Unusual engine running

[SED]

One other thing to check - the float level.  I thought I knew how to do it... ::)

Dellorto floats with the spring loaded needle check the float level oriented like it shows in the pictures - with the float arm vertical and the intake throat of the carb sitting on the bench.  The needle will be pointing at the wall.  This puts very little load on the spring loaded needle and effectively raises the fuel level in the carb.  With my '83 LeMans this made a 2-3mm difference in float level and it runs much better - especially on warm-up. 

According to Greg Field the spring loaded plunger can wear too (so that one will stick out more than the other)- make sure they are the same.

Hope this helps.

[Bobbilljim]

It's funny you mention that! When I was rebuilding the carbs thinking that would solve the problem, I noticed the amount of fuel in the carb was really high. I borrowed a calibrated digital caliper from work and my measurements were correct so I tweaked the tab until the float level was where the other carb was that didn't leak. I re-measured and that's when I noticed the difference. Good point to first time carb builders! ;-T

I also replaced the float needle set and float with the new white ones from MG.

My problem was obstruction. The float itself was sliding laterally binding the needle valve not letting it seat properly. To test my theory I used the washer that flies off the top of a cherry max rivet to shim the float and sure enough it started sealing properly. The only reason I can figure why is the old green float that was in it before was a little heavier and wider than the white one. The white one in the other carb fits perfectly so I don't know why it's like that but it is.

I also put a new battery in it today and it cranks really good. It's not an Odessy, but it has 325 CCA and I think it's at least 19Ah, maybe more. Hopefully it will last me a while until I can save up for a good one.

Hopefully life will afford a moment actually get it running!

[Bobbilljim]

Ok, i dont get it. i finally got the bike to run some what ok with the Lft carburetor ended up about near the 1.5 turns out from stop on the air screw and the fuel screw 2 turns out.

The RH carb air screw is almost all the way out and the fuel screw is 3 1/2 turns out.

If that is what it takes then i guess that is what it takes. It just seems to me all parts being equal they should be similar.

Any thoughts?

[balvenie]

             Any damage to the respective seats?

[Bobbilljim]

Somebody hit me in the head. My sync bottles were leaking. Sealed them up and voila, tuneable carbs! Everything worked. At some point or another I used every tip in this thread and I know have a rideable bike, well, except for plates but that's no boggy... Lol.

I can't thank you all enough for your help and suggestions.

[balvenie]

We're happy for ya mate ;-T

[rodekyll]

 ;-T

Thanks for the report.

Remember that the techno-wiz stuff like balancing sticks should only be used to confirm what your spidey senses are already telling you about the state of tweak, and that the figures they give in the book are ballpark 'nominal' settings.  The actual settings for a given bike are a ymmv thing relative to both the book and the l/r symmetry of screws -- there are just too many variables in a used machine to expect gnats-gnuts precision.  When the bike is happy, you're happy.  Within limits, give it what it needs for contented s'miles.

[Bobbilljim]

;-T

Thanks for the report.

Remember that the techno-wiz stuff like balancing sticks should only be used to confirm what your spidey senses are already telling you about the state of tweak, and that the figures they give in the book are ballpark 'nominal' settings.  The actual settings for a given bike are a ymmv thing relative to both the book and the l/r symmetry of screws -- there are just too many variables in a used machine to expect gnats-gnuts precision.  When the bike is happy, you're happy.  Within limits, give it what it needs for contented s'miles.

Now that is some wisdom!