V50-III ignition rehab by a shade-bush mechanic

[not-fishing]

I consider myself a shade-bush mechanic because I'm just a hack.  Even so, I can fix a few things.

For the last 3 months I've been working with an aftermarket ignition suppler to upgrade my ignition and suffice it to say it's not working.  So to run-down possible problems those smarter than me had the idea that my voltage regulator might be spiking was floated and may be the problem.   I being stubborn as a Mule wanted to know what the problem was them or me.   

So I had to put on my old dual points ignition, complete, from scratch Good Lord do I hate messing with dual points

First I had to clean, polish and oil the centrifugal advance mechanism then install it back on the cam end.

Then I had to clean and put on the points cam in the right direction.  Lucky for me the book says to place the points cam marking opposite the advance plate marking.  otherwise there'd be a 50/50 chance I'd get it wrong

Next (WD40) oil the points cam oiler and set the points plate over the cam.  After feeler-gauging the points I found them way off, say double + the correct distance.  I also found the points set screw to be partially broken off in the plate.  Remove the points plate again.   A little trip to Ace Hardware netted me two nice 4 mm x 7 mm allen screws with washers.  Some time with needle nose vice grips and I had the points reattached correctly.  Gap-ping the points to .35mm > .45mm wasn't that hard.

Finally came guessing the proper location for the plate and the start.  it's a shade bush thing

Little Goose started but timing light wouldn't bring up the timing mark.  Turn the points plate clockwise yeah I was guessing and restart.

Bike ran better but still no timing mark.  Turn points plate clockwise again - no timing mark but it ran better- turn points plate clockwise again - not timing mark but it started easier - again-again.  I think it was my 6th try that I could see the timing mark.  On my final "adjustment" the timing was spot-on.  She starts easily and I swear she has 20% or so more power.     

I still have to do a voltage /  rev test looking for spikes but I'm not sure if I want the fancy ignition anymore.  out of lazyness more than anything else

Downside is now I have to recheck my revised jetting.

If I'd been a real mechanic I probably would have diagnosed and fixed the points first then see how she runs before buying an ignition upgrade.

I'm just amazed at how out of tune she can be and still run.....  which is good for me

Mark

[normzone]

I consider myself a shade-bush mechanic because I'm just a hack.  Even so, I can fix a few things.
I'm just amazed at how out of tune she can be and still run.....  which is good for me

Same feelings about my Bassa. Someday I'll find out if this is how it's supposed to be running.

[BMCMOTO]

WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is a primarily a solvent and removes lubricants.  Please go to a VW or other European independent repair facility and get some Bosch point cam grease.  Point rubbing blocks wear very quickly with proper lubrication.  The Dyna S for small blocks is a wonderful thing.

Brian

[Markcarovilli]

WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is a primarily a solvent and removes lubricants.  Please go to a VW or other European independent repair facility and get some Bosch point cam grease.  Point rubbing blocks wear very quickly with proper lubrication.  The Dyna S for small blocks is a wonderful thing.

Brian

Or this works well from Ace Hardware or Harbor Freight also carries it:

Super Lube® Synthetic Grease (21030)
Item no: 8138307 | 082353210305
$9.59
 
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