Symptoms of tight valves or fuel map? Air box?

[MotoBug]

My V7II special with 6400KM on the odo feels like it's not running as good as it could. I wonder if it's in my head but the last 1000km or so it feels a bit rough especially in lower revs. It seems mostly ok after 4-5000 rpm and other times it hums along the freeway nicely.

I've also been getting the stalling problem when starting which a few others have had. Start it up and it idles but usually stalls within 15 seconds. Start again and revs go up and down until it stabilises which takes about 30-40 seconds. I tried the battery disconnect but no difference. Maybe try it again?

Then there's the problem where after parking for 20-30 mins after say a one hour ride it tries to stall when I take off. Annoying and embarrassing . When I bought the bike in May I read of others having these problems but at the time mine was starting and idling nicely. Only a few times did it have the taking off when warm issue.

Any suggestions?

[pete roper]

is the tank venting correctly?

[MotoBug]

Hi Pete. Yeah I checked that after reading your reply in another thread. Couldn't here any whoosh or hiss when I opened the filler cap and still same problem when I started it today.

[timonbik]

 If the stalling after parked problem is worse when the bike is in the sun or on a hot day, I would suggest it might be the vapour canister,  Many threads about it on this site and others.

Cheers, Tim

[MotoBug]

Thanks. I'll do a search for vapour canister for that issue. If it's a Nth American emissions thing we may not have that on the Australian models.

[beetle]

No vapour canisters on Aussie bikes.

Pull the air filter and

1. Make sure it's not dirty
2. There's no oil in the air box.

[MotoBug]

Thanks. I forgot about the air filter. I'm going to readjust the clutch cable too as it seems to have changed on a 500k return trip I did recently. Feels easier to pull lever but action is still very close to grip.

[MotoBug]

The clutch just needed a little adjustment.

The air box though was awash in oil! On the side stand it measures over 20mm deep against the left wall of air box.Previously the two little condom things pointing forward looked okay so I smugly thought no problem there. Wrong. The one under the side cover was full. I cleaned the air box out did the battery reset and took it for a 54km country roads ride. Stopped for a few minutes to check clutch and no issues with stalling when riding off.

Got home and after 5-10 mins checked oil and level seems the same as yesterday when I checked it. Can be a little vague the oil on the dipstick. It's over the min mark but smears further up as well. Maybe me wobbling the bike cos I check it while sitting on it. Why no centre stand? 
I forgot to release the fuel cap before leaving so did it when I got back. There was a slight pfftt hiss.

Some pics. The air filter has a few pink fins. I'm guessing I need to replace it?

[beetle]

I'd replace it. You've probably blown all the excess oil out by now. Once you've cleaned it out, just be sure to not overfill the engine oil.

[MotoBug]

Yeah I've just emailed John at Motociclo to see if he has stock.

[pete roper]

I'd be surprised if he doesn't but in that unlikely event I have them on the shelf.

Pete

[jpv7]

I have a V7ii Special also.  I was filling to top line and she was putting oil into air box - keep oil level between min and max lines with bike level.  A bit will still go, but nothing like you show here. It still bothered me so i disconnected line to the airbox (and capped it) and installed a Magnum PCV Enhancer on the line - basically a small catch bottle with steel balls in it.  Clean it out once or twice a season and that's it.  Airbox stays clean now.

[JACoH]

Yep, I did the Magnum PCV bottle also, and keep oil level in the middle of stick. Got tired of cleaning the air box.

[TimmyTheHog]

Yep, I did the Magnum PCV bottle also, and keep oil level in the middle of stick. Got tired of cleaning the air box.

 :1:

my mark has been 1/3 between full & min...was still putting oil in my box...

[MotoBug]

Not good given the small oil capacity. Some photos would be handy if anyone gets a chance. I don't want to be replacing air filters on a regular basis. It's under warranty so I'm going to go that path. Thanks Pete. I'll let you know if I need one.

[MotoBug]

No need for pics thanks. It's this thing I'm guessing
http://www.magnumtuning.com/en/detail/hho-pcv-enhancer

[pete roper]

If the II's are particularly prone to this why not just fit a sump extension and add 2.5 litres instead of the 1.8-2.0 Litres required with the stock sump? More oil and lowered crank are pressure so hopefully less expulsion! More win!

Pete

[MotoBug]

Money, ground clearance and it shouldn't do this in the first place. I'm no engineer but they seem like valid reasons to me.

[jpv7]

Not good given the small oil capacity. Some photos would be handy if anyone gets a chance. I don't want to be replacing air filters on a regular basis. It's under warranty so I'm going to go that path. Thanks Pete. I'll let you know if I need one.

