Strange Circumstances

[atavar]

So, unrelated (I think) I replaced the aux driving lights on the Norge.
When going to ride to check them out on the road somewhere along the way unbeknownst to be the  40A mains fuse blew with no indicators.
This is where it gets interesting.
After the main 40A fuse blew the bike started running better than it ever has in it's life.  I don't know how to explain it, it just got smooth, more power, more torque.  What I call the "Harley" idle went away, you know where it sort of goes ptrrrrrrrrtrrrrrrtr rrrrrrptrrrr..  and it started going prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrr and hitting on every single power stroke.  This was a drastic enough change to notice immediately.
No lights, no wrench, no triangle, it just stopped charging (I didn't know this yet) and started running better.
Shortly (a couple blocks or 5 minutes) after this the idle climbed to 2500 RPM (computer trying to fix lost charge current?). sort of embarrassing at stop lights but running great even if fast.  If I pulled the idle back down to 1K with the clutch it was still idling perfect but wanted to go to 2500.
After another ten minutes while I was still puzzling over what was happening the the ABS light came on.  FYI on Norge if ABS light comes on it is a very good time to look for a parking spot and check your charge voltage. 
About two minutes after the ABS light came on the lights started to dim, then the dash went black, then  the engine started to miss and finally stalled as I tried to limp home.
The main point of this is that I really really want to get that super smooth more power mode that happened after the fuse blew back back.  Do you think the FI went open loop or something?  Is it time for a TB balance? 
Please educate me..

BTW, replaced the 40A fuse, charge current is fine, everything is just like it was a week ago..

[rodekyll]

It's the drag on the crankshaft made by the alternator that makes the difference.  So if you get that feeling back, something is wrong.

[atavar]

Rats, I was hoping there was something I could do to make it run as nice as it did without the alternator drag.  It never missed a beat. 

[mrrick]

t's the drag on the crankshaft made by the alternator that makes the difference.
This is a tongue-in-cheek reply, I'm guessing?

[atavar]

t's the drag on the crankshaft made by the alternator that makes the difference.
This is a tongue-in-cheek reply, I'm guessing?

I dunno, I think I'm gonna pull the fuse and see if it starts running better again. 

[rodekyll]

t's the drag on the crankshaft made by the alternator that makes the difference.
This is a tongue-in-cheek reply, I'm guessing?

Nope -- serious.

Do be careful connecting and disconnecting wires/fuses in the charging circuit.  It could get expensive in a hurry.

[guzzisteve]

I just put on an alt belt that had come apart. He didn't say anything about the bike running better.   It did seem smoother before I put the belt on and set the tension. This I noticed first hand.

[atavar]

The drag from the alternator is a valid possibility.  The lie to that theory is that the bike should then run noticeably better when the battery is fully charged vs when it is low, or when running high beams vs low beams, grip heaters or not..  et.al.. 
I know I am stretching a lot but I am thinking there is no cleaner power source than a fully charged battery with a moderate steady load.  When I get a chance I will try to put a scope on the battery and see if maybe I have a weak diode in the rectifier that is creating some noise while charging.  That could affect the computer by creating false triggers on sensor signals.  Theoretically in a closed loop circuit that should cancel itself out but we all know the difference between theory and reality. 
Perhaps when the fuse was not in the circuit so the charging system was off line the computer enjoyed the cleaner voltage from the battery. 
I am not cognizant of all the inner workings of the computer though, so it is also eminently possible that without the charge the computer went in to limp home mode (or some other mode) which happens to work extremely well near idle.