LED Daytime Riding Lights

[kfz]

Anyone any advice on fitting daytime riding lights to older Tonti's with marginal Bosch or Saprisa charging for use in built up areas?

I quite like the idea of the clean bright LED lamps that cosume a fraction of the power of the headlight. Preferably wired to the sidelamp circuit.  Maybe there is a direct replacement bulb or you can convert a bicycle lamp to 12 volts and mount in somewhere?

Most bicycle ones seem to use a 8.4v battery pack, maybe you can step down the 12v to something suitable for the battery pack? 

I dont know, but before I start messing around but before I start thought I'd ask.

Kev

[canuck750]

Buy a bike specific LED riding light (or pair) that runs direct from the battery through a relay. I have fitted several pair of Denali lights to bikes in the past couple years (Twisted Throttle), they are great night and day, I always have them on, they are very bright on high beam.

[Triple Jim]

Take a look at the LED headlight bulbs at Advmonster.  I have an H4 LED bulb in my Mille's headlight bucket, which is a Bosch type and as you said, it's very visible, and draws less current than quartz-halogen versions.

[jas67]

Take a look at the LED headlight bulbs at Advmonster.  I have an H4 LED bulb in my Mille's headlight bucket, which is a Bosch type and as you said, it's very visible, and draws less current than quartz-halogen versions.

 :1:

I've got the "Mesh Monster H4" in both my V7 Special and Racer.    Nice and bright.     When Cam followed me on my V7S, I realized just how much brighter and more noticeable it is vs. the stock halogens the other bikes had.

Another member here says that the new R3 H4 is longer and doesn't fit :-(

[Farmer Dan]

Take a look at the LED headlight bulbs at Advmonster.  I have an H4 LED bulb in my Mille's headlight bucket, which is a Bosch type and as you said, it's very visible, and draws less current than quartz-halogen versions.

Jim, what H4 are you using?  I was considering the Native H4 for my Eldorado but I'm worried about there being enough room in the bucket and also worried about heat dissipation.  Can you give advice on either?

[Triple Jim]

Dan, I'm probably not the right person to give advice here.  The LED H4 I'm currently using is a Chinese cheapie I got from eBay to replace the identical $50 one I got from Cyclops Adventure Sport when it failed a couple weeks out of warrently.

If I were going to buy one for day and night use, I think I'd probably get one of the ones from ADV Monster that has good low beam cutoff.  The only thing I can suggest to be sure it fits is get the dimensions, including the distance from the mounting flange to its rear end, and then figure out a way to measure that in your bucket.

[charlie b]

I'd follow Jim's advice.  I have a Cyclops LED and the low beam cutoff is the part that I don't like about it.  But, it fixed the issue with the stock alternator. 

I also added two LED spotlights and the total draw was less than a std H4 bulb.  I like the single CREE LED lights.

[rodekyll]

If what you want is simply daylight visibility there is not need for a headlight-grade LED.  A switchback marker light or angel eye would give the same daylight visibility for under 10w.

Just a thought.

[Wayne Orwig]

On my 2004 EV, I had 55 watt driving lights. I designed a dimmer that would automatically dim them when the battery voltage was low. At ever red light or stopped traffic, they would quickly dim and save that battery.
Then, I switched to LED lights. I left the dimmer in place only I modified it a little. I run the LED driving lights at about 20% power during the day. Then at night, they are off, or at 100% power with the high beam. Those LEDs are rated at I believe it is 20 watts. They have worked great for years and years now. I think they were $60 for the pair. Those don't load the battery much, so the dimmer didn't often have to dim them any more.
Then, I switched to a 35 watt HID driving light. Even MORE light now, and even less load on the battery. Now the dimmer never needs to dim the driving lights, ever, to save the battery. And I have a great amount of light for my nighttime ride home from work.
I also switched to an LED brake light, but I did that just for more light. It doesn't save much power.

So now I can run heated grips, electric vests (two up), and still have plenty of power left over.

[kfz]

If what you want is simply daylight visibility there is not need for a headlight-grade LED.  A switchback marker light or angel eye would give the same daylight visibility for under 10w.

Just a thought.

Tell me about angel eye. Its this right?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CF-60mm-1210-SMD-18-LED-Vehicle-Car-Angel-Eyes-Ring-Lights-White-2-Pcs-/221750270939?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Supposed to epoxy this in the headlamp.  Like the sound of this.

Kev

[rodekyll]

Yes that's similar to some I just bought to rim my 55w HID projectors on the Rodekyll.  Mine are a 'switchback' design, which mean they are white daylight markers, but go amber for turn --- just wire them in to the ignition and turn circuits.  They could well satisfy your daylight 'headlight on' rule with less than 10w budget.  So I can toss my post-mounted turn signals (hate posts at a design level) and add daylights at the same time.  Pay close attention to the diameter for fit and the effect you want, and remember that there is a lot of crap quality stuff out there.  The key word is 'epoxy'.  That's like a tatoo.  Choose well.