Yes, good point about oil capacity.  As mentioned, i keep mine midway between low and full, and check it before every ride.  Even running it hard, it consumes no oil other than the slight mist going into my catch bottle.  I never add to it.

[MotoBug]

By catch bottle do you mean that little canister with the bb's in it?

[jpv7]

By catch bottle do you mean that little canister with the bb's in it?

Yes. 

Something i didn't mention was when the bike was new, i was keeping the level at the full line just like you, and noticed it would drop after a ride.  I thought the damn bike was burning it, so i would top it up...eventually i realized where it was going.

I figure it's best to just keep the airbox clean - that's why i went with the small catch bottle.

[MotoBug]

I check oil about once or twice a fortnight and I haven't had to top mine up yet but it wouldn't hurt to add a little bit now. Mildly poor running is what got me scratching my head before Beetle suggested checking the air box.

[MotoBug]

Well a month or so on.... I replaced the air filter and it seemed to be ok for a while but it feels like the rough running is back. Checking the air box there was a little bit of oil but the filter looks clean. The dipstick was showing 3/4 full and checking it yesterday it was just above the min mark three times and about 1/2 way 2 times so that suggests it isn't over filling that's causing the oil getting into the airbox.

The bike runs but it justn't isn't pulling as well as it did and feels kind of lumpy or like it's lugging very slightly. Any more suggestions on what to check before I take it to the dealer? Spark plugs perhaps?

Thanks,  MB

[SmithSwede]

I have a 2013 Stone.  For what it is worth, I have found that the perfect oil level is when the oil is right on the minimum line on the dipstick when the engine is dead COLD.

When it is at operating temperature (stinking hot) it is just below the midway point between MAX and MIN.   

I have also noticed that it is a bit fiddly to get a correct reading, since the dipstick comes in to the crankcase at quite an angle, and it is easy for the dipstick to wobble around on the threads as you try to check it.   To get an accurate reading, I hold the dipstick high up while inserting it so it cannot touch the oil.  Then slowly lower it, and just barely screw it into the threads about 1/4 turn.  That will give you a consistent reading of the oil level.

[MotoBug]

Thanks I'll try that. I check when it's hot as recommended but it's a bit annoying having to heat up before checking especially if you want get on and go. Usually I sit on bike and lean over. I've also tried leaning bike to right inserting (not screwed) dipstick then leveling bike to take reading. Can't say I noticed much difference.

[SmithSwede]

Yeah, it is a pain to check when the engine is super hot.   So I checked oil level when stinking hot for a while, and ascertained the level that would not blow oil into air box.  Then I figured out what the COLD reading was for that optimal level.

It is surprising how much that volume of oil expands when it gets hot.  I think a lot of people overfill the sump based on cold or lukewarm dipstick readings, and then the oil blows out when the engine gets stinking hot and the oil expands above the optimal level. 

And as you noticed, a lot of riders check the oil at the end of the ride, find it to be seemingly low, so they assume the engine burned it.  Thus making the mistake of adding more oil, when in fact their engine had just self-corrected to the optimal level. 

Contrary to the advice in the Guzzi Manual, I would much rather check oil level when the engine is cold.   Like just before I go riding for the day.  The Guzzi manual logic is that it is the level of hot oil that matters for sustained running.    Well, that is true.   What is missing is that whatever the hot level is, there is necessarily a cold level equivalent.

[Howard R]

Yeah, it is a pain to check when the engine is super hot.   So I checked oil level when stinking hot for a while, and ascertained the level that would not blow oil into air box.  Then I figured out what the COLD reading was for that optimal level.

It is surprising how much that volume of oil expands when it gets hot.  I think a lot of people overfill the sump based on cold or lukewarm dipstick readings, and then the oil blows out when the engine gets stinking hot and the oil expands above the optimal level. 

And as you noticed, a lot of riders check the oil at the end of the ride, find it to be seemingly low, so they assume the engine burned it.  Thus making the mistake of adding more oil, when in fact their engine had just self-corrected to the optimal level. 

Contrary to the advice in the Guzzi Manual, I would much rather check oil level when the engine is cold.   Like just before I go riding for the day.  The Guzzi manual logic is that it is the level of hot oil that matters for sustained running.    Well, that is true.   What is missing is that whatever the hot level is, there is necessarily a cold level equivalent.

Simple thing to do: get bike to optemp, enlist aid as required to hold vertical, make sure oil level is correct.  Park bike on side stand, come back the next morning, unscrew dipstick as it sits, and make note (mental or otherwise) of level.  Then all you have to do is check the dipstick as part of the pre-ride and you'll know the oil level is good.

Howard

[MotoBug]

That would work. I wonder if the brand of oil has anything to do with it getting into the airbox. I'm using Motul 10w60.