Installing Heated Grips on 850T Now with ride video

[swooshdave]

It's time to install my Christmas present. Plus now that I have the LED headlight bulb I should have extra juice for the grips.

This is the new version of the grips I'm using. They are really nice, LCD instead of LED to see the setting and it also shows battery voltage! Dang, I wish I had that version.

https://www.amazon.com/Bikemaster-Heated-Grips-Switch-Am19012h/dp/B00NYBZ4CQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1489212531&sr=8-7&keywords=heated+grips+for+motorcycle

Oh well.



First step was to remove the bar end mirror then the old grips. They came off quickly with some air assist. Left side is easy, clean the handlebar and push... really hard. The new grip went on.



The throttle side was more complex. I had to take the throttle off, then shave down the throttle tube (there were four ribs that were removed). Then I took my heat gun and carefully warmed up both parts. Then shoved. That got it on about 80%, then I grabbed a clamp and got it on the rest of the way. They supply glue to hold the grips but I've never had to use it.



Before moving to final wiring it's always a good idea to test the grips. I grabbed some jumper wires and went right to the battery. I turned the grips on and they warmed up nicely.



I've put the controller up on the handlebar for now. I'm not sure if I will leave it there but it works for now. On my Triumph I put the controller under the handlebar so the bright LEDs don't shine in your face.

I still need to run the final wiring. You obviously want to use a power source that's switched. I think I'll Positap into one of the wires near the fuse box. I'm just not sure which one yet.

[EldoMike]

If you haven't upgraded the charging system you might want to keep a eye on the battery charge level...

[swooshdave]

If you haven't upgraded the charging system you might want to keep a eye on the battery charge level...

There isn't much load on the system with an LED headlight bulb and taillight bulb. But I will keep an eye on it.

The grips draw just less than 40w on high. If my math is correct the LED head light is 20w down from 55w. So just there it's almost a wash.

I'm not sure how much the Dyna ignition takes.

Did the later Ts have an upgraded alternator?

[siabeid]

I have had heated grips, a dyna ignition and a standard h4 headlight bulb on my t3 for years. Around here, I use them a lot. I have never had a problem with the charging system not keeping up.

[EldoMike]

T3 has a 20A charging system...T has a 14A system

[swooshdave]

T3 has a 20A charging system...T has a 14A system

Is there an easy way to see if someone updated the charging system?

[Testarossa]

My Guzziology and workshop manuals are in a box in Paonia, along with by carton of old Bosch bits. But I seem to recall that the 20-amp stator has connections to three poles, whereas the 14-amp stator has connections to just two. That is, in addition to the three yellow wires to the rectifier, the 20-amp stator has three peripheral terminals hooked up vs two for the older stator.

[EldoMike]

There is also a sticker on the stator

[rodekyll]

IIRC the upgrade rotor is a larger diameter (maybe 73mm v 75mm?) and the later stator has a spader blader at the "Y" lug.  (sorry, couldn't help myself  ) That's from ancient memory though, don't hold me to it.

But to maybe steer you clear of trouble --

One of the annoying things about the LED and HID spec sheets is that they don't measure stuff consistently, or the way you'd expect.  You can see that by browsing the lighting aisle of the local Home Depot -- claims of lumens v consumption are all over the board because they aren't all measuring things the same way.  It makes accurately calculating your total energy load a challenge, but it's important if you've got an anemic charging system such as the bosch.

Is the 20w total system draw (dies + all that other stuff hanging off it), or is it the draw of just the dies?  Some marketing specs are deceptive about total system load to appear competitive.  Also, does the load remain the same draw for both low and high beam?  My LED adds dies to the array to make high beams = 100% more draw.

 . . . and then there's the rpm you need to maintain to wring the blood out of the turnip. .  .

[swooshdave]

IIRC the upgrade rotor is a larger diameter (maybe 73mm v 75mm?) and the later stator has a spader blader at the "Y" lug.  (sorry, couldn't help myself  ) That's from ancient memory though, don't hold me to it.

But to maybe steer you clear of trouble --

One of the annoying things about the LED and HID spec sheets is that they don't measure stuff consistently, or the way you'd expect.  You can see that by browsing the lighting aisle of the local Home Depot -- claims of lumens v consumption are all over the board because they aren't all measuring things the same way.  It makes accurately calculating your total energy load a challenge, but it's important if you've got an anemic charging system such as the bosch.

