Anyone know a fiberglass repair shop? (For my side cases)

[Leo]

Hi everyone,

I need some fiberglass help: one of the fiberglass saddle bags / side cases (the left one) on my Ambassador managed to shear off its bolts somewhere on the Brooklyn Queens Expressway. It didn't fall off completely, but basically the metal mounting plate had come right out of the fiberglass.

Edit: the bolts secure a metal plate which then goes onto a mounting bolt onto a bracket.

I went and bought a fiberglass repair kit to try and do it myself... but it's clear I don't have time or know-how. Do you guys know anyone who can do that sort of work (affordably... hopefully...)?

Here's what it looks like:


And here's the other one that's not broken:



I'm in Philly now, if that helps.

Thanks!
 - Leo

[Kent in Upstate NY]

My surfer roommate in college used resin, hardener, and fiberglass mesh. Mix the resin and hardener and spread it over the repair area. lay on the mesh and cover with resin. Let harden, Sand and paint.

[charlie b]

Boat/RV repair shops.

Of find a shop that works on Corvettes or does custom hot rod work.  But, they could be expensive.

Other alternative is to look for a local hobby shop, one that has model airplanes.  Ask them if any people in the area de fiberglass work.

[Lannis]

...., Sand and paint.

That is SO easy to say, and SO difficult to do properly ... Unless you have a lot of natural talent OR a lot of training and experience, it's going to end up looking like a first-grader's paper-mache project ....   ;-T

Lannis

[ogsurf]

Look for a mobile marine repair guy. Ask at a marina. They are used to working with gelcoat finishes and they are pretty reasonable.
Maybe Roland at Spare Parts has an idea. That looks like a pretty easy repair if the color matching doesn't have to be spot on.

[ogsurf]

I've built a bunch of surfboards. This isn't a surfboard repair. If no one really sees this why not put some tape on the inside to dam off the repair. overfill the holes by a hair  with JB Weld, sand flush, redrill holes and hit it with some touchup paint.

[old as dirt 2]

I agree with finding a marine shop that does fiberglass work. those boat guys do some awfully great work. I work at a boat dealership and the guys who does our fiberglass is awesome. you can't tell his repairs from factory finish and he matches and blends metal flake in the gel coats.

[Leo]

The marine repair shop idea is a good one, thanks, I'll take a look! If anyone here has a recommendation, let me know.

[boatdetective]

The first problem is that there should be a backing plate on the inside of the bag. No properly fastened structure should allow the fasteners to just pull out.

Do NOT just fill the holes with JB.

-I would make a backing plate out of "garolite". It is a composite that's avalable in sheet form. Easy to cut and shape and it can be glued in place inside the bag. Don't be stingy- make it a decent size. Glue it in place, but prepare the surface. That means- don't just scuff it with scotch brite- gently feather the paint off with a grinder and rough up the glass.
The garolite backing plate can be shaped if need be to fit the inner surface of the bag (assuming there is a slight curve)

-You can bond the backer in place with JB if you'd like- or any other thickened epoxy.

-Now take the grinder and feather the outside of the bag with the grinder. Remember: finesse. You are looking to gently taper the glass away from the holes. Aim for a scarph ratio of at least 8:1 (if the bag is 1/8" thick, then taper out to 1" around the whole area)

-laminate glass in place with epoxy resin (NOT JB and NOT 5 minute stuff). You can get a small kit of two part repair resin.  Work the resin into the glass and smooth out witha  plastic squeegee.

-This area of the bag is hidden, so i wouldn't sweat the paint job. However, cover the repair with some type of paint to protect it from UV.

You can get anything you need from Jamestowndistributo rs.com.  I work in the marine industry and specialize in damage and repair. This is one of the first times i've ever heard someone refer to marine repairer's as "reasonable".  Trust me: do it yourself.  If you do what i tell you- your repair will be plenty strong and will use the best materials.

 

[ogsurf]

Boat detective

Open up transom box and re gel coat on a Nonsuch 22 - $325

Repair shattered glass and touch up gelcoat on ChrisCraft dory - $415

I thought these were pretty reasonable

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

The first problem is that there should be a backing plate on the inside of the bag. No properly fastened structure should allow the fasteners to just pull out.

Normally that plate has little stress on it and that's only lateral. Wixom made them with just a plate on the outside and washers on the inside, this is the only one I've ever seen that has failed in that manner. Yes, a plate on the inside as well would likely be a good idea.

[boatdetective]

Boat detective

Open up transom box and re gel coat on a Nonsuch 22 - $325

Repair shattered glass and touch up gelcoat on ChrisCraft dory - $415

I thought these were pretty reasonable

I know this is going to sound tremendously arrogant, but there you have it.
Over the past 25 years, I've worked from Galveston up around the Gulf, Florida, and up the East coast to Caribou, ME- with some side jaunts to the islands. That includes doing Cat work after 12 hurricanes. I know what this work costs. You are in NJ.  After Sandy- I would hardly call the work merciful. Of course, not all places.

As for the jobs you mention, I don't have a very good idea of the size or scope of work- so can't comment. This is a very small repair that is well within the reach of the owner. I thought he could pick up some new skills and save himself a couple hundred dollars.

[Leo]

I thought he could pick up some new skills and save himself a couple hundred dollars.

I'm seriously thinking about it after reading your comments. I think I'll go out and get some quotes from a few local boat fiberglass people, then see if it's worth it or not. I'd want to have a backing plate made as was mentioned above. I don't have a convenient space to work or a powersander, but I can clear off a table in the basement and I can sand by hand!

