CARC swing arm removal

[tris]

One of my winter jobs is to remove the swing arm on my B11 to check/grease all the bearings

I understand that the special castellated socket is not really needed so have been looking at adjustable "C"/hook spanners.

I was looking at this adjustable one  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19-51mm-Chrome-Vanadium-Adjustable-Hook-Wrench-C-Spanner-Tool-P5-/171953684751?hash=item28093d010f:g:yhcAAOSw4HVWC8jx


Does anyone know what the OD of the nut is to confirm that this tool has the range to work?

[Lannis]

One of my winter jobs is to remove the swing arm on my B11 to check/grease all the bearings

I understand that the special castellated socket is not really needed so have been looking at adjustable "C"/hook spanners.

I was looking at this adjustable one  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19-51mm-Chrome-Vanadium-Adjustable-Hook-Wrench-C-Spanner-Tool-P5-/171953684751?hash=item28093d010f:g:yhcAAOSw4HVWC8jx


Does anyone know what the OD of the nut is to confirm that this tool has the range to work?

Your understanding is a little different from mine.   There's a torque specification for that nut, and you can't do anything but a WAG at it with a "C" hook spanner.

Todd Eagan sells a really nice CNC-machined socket for this nut for a 1/2" drive for pretty cheap, not much more than the cost of a cheap "C" spanner.   Seems to me it would make sense to just buy that one .... ?

Lannis

[leafman60]

This castle cut adjuster is not very tight at all.  The torque value is relatively light, 10NM, and the adjuster should be easily removed with an adjustable wrench.

I have the fancy socket but it is really a bit of overkill.

When tightening up, I do it by feel rather than using the actual torque specified. 

If you end up removing the swingarm and reinstalling, go back after a few hundred KM of riding and check the tightness of the adjuster.

Take a look-
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=66579.0


.

[tris]

Your understanding is a little different from mine.   There's a torque specification for that nut, and you can't do anything but a WAG at it with a "C" hook spanner.

Todd Eagan sells a really nice CNC-machined socket for this nut for a 1/2" drive for pretty cheap, not much more than the cost of a cheap "C" spanner.   Seems to me it would make sense to just buy that one .... ?

Lannis

I was following the recommendation by Mr Roper in a thread a while back which LM60 appears to concur with, but I shall bear your comments in mind.
Cheers!

"The system is really no different to any other that uses opposed tapered roller bearings without a solid spacer. Same as trailer wheel bearings, rear wheel driver car front wheel bearings, the pinion bearings in the CARC or steering head bearings to give a few examples.

Once you have greased the bearings, (And made sure the inner seals in the frame are sitting on their registers, they are prone to popping out.) you can slide the swingarm with the bearings in in between the frame plates. Having a mate to assist with lining everything up is handy. The spindle #6 can then be slipped through the bearings and screwed into the RH side of the swingarm. It doesn't have to be insanely tight as it will be prevented from turning by the castellated nut which is in turn restrained from movement by the pinch bolts on the LH side of the swingarm. I simply wind it in till it stops and give it a light nip.

The bearings are then pre-loaded by screwing down the castellated nut #5. This presses on the inner race of the LH bearing pushing it into the cone in the frame and at the same time pulling the spindle back to the left. Since the spindle is screwed into the RH side of the swingarm this pulls the swingarm back to the left against the bearing and seating it in its cone in the RH frame plate.

As with any system like this what you are aiming to achieve by tightening the castellated nut is to remove all the end float from the opposed bearing a but at the same time you don't want the rollers in the bearings to be crushed by sufficient force to deform them and prevent them from turning freely as the swingarm moves.

My technique is very simple. Screw the nut in until you begin to feel resistance and then grab the rear of the swingarm where the bevelbox/CARC unit bolts on and rock it back and forth as you tighten the castellated nut. When no lateral play can be felt check that the swingarm can still move freely on its bearings, lock up the pinch bolts, job done. While the specified torque of 10Nm is obviously there for a reason in reality it is such a low figure that something like a small burr on the threads or a bit of grit between the nut and the swingarm will render it meaningless. Far better to do it by *Feel*. If after a ride you have doubts or can feel play in the bearings drop off the LH side plate and re-adjust the preload. I've never had to.

Pete."

[Lannis]

I was following the recommendation by Mr Roper in a thread a while back, but I shall bear your comments in mind

I appreciate that, but when I get double-teamed by a Roper quote (who does this for a living) and leafman60 in person (who did the definitive photo-essay on the process), the jury will disregard the last statement by the defense ... !      

Lannis

[Huzo]

One of my winter jobs is to remove the swing arm on my B11 to check/grease all the bearings

I understand that the special castellated socket is not really needed so have been looking at adjustable "C"/hook spanners.

I was looking at this adjustable one  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19-51mm-Chrome-Vanadium-Adjustable-Hook-Wrench-C-Spanner-Tool-P5-/171953684751?hash=item28093d010f:g:yhcAAOSw4HVWC8jx


Does anyone know what the OD of the nut is to confirm that this tool has the range to work?

10 Newton metres is 1 kg near as dammit on the end of a 1 metre lever, so if you want to, put a 500mm extension on your hook spanner/ wrench, and put 2 kg of force on it. That'll satisfy your requirement.

[tris]

A good answer Huzo but not too the question I was trying to ask

My fault for not being clear

I was trying to establish if this hook spanner has the range to connect to the nut/bush

[Huzo]

Just finished re greasing my Norge races. The outer diameter is 38 mm

[tris]

Cheers Huzo - looks like that hook spanner will do the job

[Huzo]

I'm gonna tension mine the way roper said to. Sounds like the best thing to do. Make sure you don't support the bike on the centre stand only, when you take out the bolts holding the foot peg mounting plates, the bracket can rotate that holds the stand and the whole lot can collapse ! I put a trolley jack with a pad under the rear of the sump, with the front wheel locked down and a strap from the rear grab rail up to the roof. It works well if you have a scissor lift in your workshop.