Fine Guage Wire Connectors

[skimbrie]

The PO of my bike added after market LED turn signals/running lights. The connection at the light-end is permanent. He fed the wire through a hole in the fairing too small to pass the light through and I was too impatient to follow it and disconnect the other end when I needed to remove the fairing. So I cut the wire and carried on with the job. Now the fairing is back on it and I'm ready to re-attach the really, really fine double strand wire and I have no idea what is the best way to do it. I left about 2 inches of wire at the light end - plenty of slack. Suggestions welcome.

Thanks for reading and HAPPY NEW YEAR!

[twowings]

http://www.elecdirect.com/crimp-wire-terminals/heat-shrink-terminals/?utm_source=bingads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=bingads

[skimbrie]

I see the butt connectors I need but do I really need to buy a $75 crimping tool?

[twowings]

No.

Those aren't the only weatherproof splices...just the first I googled.  You may even want to use male-female bullet connectors that can be unplugged if you need to remove stuff for maintenance...your local home improvement or hardware store should have everything you need at a reasonable price...

[skimbrie]

Appreciate the info. I'm pretty much a newb at this and never worked with anything this fine before. Usually leap before I think. Trying to turn that around - New Year's resolutions and all.

[Murray]

Did you leave enough length at the connector end to simply join the wire? If these http://www.ozautoelectrics.com/circuitry/crimp-terminals/non-insulated-crimp-terminals.html are what you are after commonly avaliable at the local auto electrics.

[Sasquatch Jim]

 Solder them and insulate with heat shrink.  This will splice in large enough wire for disconnect terminals
for future work.

[skimbrie]

Hmm . . . I know I need something detachable . But without experience,  don't know what to choose. The bike has all kinds of nifty detachable plugs and connectors from the factory. All engineered and sh*t. Maybe I'm overthinking and should just get the smallest bullet connectors I can find.

[skimbrie]

Solder them and insulate with heat shrink.  This will splice in large enough wire for disconnect terminals
for future work.

That's a good idea.

[ITSec]

Hmm . . . I know I need something detachable . But without experience,  don't know what to choose. The bike has all kinds of nifty detachable plugs and connectors from the factory. All engineered and sh*t. Maybe I'm overthinking and should just get the smallest bullet connectors I can find.

For this type of connection, I use Molex connectors (similar to those used in computer work and some automotive) and put heat-shrink over the back of them. You would need a Molex crimper (usually about $25) and some of the appropriate connectors. Molex connectors use male or female pins that you crimp on the stripped wire and then push into place in the connector. This helps eliminate strain at the wire crimp, since the connector takes most of it.

You can get them in 2,3,4,5,6 or more pin connector types; I use the 4-connector type for my extra rear lights (+ for turn, brake and running and -, 4 wires on each side).

[Kiwi_Roy]

Have a look around your house for old wall worts (power supplies) they can be a source of small two conductor wire.
One wire is identified with a white stripe to denote positive, you need the polarity correct for LEDs

Solder and heatshrink the pair to the lamp.

[Tom H]

If these lights have the gnats a$$ sized wire. I have just doubled my wire strip length and folded the wire back on itself to make a thicker wire to work with. Then used a RED colored wire splice or bullet connector. Not sure if this will help in your situation. Just a thought.

Tom

IT's suggestion would be a great way to go though!!

[DonTom]

Hmm . . . I know I need something detachable . But without experience,  don't know what to choose. The bike has all kinds of nifty detachable plugs and connectors from the factory. All engineered and sh*t. Maybe I'm overthinking and should just get the smallest bullet connectors I can find.

What I do when I need a wire to be easily detachable (all that is needed is a small screwdriver) is to break off a section of an European Style Terminal Strip. They come in various sizes for various wire gauges.  Use a small flush cutter to break off a section. When you have one wire to extend , just use one section. For two wires to extend near each other, break off a section of two, etc. One screw to remove per wire to detach. They work great in all weather, last forever and reusable.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

I see the butt connectors I need but do I really need to buy a $75 crimping tool?

No, for Butt connectors, you can use a good ten dollar tool or even find  a cheaper one for less than even half that price.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[ponti_33609]

I like using these. Cheap. Believe waterproof too.


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[jas67]

Solder them and insulate with heat shrink.  This will splice in large enough wire for disconnect terminals
for future work.