[atavar]

I've built a bunch of surfboards. This isn't a surfboard repair. If no one really sees this why not put some tape on the inside to dam off the repair. overfill the holes by a hair  with JB Weld, sand flush, redrill holes and hit it with some touchup paint.

I don't know if JB Weld is flexible enough for this application.  The same procedure with resin and some fiber fill would probably work great though.  Where the repair is it really doesn't need a perfect appearance.

[charlie b]

Very cool to add to your skill set if you want to.

As stated above, fiberglass work in a 'hidden' area is fairly simple to do.  The backing plate can be had from several suppliers, or, you could use a piece of thin plywood and fiberglass it in place.  You can pick up supplies at a local auto parts store.  They sell glass cloth, resin and hardener in kits or separately.  This isn't a structural deal so you don't need the really good stuff.

PS when cutting/chopping/sanding fiberglass wear a mask.  You might also wear a throw away long sleeve shirt.  Those little bits of stuff get everywhere.

I'm seriously thinking about it after reading your comments. I think I'll go out and get some quotes from a few local boat fiberglass people, then see if it's worth it or not. I'd want to have a backing plate made as was mentioned above. I don't have a convenient space to work or a powersander, but I can clear off a table in the basement and I can sand by hand!

[Madtownguzzi]

The West System 105K Fiberglass Boat Repair Kit should give you the results you are looking for. Amazon sells it and I am sure West Marine carries something similar. Check out the YouTube.


http://www.amazon.com/West-System-105K-Fiberglass-Repair/dp/B007D2QV5Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eggAzL9oQxg

[boatdetective]

Madtown- the kit idea sounds good- but they cheat you on the resin. It only comes in packets. For $30, it's a real ripoff.  I'd recommend getting a full quart kit. Trust me, once you become a convert, you will use it for other projects.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64343&familyName=TotalBoat+5%3A1+Epoxy+Kits

Although as a rule I don't like thin "boat cloth", it is cheap and easy to work with.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2071&familyName=Fiberglass+Cloth+-+10+Ounce

If you surf the Jamestown site- they have some very handy how to videos.

RE sanding- you really, really need to use a grinder. If you go to an autopart supply store, you can get "roloc" discs that will fit on a mandrill that you chuck up in a drill. Perfect for this project.

RE safety- absolutely, positively wear protective gear!! atomized fiberglass is nasty. I would wear a tyvek suit, full respirator, eye protection, and gloves . You can set up a shop vac right near the surface where you grind and it will (hopefully) suck most of the stuff up before it gets airborn (note that the dust will shoot off the disc in a streamand try to set up the vac accordingly).

Here's a great tip when sanding- use baby powder on any area of your skin that is exposed (wrists, neck, face). It will fill your pores and prevent the tiny bits of glass from getting in there. Shower with hot water to flush all the bits off you. If you wear normal clothes- it will only get embedded in your clothes. If you throw those pieces of clothes in the wash- it will get into the rest of your clothes.  I'm making it sound like nuclear waste- and it is not. However, you learn these lessons the hard way;)  Time spent setting up is well worth it.

I know, some of you are probably saying, "hell, just give it to someone rather than go through all that". There's some sense to that. However, this is handy stuff to get to know.

[mtiberio]

it is on the inside (between bag and bike), no? So this is a perfect time to practice your fiberglass skills. Yes, there should be a big fender washer or plate on the inside to back the whole thing up. When I was racing my fiberglass work was horrible. I used to mix resin and dip the precut piece of cloth in the resin mix and then slap it on the bodywork. Way too much resin. A buddy showed me. Put the dry cloth in place where you want it, and then drizzle a minimal amount of resin over the cloth. It will wick into place (you can always fill in bare spots). Lannis is right, you want the thing to be near perfect before sanding because sanding an ugly glass job is next to impossible. bondo is also your friend

[charlie b]

PS (again) you may not have to do any sanding of fiberglass at all.  Apply the fiberglass on the inside of the bags.  Use a couple of layers with reinforcing.  Use bondo on the outside to get it smooth.  Sanding bondo is a piece of cake.

That way you don't have to do the hazardous material gig.  ;)

[nsmith]

Check out the plumbing wholesale places. They always have a guy they use to fix tubs. The guy we use will saw a tub shower in half to get it into the bathroom and "fix" it back and no one can find the repair. This is in a room with bright lights and someone cleaning it every few weeks. If there is a flaw they will see it. Some of these guys are VERY good.

[Leo]

I have the west marine kit on my basement work table... will give it a shot next weekend.


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[Lannis]

RE safety- absolutely, positively wear protective gear!! atomized fiberglass is nasty. I would wear a tyvek suit, full respirator, eye protection, and gloves . You can set up a shop vac right near the surface where you grind and it will (hopefully) suck most of the stuff up before it gets airborn (note that the dust will shoot off the disc in a streamand try to set up the vac accordingly).

Here's a great tip when sanding- use baby powder on any area of your skin that is exposed (wrists, neck, face). It will fill your pores and prevent the tiny bits of glass from getting in there. Shower with hot water to flush all the bits off you. If you wear normal clothes- it will only get embedded in your clothes. If you throw those pieces of clothes in the wash- it will get into the rest of your clothes.  I'm making it sound like nuclear waste- and it is not. However, you learn these lessons the hard way;)  Time spent setting up is well worth it.

I know, some of you are probably saying, "hell, just give it to someone rather than go through all that". There's some sense to that. However, this is handy stuff to get to know.

Especially handy to get to know if you ALSO work with raw high-enriched uranium at the same time.   You won't have to even change clothes!    :D

They used to pay me a LOT to do that sort of thing ... no way I'm doing it to fix a set of saddlebags .... !   :o

Lannis