars are a slightly smaller Diameter at the Mounting area to the industry standard 'Fat-Bars', so you can't simply put on an aftermarket set.
Well, you might be able to put them in position, and do the Clamps up, but you'd be stressing the Clamps by forcing them over the slightly larger diameter Bars.

I bought some 'generic' Fat-Bar Risers, and made a couple of Spacers to raise them enough to clear the Tank Covers on full lock.








There are two Rear Rim sizes available, 5", and 5.5".
The narrower Rim is on the NTX, as it's the more off-road oriented model, so you need that Rim to fit Dual-Purpose Tyres, they only go up to 150 section.
The Wider Rim takes a 180 Tyre.
I have the wide Rim on mine (a Griso Wheel), and a matching Griso front Wheel (17"), so I can (and do) use decent 'Sports' Tyres.
As expected, it feels like a Sports Bike, with MX Bars, handles superbly!

Interesting! While I was riding the Stelvio, I was wondering what the spare Shiver fat bar handlebars would feel like on it.

I don't care for spoke wheels for what will be a street bike only for me and had been looking at the aluminum Stelvio wheels that AF1 Racing sells. I'd really like 17" wheels front and rear. Does the smaller diameter front wheel not cause a problem with the ABS or any other systems? I wonder if a set of Norge wheels would work on a Stelvio NTX?

[guzzi ride]

The Norge wheels will work on the Stelvio. Not sure how a 17" front "Norge" would feel vs the 19" "Stelvio" ?
All the rears from Carc bikes interchange. You might have to play with some spacers on the front wheel.

[Huzo]

Disc spacing can become an issue..

[John Warner]

The Norge wheels will work on the Stelvio. Not sure how a 17" front "Norge" would feel vs the 19" "Stelvio" ?
All the rears from CARC bikes interchange . . .

As I said, it 'feels' like a big Sports Bike, with MX Bars!
I also had the original Forks raised as far as they would go (30mm), to drop the seat height.
I like my Bikes to be on the 'nervous' side of stable, so really quick-steering.
If I let go of the Bars at speeds from 20-40mph or so, they'd start to flap a little.
No hint of it in normal riding.

Doesn't do it now, with the 1200 MultiStrada Forks, but they're not raised as much, and the geometry is slightly different with it's Spindle in-line with the Fork Legs.

Interesting! While I was riding the Stelvio, I was wondering what the spare Shiver fat bar handlebars would feel like on it.

I don't care for spoke wheels for what will be a street bike only for me and had been looking at the aluminum Stelvio wheels that AF1 Racing sells. I'd really like 17" wheels front and rear. Does the smaller diameter front wheel not cause a problem with the ABS or any other systems?

As Guzzi Ride said, the Rear Wheel from any CARC Bike will bolt straight on, you just choose which of the two Rim widths you want.
My rear Wheel is a Griso item, and as such doesn't have the ABS Sensor mounting holes, so that's another thing to look for.
I had to drill and tap holes to mount the Sensor Ring.







I'm fairly sure all the 'Road' Bike fronts are the same (Griso, Norge, Sport, etc) but the Hub width may vary (Disc spacing).
It may be a model difference, or by year, or between 1100 and 1200.
Mine is from an early Griso (or at least was advertised as such), and the Hub is narrower by 8mm.

I had to machine up a couple of Spacers to move the Discs out 4mm each side.
But, the shoulder of the Hub that centres the Discs tapers slightly near the end, so simply spacing the Discs out with plain Spacers would leave a gap, and the Discs would only be centred by the Bolts.
I got the Shoulder machined parallel (too big for my Lathe), and made 'Top Hat' Spacers.




quick image host


When I came to fit the MultiStrada Forks, I found the Disc spacing was back to original (Caliper Mounts further in), so I took the Spacers off.
I still needed the gap between the centre of the Disc and the machined Hub shoulder filled, so parted off that part from the spacers I'd made.

Sounds a bit of a complex job, but I think if you were able to check/measure other model front Wheels, you may find one type goes straight in.

On Bikes with ABS, the Speed signal is taken from the front Wheel.
I had to alter the Speed 'correction' figure in the Map, via TunerPro (free download, just like GuzziDiag).
I now have it so it reads exactly the same as GPS speed.

[John Warner]

As I said, it 'feels' like a big Sports Bike, with MX Bars!
I also had the original Forks raised as far as they would go (30mm), to drop the seat height.
I like my Bikes to be on the 'nervous' side of stable, so really quick-steering.
If I let go of the Bars at speeds from 20-40mph or so, they'd start to flap a little.
No hint of it in normal riding.

Doesn't do it now, with the 1200 MultiStrada Forks, but they're not raised as much, and the geometry is slightly different with it's Spindle in-line with the Fork Legs.


As Guzzi Ride said, the Rear Wheel from any CARC Bike will bolt straight on, you just choose which of the two Rim widths you want.
My rear Wheel is a Griso item, and as such doesn't have the ABS Sensor mounting holes, so that's another thing to look for.
I had to drill and tap holes to mount the Sensor Ring.







I'm fairly sure all the 'Road' Bike fronts are the same (Griso, Norge, Sport, etc) but the Hub width may vary (Disc spacing).
It may be a model difference, or by year, or between 1100 and 1200.
Mine is from an early Griso (or at least was advertised as such), and the Hub is narrower by 8mm.

I had to machine up a couple of Spacers to move the Discs out 4mm each side.
But, the shoulder of the Hub that centres the Discs tapers slightly near the end, so simply spacing the Discs out with plain Spacers would leave a gap, and the Discs would only be centred by the Bolts.
I got the Shoulder machined parallel (too big for my Lathe), and made 'Top Hat' Spacers.




quick image host


When I came to fit the MultiStrada Forks, I found the Disc spacing was back to original (Caliper Mounts further in), so I took the Spacers off.
I still needed the gap between the centre of the Disc and the machined Hub shoulder filled, so parted off that part from the spacers I'd made.

Sounds a bit of a complex job, but I think if you were able to check/measure other model front Wheels, you may find one type goes straight in.
You could ask owners of various models to measure across the outside faces of their Discs, to find one(s) with the same spacing, then look for a used Wheel from that model/year.

On Bikes with ABS, the Speed signal is taken from the front Wheel.
I had to alter the Speed 'correction' figure in the Map, via TunerPro (free download, just like GuzziDiag).
I now have it so it reads exactly the same as GPS speed.