Brake pads for the Cal 2

[brider]

I KNOW this has been beat to death before, I swear I searched, but nothing definitive came up:

Are the brake pads on my Cal 2 the same, front to rear, all 3 calipers? MG cycle lists the Brembo pad #  07418320 for all calipers, but I recall reading SOMEWHERE that there was a compound difference either front-to-rear, or front side-to-side, or both.

In addition, is there a preferred compound other than what MG offers on the Brembo pad?

I'm replacing my front rotors because they are visually WAAAAY thin, I say visually because there's an alarming step from the original OD thickness to the actual pad swept area now (45k miles), although I haven't measured it and there is no warpage indication, just friction squealing as I approach a stop. I think it's time, got a great deal on a set of used with thicknesses in spec.

Along with that, can I expect to wear brakes and rotors out faster on an automatic than a 5-speed? It's been so long since I rode a 5-speed, I can't recall how much downshifting contributed to braking. On my Auto, my riding style has me coming in HOT a lot of the time, and I wonder if this, and the auto in general which has NO engine braking, contributes to faster wear.

[rodekyll]

My research says HH pads on cast rotors and sintered on steel.  Brake pad life is entirely dependent on your riding style.  There's no way to speculate whether a 'Vert of 5-speed does better.  Definitely the same compound on both fronts.  Different on back is a riding style thing.  I go the same all around on the Rodekyll (Convert) -- HH for my cast rotors.  No complaints about performance, and it simplifies logistics.

$0.02

[chuck peterson]

My impression from Guzziology is the early verts had a different compound on the front left to create a braking bias toward the front...70/30 like with the higher friction on the front using the foot brake

Later versions accomplished the same thing by using a proportioning valve in the brake line splitter and the same compound on all three calipers. I believe this technique played out in all later versions of Cali's having proportioning valves internal

I loved having a softer pad/higher friction on the front left....but no ones road racing w a vert

Sintered pads will take a bigger bite out of the rotors, but I've out braked abs beemers in practice braking. As usual a middle ground somewhere

[brider]

My research says HH pads on cast rotors and sintered on steel.

Ummm, what does "HH" refer to?

[bigbikerrick]

 B Rider,I have used some of the  no name cheap organic pads you find all over flea bay.  These are very inexpensive, and on my Cal II automatic, and they have performed fine for me with minimal wear on my 3 rotors. I use the same pads in all 3, and they work great!
I prefer a "soft "pad that wont eat into my rotors on these old bikes, and the braking has been the same as with Brembo, or SBC pads.
I have not tried them in the rain, though, as I cant remember the last time it rained here!
Rick.

[rodekyll]

Ummm, what does "HH" refer to?

Hmmm.  Fouled that up. 

HH generally refers to metalized, sintered pad materials.  GG is a softer, non-metallic ("organic") material held together with resins instead of sintering.  I said HH in my post when I meant GG.

Sorry about that.

[Tom H]

B Rider,I have used some of the  no name cheap organic pads you find all over flea bay.  These are very inexpensive, and on my Cal II automatic, and they have performed fine for me with minimal wear on my 3 rotors. I use the same pads in all 3, and they work great!
I prefer a "soft "pad that wont eat into my rotors on these old bikes, and the braking has been the same as with Brembo, or SBC pads.
I have not tried them in the rain, though, as I cant remember the last time it rained here!
Rick.

On my EVT I tried a set of pads from fleabay claimed low rotor wear and low dust. They seemed fine in the dry, but the first time in a gentle rain, on the freeway and hit the brakes, nothing. Seemed like forever before they started to grab. If it had been an emergency stop, I would have hit the car in front.

On cast rotors, somewhere here I read you should not use pads like EBC HH. They will eat your rotors.

Good luck with your choice.
Tom

[Chuck in Indiana]

Hmmm.  Fouled that up. 

HH generally refers to metalized, sintered pad materials.  GG is a softer, non-metallic ("organic") material held together with resins instead of sintering.  I said HH in my post when I meant GG.

Sorry about that.

Yeah, HH pads on cast iron will eat rotors up.

just friction squealing as I approach a stop

Uh oh....

[brider]

On cast rotors, somewhere here I read you should not use pads like EBC HH. They will eat your rotors.

Good luck with your choice.
Tom

This may well be why my rotors are so worn....I don't think I paid attention to the compound last time I installed pads.

I am now educated, glad I asked the question, thanks all!

[rodekyll]

This may well be why my rotors are so worn....I don't think I paid attention to the compound last time I installed pads.

I am now educated, glad I asked the question, thanks all!

I learned the "hard" way, too.  After 25-odd years with the same cast rotors I went to sintered pads on the Convert before starting a trip from Alaska.  At first they were pleasing in all respects.  But by the time I got to Minneapolis the brakes were throbbing, the rotors were under specs and visibly chewed up, and the brakes were ineffective.  I ended up replacing them in the alley behind my daughter's apartment.

That's not to say sintered pads don't work on the Convert -- just that they're hard on cast rotors.  If you can find steel rotors, sintered wouldn't be a problem.