Cal Vin Charging problems

[dgurovich]

OK.  I've replaced the voltage regulator, checked the fuses, cleaned the battery cables up with new terminals and heat shrink..  So tell me.  Is the Alternator the only piece left in the system?  I know it's wired right, and the battery is new.

IF it is the Alternator, is there a bigger one that will fit on it?  Should I have mine re-wound?  What is the best solution?

I'm at the hole+gasoline+match stage here.

[guzzisteve]

If you have the spots on all the time-- that's the problem. System will not support spots on full time. You can also take out the evap can from the batt plate and install a 30-34AH batt in it, a batt designed for the sys.

[dgurovich]

I never run the spots -- I run the bike around town, and after 40 minutes or so, the Tach goes to zero.  This is a sign that the battery is about to go flat.  You have about 4 miles to find home or a place to park, 'cause you're going to be on foot.

I think at this point it's the Alternator, just wondering about a beefier one?

[Kev m]

When you start and run it what voltage are you seeing? Does it vary with speed?

When you replaced the voltage regulator was there a separate ground strap or ground lead? And if so did you make sure to clean the mounting point as well?

I can't speak to a higher output, but I never NEEDED a higher output on my Jackal even when running heated gear, though I DID go to LED tail lights.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

AFAIK, there isn't an alternator with higher output available for the Cal Vin. If the current one is putting out the correct voltage, then I'd be doing what Steve says - larger battery - and switching to LED lighting. Just changing the headlight bulb can make quite a difference. I swapped out the halogen H4 in my Convert's headlight for a RTD LED bulb ($12 on Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MPXS2KS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and it made a huge difference. 60/55 watts vs. 40/20 watts. Before, any extended "urban" riding and my Kuryakn battery gauge would drop down into the yellow zone, with the LED headlight bulb it's always in the green. The LED is much brighter as well.

In the taillight, I used Sylvania 2357R bulbs (it has two) with similar power savings (42 watts incandescent vs. 5 watts LED on brake light, 14 watts vs. 2 watts on taillight).

I'm working on switching my 4-1/2 spots over to LED next. I tried just replacing the halogen PAR36 sealed beams with LED replacements, but they're made for landscaping and can't handle the vibration generated by a vehicle.

[dgurovich]

Very cool info.  I plan on charging the battery tonight and testing the power coming out of the yellow wires on the Alt -- I'm expecting a goose-egg. 

[guzzisteve]

Yellow wires should yield   AC Volt of 15V@1Krpm, 40V@3K, 80V@6K. May have a cracked cell even in a new batt.

[dgurovich]

What Alternator fits?  Multiple years or is CalVin a special?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

What Alternator fits?  Multiple years or is CalVin a special?

Same as other models with the straight-nosed crank and Ducati Energia alternator.
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1845.htm

[guzzisteve]

High out put looks like it started in 04 on the V11 Sport bikes w/PN #GU32712410 and on Cali's same time w/PN #GU32712411.  Only 1 # different between them   The lower output is PN #GU37712405 and was the same # on Cali's and Sport's
It goes back to 1990 or after Suprisa

[dgurovich]

Thanks for the link.  Is the EnduraLast alternator the same as the Energia, or???

[Wayne Orwig]

Your Vintage alternator is as good as the Enduralast. You need to find the problem.
Check the AC voltage going into the regulator.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Kiwi_Roy]

The black wire going to the regulator MUST have 12 Volts on it, BTW its fed from the same Red/Black wire that feeds the tach and as you found out the tach fails and the bike stops a while later
There are 2 relays the start and the headlight relay that feed the red/black wire

As someone else mentioned you must have a good ground on the regulator to chassis or preferably an engine bolt, thats the way the charging current get's back to complete the loop.

Actually I might be wrong, please tell us anything you know about the regulator
Make, model, wire colours.

I suggest you hang a small 12 Volt lamp between the black wire and chassis (temporary), it should be On full brightness as long as the key is on, if it goes out or dull you will have a warning

Do you have a multimeter with the diode test range, looks a bit like --->|--- , If so I want you to do a test on the regulator.

Check the connectors on the yellow wires for signs of heating
.
Check the 30 Amp fuse if there's one fitted for any discolouration,

BTW, I'm with Wayne, the OEM alternator is perfectly adequate but take the cover off and examine where the yellow wires solder to the coils, sometimes they break off.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Carl's drawing shows a different regulator than the one I described
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_California_Vintage.gif

I don't think this one needs grounding as it has wires for Positive and Negative, it's also a direct connected type so has done away with the flakey Voltage Reference.

I have zero experience with this one but reading the drawing I would say make sure both + and - wires are securely connected and the fuse shows no sign of overheating as in plastic turning black.

Inspect all the bullet connectors where the regulator plugs into the loom and the alternator.

Inspect the joint between yellow wires and coils

A question while you are there, are the two + and the two - wires the same gauge or one larger than the other?
If you unplug the regulator you should see 12 Volts on any combination of +/-
Its such a simple looking setup I'm grasping at straws

And as usual I'll rabbit on about cleaning the battery terminals and apply Vaseline, I wouldn't do that if I hadn't seen Oxidized terminals so often.

[Diploman]

When I started, then tested my 1980 V50 II after several years of inactivity and numerous modifications, the alternator was not charging, and the battery went flat after about 30 minutes.  After analyzing the problem, receiving advice here, and referencing the issue in Guzziology, I discovered that the ground from the diode board (ie, the regulator) to the chassis was missing.  I grounded the diode board to the frame and -bingo - the alternator was suddenly working perfectly.

Kiwi_Roy is precisely on target when he states above that the regulator must be effectively grounded/earthed to the chassis, as proven by my bike's example.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Kiwi_Roy is precisely on target when he states above that the regulator must be effectively grounded/earthed to the chassis, as proven by my bike's example.

According to Carls drawing, it's not the Ducati Energia with ground return, has dedicated wires for battery Negative

[dgurovich]

The Two yellow wires going in were overheated, and the plastic connector was so chewy I had to replace it.  The fuse had also been so hot that it had melted its mount -- I removed that one and added an in-line fuse -- everything else bolted up nicely.  The system had definitely been hot at one point.

I ordered the Alternator a couple of days ago and I'll get it wired up.  The regulator has two yellow wires going in, two ground and two positive wires going out.  Actually it has three wires but I've only connected two as that is how many are coming out of the Alternator.

The weekend is coming.  I have a '54 Morini that will be coming off my lift on Friday and I'll put the Cal Vin up there and get this finished.

[jim_W]

I removed the melted connector on the yellow wires and soldered them. Check or add a ground from regulator to the motor Problem solved on mine 

[Kiwi_Roy]

I ordered the Alternator a couple of days ago and I'll get it wired up.  The regulator has two yellow wires going in, two ground and two positive wires going out.  Actually it has three wires but I've only connected two as that is how many are coming out of the Alternator.
 

So why are you changing the alternator again, The OEM one is perfectly adequate