Clutch interlock microswitch on 1200 Sport ...how to adjust?

[ohiorider]

I noticed today when I stalled the engine in first gear, the bike would not start with the clutch handle pulled into the bar.  Checked the microswitch and found that the clutch handle isn't depressing the spring loaded button on the switch.  Before I start watching small pieces and parts fall to the ground, does anyone know how to adjust the gap between the clutch handle and the switch?  Didn't seem to be any elongated slots in the switch that would permit it to be moved to close the gap.

I am thinking that this may be the reason for high idle once I put the bike in gear.  Software is probably looking for a depressed microswitch button, and not seeing it, assumes the clutch is engaged and I'm ready to move out.  Only a thought ....



EDIT: Since Day One, I've ridden with the clutch handle adjusted to the #4 position.  Perhaps over time, the switch button has worn down.  I found I could cure the problem by setting the clutch handle to #3 position.  Positions 1 and 2 depress the button further, but both positions are a 'reach' for my hand size.  3 barely depresses it, but enough so the bike will now start in gear with the clutch handle pulled into the bar.  Next test ..... see if the switch plays a part in the high idle when in gear, even with clutch handle pulled to the bar.

[ITSec]

I haven't seen too many of these that were adjustable, on any bike. I'd check for wear (and therefore play) in the lever and especially in the main pin that is the axle for the lever - half the time that's why I end up replacing my levers...

[Kiwi Dave]

Can't imagine that there has been any wear, Bob.  Are you sure that the little nut that holds the microswitch on is tightened (or missing)?

Edit.  I had a brand new switch fail, the plastic thread just came apart.  If you haven't already, I would remove it and see if there is any physical damage.

[ohiorider]

Dave, if you're referencing the 10mm nut that threads on over the plunger, it is on, and it is tight.  Thanks for taking time to respond.  I may pick up a new switch, or see if I can add a little tip to the plunger to make it just a tad longer ..... no more than a few mm (1/16 -3/32").  I can already tell the number 3 position is out further from the bar than I like.

BTW - the driveway 'hi idle' test was probably way too short, but I noticed absolutely no change in engine note when I put the bike in first gear and kept the clutch handle pulled.  That's a good thing!  I'll run to the grocery store shortly. 

[ohiorider]

I haven't seen too many of these that were adjustable, on any bike. I'd check for wear (and therefore play) in the lever and especially in the main pin that is the axle for the lever - half the time that's why I end up replacing my levers...

That's a high likelihood.  I'm up and down through the gears quite a bit, and 60,000 miles of wear and tear has made the handle a bit sloppy.  I'll check it out.  That would be a reasonable fix.

[ITSec]

The parts designed as sacrificial (intended to wear first) are #3 and the actual clutch lever pivot hole that it connects through. Once these are worn, the play allows the lever to move enough that it will fail to reliably depress the pin on the microswitch.

[ohiorider]

The parts designed as sacrificial (intended to wear first) are #3 and the actual clutch lever pivot hole that it connects through. Once these are worn, the play allows the lever to move enough that it will fail to reliably depress the pin on the microswitch.

Makes sense.  I'll pull up the part number and contact the dealer where I'm still running a small credit for a return.  Hopefully, that'll cover the cost.  Thanks for the advice.

Bob

[ITSec]

Part # used to be GU03604845 for the 2v Norge circa 2009 or so. It includes the pin and the locknut from what I read.

The levers, being aluminum (aluminium for you Limeys), wear as you would expect - but the pin itself also wears, flattening on the forward side, especially towards the bottom.