Author Topic: 600 Mile Service Completed On My New Norge (Read 6586 times)

Dave Swanson · « **on:** June 28, 2016, 08:37:44 PM »

I rolled into my garage with 600 miles on the clock and started draining fluids.

The CARC drain plug magnet has what I thought was a normal amount of fuzz.

The transmission drain plug magnet looked about the same.

The engine drain plug magnet had very little fuzz which is what you should expect.

Filling the trans and CARC was easy with this little screw on gadget.

Filling the engine was no muss no fuss with this pump set up.

Pulling the infamous spark plug boots was easy with a tug on this tie wrap that I looped under the boot.

I checked the valve lash, and all 8 were still within the spec. .006 Intake and .008 exhaust.

Checked the throttle body sync with my Twin Max and it required a bit of touching up. The idle balance needed touching up also.

Then I reset the TPS with GuzziDiag, and reset the learning parameters, put the lower plastic back on and went for a ride. SWEET!

Each element by itself was no big deal, but in aggregate it is a bit of an effort.

All was made so much easier by those that post all the "how to's" that we sometimes take for granted. The Guzzi community is very cool. Nothing out there like it.

Cool Runnings · « **Reply #1 on:** June 28, 2016, 08:49:45 PM »

Actually it's a 1,000 mile service, you will need code 28315 to reset the 'wrench' at 1,000 miles.

I did the same, had first service at 600 miles.

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #2 on:** June 28, 2016, 08:53:27 PM »

Thanks for the code!

Cam3512 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 29, 2016, 04:02:49 AM »

Quote from: Cool Runnings on June 28, 2016, 08:49:45 PM

Actually it's a 1,000 mile service, you will need code 28315 to reset the 'wrench' at 1,000 miles.

I did the same, had first service at 600 miles.

On my V7 first service was @ 1000 km, about 600 miles.

pete roper · « **Reply #4 on:** June 29, 2016, 05:13:20 AM »

Dave, it'll run nicer with the valve lash set at 4 & 6 thou. It will take a few hours to trim to it if you are using the stock map because it's CL but the slightly longer duration will help with the overly rich mixture when it goes OL, (At most points in the engine speed range. Not all.). You don't need to worry about the tappets riding the cams. The clearances open up in normal use.

Pete

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #5 on:** June 29, 2016, 05:48:22 AM »

Pete, I was debating that! I will set the lash to the 4 and 6 today.

I am running Beetle's map.

K250 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2016, 06:16:23 AM »

Nice write up and pictures, thanks for the post.

pete roper · « **Reply #7 on:** June 29, 2016, 06:16:44 AM »

All Mark's roller maps were designed for 4 & 6.

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #8 on:** June 29, 2016, 08:29:44 PM »

.004 and .006 it is. Running very well!!

sbaker · « **Reply #9 on:** June 29, 2016, 08:35:33 PM »

Have you done the canaster-ectomy yet??

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #10 on:** June 29, 2016, 08:36:49 PM »

Quote from: sbaker on June 29, 2016, 08:35:33 PM

Have you done the canaster-ectomy yet??

Not yet. Haven't put much thought into that one.

JeffOlson · « **Reply #11 on:** June 30, 2016, 03:05:39 PM »

^ I am going to do the canister-ectomy soon. I want that storage space beneath my seat!

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #12 on:** June 30, 2016, 07:15:37 PM »

All I can say is wow! As the learning parameters readjust to a new way of life with Beetles map, Roper's spec on the valve lash, and a good tune up this Norge just keeps getting better and better. I went on a 200 mile ride and it feels so much better now than when starting out. This Norge romps and stomps now! So good! Thanks to all.

pete roper · « **Reply #13 on:** June 30, 2016, 11:59:27 PM »

Mark's maps are all open loop, (Lambda off.) so the ECU doesn't trim the fuel as it does with the factory closed loop maps. In theory, once the parameters have been re-set to baseline they shouldn't need re-setting again with an OL map but we always do it because a.) It's so simple and b.) We can't be absolutely certain that one of the 'Non Adjustable' tables may have some input when the TPS value changes and is re-set during a *Normal* TB balance.

As I said, it's so simple why not do it? In fact the whole tuning process for a W5AM Guzzi is so delightfully simple I really can't understand why corn cob pipists are frightened of it! It's a damn sight easier and simpler than buggering about with points and carbs.

Pete

AH Fan · « **Reply #14 on:** July 01, 2016, 12:15:34 AM »

Hey Dave .......... thx for all that.
I'm running Beeetles map on my 2014 and have found a few times when cold...... I'm cranking a bit to get mine to fire and run???
Any ideas? Pete.... your up as well.
Seems to run fine after the starting fit however.

Ciao

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #15 on:** July 01, 2016, 06:29:22 AM »

Quote from: AH Fan on July 01, 2016, 12:15:34 AM

Hey Dave .......... thx for all that.
I'm running Beeetles map on my 2014 and have found a few times when cold...... I'm cranking a bit to get mine to fire and run???
Any ideas? Pete.... your up as well.
Seems to run fine after the starting fit however.

