V65 final drive info

[fredfrenzy]

  The final drive on my '84 V65 took a dump this weekend. When in gear, rear will won't drive and makes a clicking sound when you spin it.   I haven't pulled it yet, was too discourage after hauling the bike back home from Laguna Seca vintage car races.   But I had a few general questions.   

    Are these things rebuild-able?   Does someone offer a service?  (I'm in SF bay area california).   What rear drives are compatible (V50III?) Does anyone have one they want to sell :) 

I looked around for a discussion thread, but couldn't find one.   Any info or pointers welcome.  I'm going to pull everything off this week, including drive shaft to get a visual on how bad it is, but I assume it's nasty.



thanks barry

 

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

You could try MG Classics, GuzziPower, or Harpers for parts..

DO you own Guzziology? There are 2 updates to older small block final drives, a simple fix of drilling oil access point to better lube the pinion gear....  also replacing some bolt retention plates with schnorr washers. Make sure the drive you replace with has had the updates.

As for rebuild, GuzziPower or Harpers may take in this work? Not sure.

As for interchangeability, several models have different primary gears...  Any non-lario v65 will be the same.. not sure about the v50/35 variants.. some may be the same, but those are also a lot more rare. Again this info is in guzziology, but I'm sure someone here will know.

[fredfrenzy]

Robin, thanks.    It's been 10years since I rebuilt the V65, so I'm a bit rusty :).  I do have a very old Guzziology - I'll dig through that tonight to get back up to speed :)

  I did do the drill for lubrication I'm petty sure - but don't remember anything with the retention plates.  I did have to replace the U-joint - it was very sloppy when I got the bike - that may have contributed to it's eventual death.

 I'll be pulling the driver and drive shaft, some more research and some phone calls ....

barry

[Guido Valvole]

Nice looking V65, what's the tank and how did you do rearsets? When the bevel box in my Monza puked magnetic metal flakes in the oil, I sent it to Sean Fader. Phone I have is 949 645-6686, couple of years ago. He's The Man for that sort of work but does it as a sideline to his day job. His shop is in Costa Mesa or somewhere in that vicinity. I disassembled (with help, thanks Patrick!) and got all of the bearings but still was somewhere around $750 all told. Rear drive is the only part of a Guzzi that thinks it's in a bevelhead Ducati, precise shimming necessary.
cr

[fredfrenzy]

Nice looking V65, what's the tank and how did you do rearsets? When the bevel box in my Monza puked magnetic metal flakes in the oil, I sent it to Sean Fader. Phone I have is 949 645-6686, couple of years ago. He's The Man for that sort of work but does it as a sideline to his day job. His shop is in Costa Mesa or somewhere in that vicinity. I disassembled (with help, thanks Patrick!) and got all of the bearings but still was somewhere around $750 all told. Rear drive is the only part of a Guzzi that thinks it's in a bevelhead Ducati, precise shimming necessary.
cr

Thanks, for the pointer to Sean.

The tank is an vintage Gus Kuhn fiberglass tank that I've resealed a few times :)    Originally for a Norton, I believe.

The rearsets I fabricated with SS stock using the stock mount point and the rear passenger/muffler mount along with some generic Tarozzi rearsets.  On the shift side I just cut the stock shift pedal, rotated it, drilled a hole and put link to the rearsets....pretty easy.



On the brake side - I had de-linked  the front/rear brakes.  Here I used a Ducati 916 rear master - the 916 uses an updated  rear F05 and has a remote reservoir so was just a straight swap.  Of course some fiddling to get the throw on the Tarrozi matching the master. (note, I did of course need to change out the front master to drive two F05s

[Chuck in Indiana]

That's a nice clean job on that V65.. Attaboy. 
Yes, Sean is the man for small block stuff. You'll probably be better off financially finding a low mileage unit and swapping it in, though. You'll find out soon enough once you tear into it.

[malik]

The same thing happened to my V7C - the drive shaft was rusted & the splines on the final drive end distorted & jammed & failed to drive the wheel.  Replaced the drive shaft & now grease the shaft every tyre change.

Agostini Mandello still have a small block drive shaft on their Special Offers (at E183) which may fit your very fine V65 - http://www.agostinimandello.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=40&Itemid=59.

Mal

[fredfrenzy]

The same thing happened to my V7C - the drive shaft was rusted & the splines on the final drive end distorted & jammed & failed to drive the wheel.  Replaced the drive shaft & now grease the shaft every tyre change.

Agostini Mandello still have a small block drive shaft on their Special Offers (at E183) which may fit your very fine V65 - http://www.agostinimandello.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=40&Itemid=59.

Mal

I think it's the final drive box, not the drive shaft, but until I pull it (hopefully this week) I won't know for sure.  Thanks for the link.
barry

[fredfrenzy]

I think it's the final drive box, not the drive shaft, but until I pull it (hopefully this week) I won't know for sure.  Thanks for the link.
barry

Just pulled the final drive...pinion gears look good.  Now to pull the drive shaft

[Chuck in Indiana]

Just pulled the final drive...pinion gears look good.  Now to pull the drive shaft

Well.. ok..pull that sucker out of there..

[fredfrenzy]

Well.. ok..pull that sucker out of there..

Had to finish installing a stove for the wife    so I've been stealing bits of time in the garage - need to pull the shaft and do a full end to end inspection.  Maybe tonite.

[fredfrenzy]

Ok - finally got everything out and examined.  The good news is the the bevel gears actually look pretty good, but unfortunately the bearings holding the bevel shaft are shot and have substantial play.   



Looks like this generated enough play to chew off the splines on the end of the drive shaft



and eat up the splines on the coupler - this is why the drive shaft was spinning freely.



The splines on the other end of the bevel shaft, aren't too bad, but did take something of a beating.

A mess - so I'm going to look for a replacement of both the rear drive box and the driveshaft/U-joint.   I've got a good lead on both.

[malik]

Doesn't sound pretty at all. The best of luck. It's still better than chains & sprokets.

Mal

[John A]

Have you done the mod to the rear box where you drill a hole for the oil to the pinion bearings and rotate the plate to force oil there?

[Chuck in Indiana]

Have you done the mod to the rear box where you drill a hole for the oil to the pinion bearings and rotate the plate to force oil there?

I'd say that probably hasn't been done.. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

If it's just the splines on the shaft and coupler perhaps you just weld those together and get a few more miles out of them while you locate new parts.

Sorry, the pictures of the damage don't show on my Mac

[fredfrenzy]

 I did the drill 10 years ago and the pinion gears actually look fine, it was the bearings that hold the pinion gear shaft that have play....



and I believe started the wobble that destroyed the couplers and the end of the u-joint drive shaft.


I have a used drive box and U-Joint and the goodies on it's way to me.....

[kevdog3019]

 I did the drill 10 years ago and the pinion gears actually look fine, it was the bearings that hold the pinion gear shaft that have play....



and I believe started the wobble that destroyed the couplers and the end of the u-joint drive shaft.


I have a used drive box and U-Joint and the goodies on it's way to me.....

I found the same with my stock Lario some years back. Talk about loose!