Which cam lobe?

[ampm7]

I seem to remember that the narrow cam lobe on the distributor for an Ambassador is for #2 cylinder and the wider one for #1. Am I right? And is that as viewed from sitting on the motorcycle in other words, #1 on the right side and #2 on the left side? Thanks

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Narrow - #2 (Left), Wide - #1 (Right). Had to look, never having needed that information before. Are you installing the distributor or some other operation?

[ampm7]

I was checking the timing and I have it correct Charlie except, I am getting a very weak spark at the points and none at the plug. I know that the timing wouldn't have anything to do with the intensity of spark but was just going over everything. Excellent battery also so, that is not a problem. I pulled the tank and checked the ohms of the blue Bosch against a new replacement that I got just in case and all readings were exactly the same. 3.9 and 9.6-8k. Magnecor spark plug wires which I have used on numerous bikes and excellent quality plus new wiring harness from Greg Bender. I will change the plugs to new but after that I am all out of answers. Even though i have other bikes to ride,


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 I want my Guzzi! Thanks

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Have you checked voltage at the + terminal of the coil? Original ignition switch or new one? All fuse holders clean and tight, new fuses? New or known good cap and rotor? I prefer solid core wires myself.

[Tom H]

Not sure if this will help...

I have had an issue with the Eldo at least. I check/adjust the points (that is when the issue seems to happen?) and put it all back together. Go to start the bike and no spark. Pull coil wire out of dist. and no spark just a hair away from the head. Pull cap and rotor and with a screwdriver wiggle and make the points spark a few times. Reassemble and most of the time I have spark. If not I repeat. This has happened even after filing the point contact faces.

I do not understand what causes this, all parts work fine except when I mess with the points, and not every time??

Good luck!
Tom

[mtiberio]

looking at the motor from the front, first the left cylinder (that is the one on your right) fires, then the motor turns clockwise 270* (once again looking at it from the front), and then the right cylinder (that is on your left) fires. Then the motor turns clockwise (again, from the front) 360*+90*=450* until we are back where we started. Since between the left and right cylinder firing is 270* of crank rotation, and between the right and left is 450*, the points cam hump is of shorter duration between left and right. The points have to open (causing a spark), and then close again to saturate the coil before the next opening/firing. FWIW, I have a theory that if you want to adjust the timing on each cylinder independently on a single point cam, you do it using point gap. I believe that the opening ramps are of different angles, which means that if the points are on the small end of the allowable gap or at the high end of the opening gap, the number of degrees between each side firing changes slightly. You can use this to get your loop timing spot on (should you wish, I never have). It only works if you have timing marks for both sides (so you can check it), either on your flywheel or timing cover.

[ampm7]

I found a possible problem but have to put more gas in it today to restart. The high tension coil wire I reversed and noticed that it was not tight in the distributor cap. A matter of fact it is was very loose. So, I re-tensioned. Charlie I did do voltage tests at the distributor and the voltage was down at 12.3 and 13.0 at the battery. That does not effect the starter at all so, it should not be a concern as if there were a problem with voltage the starter would probably not rotate. Putting gas in today and will re-start. Wish me luck! Thanks

[SED]

Doesn't a spark at the points indicate a bad capacitor?