Ciao

Yes, I have the same "issue" here. It is a very minor thing, but was going to mention it to Mark. Perhaps the next update might have a tweak to the start up.

Idontwantapickle · « **Reply #16 on:** July 01, 2016, 06:35:01 PM »

Quote from: Dave Swanson on June 30, 2016, 07:15:37 PM

All I can say is wow! This Norge romps and stomps now! So good! Thanks to all.

If you think it's good now just wait until it has 10K on it! They only get better!

rboe · « **Reply #17 on:** July 01, 2016, 06:42:49 PM »

Dang, I have not seen the oil pumper gadget, that is pretty cool! How do you track how much has gone in (or that you have pumped enough)?

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #18 on:** July 01, 2016, 07:18:51 PM »

Rboe, the graduations on the Motul jug were pretty accurate.

Xlratr · « **Reply #19 on:** July 02, 2016, 06:06:05 AM »

Dave, I noticed in your original post you mentioned that "The idle needed touching". Just wondering what you did to adjust that.

pete roper · « **Reply #20 on:** July 02, 2016, 07:07:02 AM »

(Urkk!) Missed that. I do hope you didn't mess with the throttle stop screw?

Zoom Zoom · « **Reply #21 on:** July 02, 2016, 07:16:37 AM »

Just a quick word of caution Dave, where you were pulling the spark plug cap from is where they generally crack and leak electricity to nearby metal parts. (Right on the underside at the angle.)

Prior to replacing my caps on the Stelvio, I did something similar. I used a Ty-Rap around the body of the boot just below that, and put another tie as a loop sticking up through that. That way, you're pulling from below the angle part. It was still a pain, but I didn't have any trouble with a cracked boot.

John Henry

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #22 on:** July 02, 2016, 07:20:53 AM »

Quote from: Xlratr on July 02, 2016, 06:06:05 AM

Dave, I noticed in your original post you mentioned that "The idle needed touching". Just wondering what you did to adjust that.

Bad nomenclature reference on my part! My old school is leaking out!! No I did not go near the sacred screw!!

Instead should have said air bleed screws. As part of the tune up process the throttle bodies synchronization (balance) must be checked.

The following is copied from Pete Ropers How To. I am sure Pete's article is on WG somewhere but I haven't been able to find it. I did find it over at GrisoGhetto.

Before the 4,000 rpm balance can be checked the air bleed screws must be closed. These are located under the throttle body tubes.

RH

LH

Then hook up your manometer of choice. Hook up GuzziDiag start the bike with a decent sized fan blowing on it and let the engine temp come up to 60F.

Run the engine up to 4000rpm and check balance. If you have a Throttlemeister or something similar they are a great help if you are doing this solo.

If the 4K rpm balance is out you will touch it up with the bellcrank adjuster on the left side. My bike needed a minor adjustment.

Shut the engine off and check TPS with GuzziDiag it will probably be off if you had to make an adjustment. If off from the 4.6 to 4.8 reset TPS with the Guzzidiag Actors function.

Now the idle balance needs to be checked. If one side is pulling more vacuum than the other on your manometer that is the side that will need the air bleed screw opened up. My LH screw needed less that a 1/4 turn out to balance at idle.

Thanks Pete, hope you don't mind the plagarism!!

Dave Swanson · « **Reply #23 on:** July 02, 2016, 07:22:45 AM »

Quote from: Zoom Zoom on July 02, 2016, 07:16:37 AM

Just a quick word of caution Dave, where you were pulling the spark plug cap from is where they generally crack and leak electricity to nearby metal parts. (Right on the underside at the angle.)

Prior to replacing my caps on the Stelvio, I did something similar. I used a Ty-Rap around the body of the boot just below that, and put another tie as a loop sticking up through that. That way, you're pulling from below the angle part. It was still a pain, but I didn't have any trouble with a cracked boot.

John Henry

John, thanks for the information. My boots popped off very easy so I am sure no damage was done, but will keep it in mind for the future as they might grab hold more as time goes by.

MLR · « **Reply #24 on:** July 02, 2016, 07:55:26 AM »

Don't be surprised if you have to replace them after taking them on & off a few times, the stock caps are pretty fragile. I've found the best method to get them off is levering them off from the bottom with a long thin screw driver inserted through the air channel in the back of the head.

MGrego · « **Reply #25 on:** July 02, 2016, 08:25:12 AM »

Quote from: Xlratr on July 02, 2016, 06:06:05 AM

Dave, I noticed in your original post you mentioned that "The idle needed touching". Just wondering what you did to adjust that.

Thanks for asking that, I was perplexed by what he meant by that as well-- then great explanation from OP !

News:

Author Topic: 600 Mile Service Completed On My New Norge (Read 6586 times)

pete roper

K250

pete roper

pete roper

pete roper