Be sure and get "waterproof" heat shrink.   It has hot-glue on the inside surface that melts when you heat it, and seals the connection to keep water and moisture out.

 :1: on the posi-tap and posi-lock products.   They work quite well, and are, of course, quickly removable.   
I especially like the posi-taps vs. the regular "vampire taps", as they pierce the insulation of the wire being tapped with a sharp point that inserts itself between strands, vs. the regular taps that can end up cutting strands.

[giusto]

What I do when I need a wire to be easily detachable (all that is needed is a small screwdriver) is to break off a section of an European Style Terminal Strip. They come in various sizes for various wire gauges.  Use a small flush cutter to break off a section. When you have one wire to extend , just use one section. For two wires to extend near each other, break off a section of two, etc. One screw to remove per wire to detach. They work great in all weather, last forever and reusable.

-Don-  Reno, NV

Don,

Do you have a photo of the European style terminal strip of which you speak? This sounds interesting....but I am not sure I know what you are talking about.

Thanks

Happy New Year

[Wayne Orwig]

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/85429/N0215.oap?ck=Search_N0215_-1_-1&pt=N0215&ppt=C0189

[DonTom]

Don,

Do you have a photo of the European style terminal strip of which you speak? This sounds interesting....but I am not sure I know what you are talking about.

Thanks

Happy New Year

There is a link to click on in that message the shows the photo.

Again:

CLICK HERE for photo and other info.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[giusto]

Don, Wayne,

Thanks for the links/photos. I didn't notice the link in your first post Don....was viewing on my phone and missed it. I like the idea of the screw verses crimping. I'll give them a try.

Cheers

[Carlo DeSantis]

Solder them and insulate with heat shrink.  This will splice in large enough wire for disconnect terminals
for future work.

I've used this technique a few times and it works well.  Gives you a lot of flexibility.

Best,

Carlo

[redhawk47]

 :1: for the Posi-Locks. They are reuseable; you can disconnect a wire to remove your fairing and reconnect it. They are not rated as waterproof but unless you live in a wet climate they should be fine. You could shrink tube them or tape them up. They also make a watertite connector - Posi-Tite - but the smallest size is 20-18.

[DonTom]

I didn't notice the link in your first post Don....was viewing on my phone and missed it. I like the idea of the screw verses crimping. I'll give them a try.

These screw thingies are MUCH more reliable than crimp connectors, besides the fact that they can be reused and either one or two wires can fit in at each screw. I have been using them on motorcycles since I have been riding. And that's more than 50 years of riding.

Yeah, I am that old!

-Don-  Reno, NV

[sturgeon]

Posi-Locks

[giusto]

These screw thingies are MUCH more reliable than crimp connectors, besides the fact that they can be reused and either one or two wires can fit in at each screw. I have been using them on motorcycles since I have been riding. And that's more than 50 years of riding.

Yeah, I am that old!

-Don-  Reno, NV

Don,

Thanks for the tip...will be ordering a few strings.

as far as being old...it beats not getting old 

[DonTom]

I've used this technique a few times and it works well.  Gives you a lot of flexibility. Best,Carlo

I've used every method mentioned here. Which way is best depends on what you're trying to do to what and where. But in most cases, crimp connectors are my very last choice and I find I mostly use those screw thingies I mentioned. I have all type of connectors, tubing, posi-locks, etc. that I can use here too.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[Kiwi_Roy]

It's pretty hard to beat a well soldered joint provided it's not subjected to constant flexing, that's what they use at the Guzzi factory

[DonTom]

It's pretty hard to beat a well soldered joint provided it's not subjected to constant flexing, that's what they use at the Guzzi factory

Unless you want to be able to easily disconnect it at times.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[Carlo DeSantis]

Quote from: Kiwi_Roy on January 03, 2017, 03:22:23 PM

It's pretty hard to beat a well soldered joint provided it's not subjected to constant flexing, that's what they use at the Guzzi factory

Unless you want to be able to easily disconnect it at times.

-Don-  Reno, NV

If you solder a stouter lead to the fine wires, then stabilize the joint with a couple of layers of shrink tubing, you are in position to use any type of connector you desire: posi-lock; molex; bullet; spade; etc.  I'm thinking that's what Kiwi Roy might have had in mind.

Best,

Carlo