Roller Tappets Valve Adjustment Schedule 8V vs 4V?

[Cool Runnings]

In the real world will the roller tappet bikes valves stay in spec way longer than the flat tappet ones?

What have the experienced people discovered?

I heard, adjustment is easier on the 8V vs 4V?

I'm very new to the Guzzi world, so call me a beginner!

[Wayne Orwig]

Easier on the 8V, not really. You have to deal with the fragile spark plug caps on the 8V. A few less screws.
All meaningless. All Guzzis have relatively easy to get to valves.

I can't say for sure yet on wear, I'll know more later in the year, but there should be less wear, and less clearance change, with the rollers.
Again, meaningless. Since the Guzzis are so darn easy to do valve adjustments on. Even a lawyer can do it.

[ChuckH]

I have no experience on the 4V engines but I find the valves in my 8V Stelvio (with rollers) to be quite easy.

As was said, take it easy when removing the spark plug caps or you will be replacing them.  The easiest way is to place a wire-tie around the wire (loosely), place your finger in the opening of the wire-tie, bring the wire-tie to the upper corner of the plug cap and then lift/slowly wiggle the wire-tie vertically until the cap comes off. Do not put any pressure on the sides of the plug cap.  Much has been said about how and what to replace the plug caps with after they fail.  They do not fail if removed correctly.

As far as wear with the roller tappets -- my Stelvio has generally been one or two thousands off, either loose or tight, on some of the valves when I set them.  Only this last setting, at 32K miles, were all of the valves still very close to the previous setting.  I believe they are finally beginning to fully seat-in.

Hope this helps.

[triman023]

To remove the spark plug caps, I wrap a shoelace around the cap under the right angle bend and gently pull up. The cloth shoelace
protects the lead from damage.

[MGPilot]

In talking to the shop at Moto International, they claim that the 8v's:
 - take less time to adjust (including factoring in fewer fasteners)
 - hold their adjustment so well that you could argue for a longer maintenance interval on them.

[Cool Runnings]

In talking to the shop at Moto International, they claim that the 8v's:
 - take less time to adjust (including factoring in fewer fasteners)
 - hold their adjustment so well that you could argue for a longer maintenance interval on them.

Thanks NP, I'm thinking after the initial 620 mile service, once a year valve check could be more than sufficient?

[ChuckH]

Thanks NP, I'm thinking after the initial 620 mile service, once a year valve check could be more than sufficient?

It really depends on your annual mileage and how well you plan on maintaining the bike.  The change interval on engine oil/filter is 6K miles.  That's also a nice time to do the valves.  The rear drive and transmission fluids can be pushed out to 12K miles without too much risk.

[canuguzzi]

Thanks NP MG, I'm thinking after the initial 620 mile service, once a year valve check could be more than sufficient?

There you go, appropriate credit.

Now, since you have a new Norge, just follow the schedule of service as outlined in the owners manual. It takes the guess work out of it, protects your warranty and lets you ride the thing without worrying about any of it.

The more knowledgeable can correct me but valve checks are done according to miles and time the engine is run (like if you sit there idling a lot and riding not so much) and not the amount of time that passes.

IOTW, if you checked the valves and they are good,  and then don't ride it again for 6 months (ouch) a valve check isn't going to be needed after those 6 months.

Perhaps not making it a bigger concern than it needs to be would be helpful. Ride it, check and adjust the valves per schedule, a little more often if you impart severe conditions of operation and just enjoy the Norge. Get to know the engine, it will let you know if something seems amiss.

No doubt, the above is completely contrary to how it should be done.

[ohiorider]

It really depends on your annual mileage and how well you plan on maintaining the bike.  The change interval on engine oil/filter is 6K miles.  That's also a nice time to do the valves.  The rear drive and transmission fluids can be pushed out to 12K miles without too much risk.

That's what I do on the 1200 Sport.  Tranny and final drive fluid changes every other oil change.  I figure if that's good enough for an old Beemer airhead with 146k miles, it's good enough for the Sport, which turned 62,000 miles end of 2015 season.

[MGPilot]

Just to be clear, I would not suggest changing the maintenance interval.

The shop simply said that they have seen so few that actually needed adjustment, you could make the case for changing it.

I doubt they would actually recommend doing that.

Just today, adopting a new Norge, I have every intention of following the maintenance schedule for my bike.

[ChuckH]

I can't say for sure yet on wear, I'll know more later in the year, but there should be less wear, and less clearance change, with the rollers....

This will be interesting to see.  Changes in the settings are due to "bedding-in" (new engine) or "wear" (older engine).  Seems like the roller tappet engines have more interfaces of components and, therefore, more chances for change to occur.

Let us know how it comes out.

[MGrego]

In the real world will the roller tappet bikes valves stay in spec way longer than the flat tappet ones?

What have the experienced people discovered?

I heard, adjustment is easier on the 8V vs 4V?

I'm very new to the Guzzi world, so call me a beginner!

Cool Runnings, you might consider one thing the "experienced people" have recommended regarding valve adjustment on the 8V roller engine.

Set the valve gaps to .004 inch on the inlet and .006 inch on the exhaust - This is a little tighter than the factory spec, but the idea is that as the engine heats up, expansion causes the gap to increase to a more ideal spec.

[ChuckH]

CR,

Naturally, you can set the valves in your engine as you so desire. 

However, in the World of Guzzi, I've always considered Jim B. of Rose Farm Classics to be about as "experienced" as you can find.  When I asked him what the settings were to be on my '12 roller tappet engine, the answer was a solid .006"/.008" (Int./Exh.).  I've been setting that way ever since.

Ride safe. 

[canuguzzi]

Just to be clear, I would not suggest changing the maintenance interval.

The shop simply said that they have seen so few that actually needed adjustment, you could make the case for changing it.

I doubt they would actually recommend doing that.

Just today, adopting a new Norge, I have every intention of following the maintenance schedule for my bike.

 

The roller engines are great and just run. It's usually the stuff attached to them that have the issues.