What kind of mileage are you guys seeing from your stock clutch pads?

[thepittsburghguzzi]

Hey friends. Thought I would put the feelers out there and see what kind of total mileage you guys are getting out of your stock factory clutch pads before replacing them. My 2012 V7C just turned over 17,000 miles and the clutch started slipping on me. After a minor panic, I adjusted the screw at the gearbox end, and we're now back to normal. Of course I'm particularly interested in hearing from fellow V7 owners, but anyone here can chime in. How long have they lasted for you guys? And what kind of miles have they been? For me, there's a ton of urban stop and go involved, so I'll surely see less clutch life than some of you guys out in the open country. On a second note, while I'm at it, what kind of spark plug wires and caps are you guys liking? I hear some negative things about the stock ones and I'm interested in replacing mine soon. Let's hear it!

[SmithSwede]

I just passed 56,000 miles on 2013 V7 Stone.   Clutch is just fine.  Think I adjusted it once.

The rubber OEM spark plug caps are utter crap, and gave me repeated episodes of misery.   Replace them ASAP with the good, phenolic (not rubber) caps by NGK.   I forget the NGK stock number, but there are several threads about this, so search for them.

Another tip.  Use the rubber caps at the top and bottom of the plugs that NGK supplies with the cap.   Do not omit them as I once foolishly did. 

Heck, I'd also recommend using silicon sealant on the spark plugs wire where it enters the cap. 

You do not want any water in there.   Don't ask me how I know.

[TimmyTheHog]

I just passed 56,000 miles on 2013 V7 Stone.   Clutch is just fine.  Think I adjusted it once.

The rubber OEM spark plug caps are utter crap, and gave me repeated episodes of misery.   Replace them ASAP with the good, phenolic (not rubber) caps by NGK.   I forget the NGK stock number, but there are several threads about this, so search for them.

Another tip.  Use the rubber caps at the top and bottom of the plugs that NGK supplies with the cap.   Do not omit them as I once foolishly did. 

Heck, I'd also recommend using silicon sealant on the spark plugs wire where it enters the cap. 

You do not want any water in there.   Don't ask me how I know.

When you said "adjusted once", which side of the clutch did you adjust? The gearbox side or the lever side???

I am no where near the millage as you have, but would like to understand it before it does happen to me :P

[Triple Jim]

Clutch friction plate life depends greatly on your technique.  Revving the engine and slipping it wears it faster than getting it gently engaged at near idle speed, and then applying throttle, for example.  Slipping the clutch to get engine braking when downshifting wears it faster than blipping the throttle and slipping it gently into the next lower gear.  I imagine you could easily get a 4:1 difference in life between someone who is hard on the clutch, versus someone who is very gentle with it.

[BigDave in PA]

My 01 EV is at 105,000 miles on the original clutch. It still works like new. My wife's V65SP is at 75,000 miles on the original clutch and it's fine as well.

[sidecarnutz]

1990 Cali III. 30k miles. Still original clutch.

[ITSec]

2008 Norge - 125,000 miles. I might do the clutch sometime in the next year, as it has a small amount of slip under extreme duress.

2004 750 Breva - 45,000 miles when I sold it in 2012. Clutch was still fine at that point.

[Ncdan]

In 50 years I've owned dozens on motorcycles, all major brands and sizes. I have never had to replace a clutch plate or very seldom adjust one from the proper adjustment from the start,  over 10s of thousands of miles.

[malik]

The clutch on my V7 Classic started slipping at 120,000 km. When I pulled it down, there was a fine film of oil in the bell housing (red tinted) & in the clutch. It looks like the oil came past the clutch rod seal which was a bit deformed. There was plenty of material left on the friction pads themselves - they would have been fine if not for that slippery stuff. 170,000 km now, still working fine.

Mal

[80CX100]

To the OP, I'm not that familiar with small blocks and the clutch/push rod/seal design, but if it's just a smaller version of the dry clutch on the big blocks you may want to read my post in regards to a slipping clutch problem I had on a new to me California Vintage and how I fixed it http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=86448.msg1364265#msg1364265.

Coles notes; my Calvin had too much gear oil put in the transmission case by the previous owner, some oil had apparently leaked past the push rod seals and contaminated the clutch plates causing slipping whenever I hammered the throttle hard.

I drained the transmission oil out and put in the right amount of gear oil,,,plugged the bell housing with a small piece of softwood,,, flushed and rinsed the clutch plates with mineral spirits twice,,,bike on center stand, engine running in gear (be careful!) fanning clutch,,, drained mineral spirits,,, then took the bike for a ride and fanned the clutch(abused) 20? times, at moderate/safe speed  on a quiet back road,,, creating a lot of heat and friction, scrubbing the plates clean?. Solved my slipping clutch problem it's been fine ever since,,, definitely the easiest and most successful McGyver repair I've ever done,,, love it when a red suspender plan comes together,lol.

I picked up some of the O rings to better seal the clutch pushrod and do a more complete, permanent fix,,, but at this point,,,"it aint broke, so I aint fixing it",,, I'll only do that job whenever I have to pull off the swing arm for whatever reason.

I shouldn't say it out loud, I'll probably put the curse on my repair,lol,,, but so far,rinsing/cleaning the clutch plates has solved my slipping clutch problem, and I recommend it to anyone with a similar issue,,, very simple cheap repair, and so far, knock on wood,,, seems to be a permanent fix fwiw ymmv.


good luck

Kelly

[Chuck in Indiana]

but if it's just a smaller version of the dry clutch on the big blocks

It's not. It's a more elegant design  than the big blocks.

[sidecarnutz]

Thinking back, I have never worn out the clutch plate lining. What has always worn out first is the acme cut teeth on the clutch hub. They get worn and then the clutch plate won't float well when you pull the clutch lever. Makes the clutch very grabby. But I have always installed a new clutch plate and hub when I have done this repair. Bad thing to get cheap with seeing all the labor that goes into changing them.