Is the 20w total system draw (dies + all that other stuff hanging off it), or is it the draw of just the dies?  Some marketing specs are deceptive about total system load to appear competitive.  Also, does the load remain the same draw for both low and high beam?  My LED adds dies to the array to make high beams = 100% more draw.

 . . . and then there's the rpm you need to maintain to wring the blood out of the turnip. .  .

I don't lug the bike. It like 3500-4500rpm. And up.

And 145w is called anemic? If it was Lucas it'd be mid-range!

[canuck750]

The V7 Sport and 850T came with a pretty weak charging system. The T3 was a higher output.

Euro motoelectrics sells several charging system kits for Moto Guzzi, this is the 400 watt mid range kit for $350.00, I have installed this kit on a couple of my Guzzi's

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl3-altkit105.htm

This is the deluxe 450 watt system for $499.00

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit105.htm

And you can get a complete kit for as cheap as $225.00, a pretty good deal, matches or betters the T3 output.

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl1-altkit105.htm

[Testarossa]

In my experience the ignition system draws at least 6 amps, a 55w headlight about 4a. You may be feeding only 2a thru the LED headlamp but even so with a 14a alternator the charging system will have to be in top shape to keep the battery strong if you're pulling 3a through a heating system. One advantage of the T is that you can switch off the headlight when you don't need it.

I put the same grip-heaters on the Mille. The Saprisa alternator at a nominal 20a barely keeps up at 3000 rpm and no hope idling around town. I haven't yet found an LED bulb that will fit in the shallow Mille shell, but I can retire that shell when I mount the SP fairing.

And I recommend the EME upgrades. They worked well on my T.

[sidecarnutz]

The alternator in my 1990 Cali III is getting weak from age. You have to spend hours on the hiway in 4th gear to recharge the battery. But I have the Saprisa alternator. Not sure of that kit will fit!

[canuck750]

The alternator in my 1990 Cali III is getting weak from age. You have to spend hours on the hiway in 4th gear to recharge the battery. But I have the Saprisa alternator. Not sure of that kit will fit!

I think this one will work, best to call Euro motoelectric,

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit105.htm

[Testarossa]

I think all the bikes with the Saprisa have the tapered crankshaft nose that fits the Bosch rotor, so all the EME stuff should work, or any Bosch retrofit for that matter.

[swooshdave]

In my experience the ignition system draws at least 6 amps, a 55w headlight about 4a. You may be feeding only 2a thru the LED headlamp but even so with a 14a alternator the charging system will have to be in top shape to keep the battery strong if you're pulling 3a through a heating system. One advantage of the T is that you can switch off the headlight when you don't need it.

I put the same grip-heaters on the Mille. The Saprisa alternator at a nominal 20a barely keeps up at 3000 rpm and no hope idling around town. I haven't yet found an LED bulb that will fit in the shallow Mille shell, but I can retire that shell when I mount the SP fairing.

And I recommend the EME upgrades. They worked well on my T.

Due to a wonky Yamaha switch I have it wired always on. Besides here you have to burn the headlight at all times.

As long as the output of the alternator matches the load it should be fine, right?

[rodekyll]

Due to a wonky Yamaha switch I have it wired always on. Besides here you have to burn the headlight at all times.

As long as the output of the alternator matches exceeds the load it should be fine, right?

There you go.

[swooshdave]

I looked at the fuse box and there are unused spade connectors there. So I just plugged directly into that. Instant switch power. The ground is directly on the battery.

The grip wiring comes with it's own fuse (other arrow).



Then I just ran the wires up along the main harness and the connections are behind the headlight. It's a little messy back there but I'll clean it up when I get my new handlebar switch.

Everything seems to be working. It'll be a nice riding day today, so I'm hoping to get out and test. I've got a battery monitor so I can keep an eye on the voltage.

Side note: I rolled that bike outside in the dark and the LED headlight bulb works great. Plenty of light.

[sidecarnutz]

I think this one will work, best to call Euro motoelectric,

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit105.htm

Thank you! It does say it replaces the Saprisa. Mine is 27 years old now. I figure it has a right to be tired.

[swooshdave]

Got out for a ride yesterday to test the grips. Too bad it was sunny and 65 degrees. Still they warmed up.

https://youtu.be/okqlUc_u-e4

I checked my battery voltage when I got home and it was 13.2v. That's a good sign. I'll continue to keep an eye on it.