T-3 weight and palletized shipping...

[radguzzi]

… To Australia…! 

So this cat on the MGNOC FB page has been asking questions about shipping the T-3, extra engine and frames to Oz...! 

Does anyone here happen to know the approximate dry weight of the T-3...? (which is actually sans the seat and exhaust) I can weigh the engine and frames and add that all together.   

Preparing a pallet to ship all this is going to be a pain but I will proceed with obtaining info on getting the Guzzi with parts to LA for pick up to Aussi Land.

I have hired Federal for several m/c shipments here in the US and they were rollers, I wonder if they or any other shipper will be able to come pick up this pallet with a fork lift, load it into a transport and send it to LA..?  I will call Federal but any first hand knowledge of this type of shipping with advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks much,
Rob

[Tom]

It might be easier to use a freight forwarder since they would be making all the arrangements to OZ.  PU and drop off to the addresses on the waybill.  The crated bike would then find it's way on a ship out of Boston, NYC or even NOLA.  It would depend on what company and what ship.

[fotoguzzi]

496 pounds

https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/moto%20guzzi/moto_guzzi_850_t3_california.htm

[LeRoy]

If you plan to ship to Australia on a wooden pallet, it must be constructed either of engineered wood (typically plywood) or natural/raw wood that is specifically marked as treated to be free of plant pests and disease-bearing organisms. The required treatment on natural/raw wood may include heat treatment or fumigation and any conventional wood/lumber you use must be specifically marked to meet these standards. Worse yet, this kind of wood is difficult to source.
If you plan to use any kind of wood packing material, pallet or crate, your best bet is to use engineered wood, entirely and only. Here's a primer on what is necessary to consider:

https://internationalshippingusa.com/ispm_15_rules.aspx

A few years ago I shipped an 850T along with a wide range of accessories, spare engine parts, aluminum tank, seat and other body parts to Australia. I built a wood pallet entirely out of plywood as well as a plywood box/shell to contain everything. The crate had room for the bike below and an "attic" above to hold all the boxed spares. Every piece of wood was plywood. In several cases, for example the stringers on the pallet and stand-offs to get a forklift under it, I used several layers of plywood strip that were glued and screwed together to achieve the dimensions necessary. I used pounds of screws and pints of glue. The entire shipment and delivery went without a hitch. If you'd like to discuss the particulars, just drop me a PM. But whatever you do, don't even consider using even the least little bit of standard lumber!

One final thought: Make sure you discuss with the shipper any requirements or limitations on the physical size of the crate; W x L x H. If you get into an oversize dimension it can quickly escalate shipping costs.



 

[Perazzimx14]

Leroy's pallet looks good but I wonder if its good to rely on the air staying in the tires during the trip. If one or both tires loose air pressure the bike will flop around the container. Might be a good idea to put some cribbing under the bike to bind against or maybe deflate the tires then tie down.

[EldoMike]

Also best to remove the disc brake pads as they have problems with asbestos related items

[cliffrod]

After domestic & export shipping whole bikes in recycled manufacturer-built steel crates (and disassembled bikes in 55 gallon drums..) I would rather spend the time and money sourcing a usable crate from a bike dealership than trying to build one.  The better ones are harder to get for free than they were years but can still be had. Some ship them back to the manufacturer now, so you need to play the game.  Money spent buying one is worth it to me, versus the risk of a home built job catching the eye of an anxious official.  By comparison, seeing a steel manufactured crate probably won't look atypical and they're very simple to quickly inspect by removing cardboard or film.

You may have to get parts from 2-3 to secure all the needed parts without damage.  Not usually a problem.  shops often have had the equivalent of (at least) one or two 5 gallon bucket of the nuts, bolts and hardware that come from these crates.  You may need to remove and stow the wheel(s) and maybe the bars so make sure to get those axle clamps and any interior braces for use or patterns.  Some authorities required ALL fluids to not only drained but completely evacuated, both to avoid spills and fire/explosion. Brake pads and such may need address.  Paperwork requirements for titles, vin, etc varied.

these crates are easy to forklift and are often designed to make it possible to stand the crate on end or sometimes upside down without damage to the contents.  I've done it, just to see.  They are designed with side & top weight loads in mind.  They also facilitate quick spot inspection along the way and crating materials quarantine once it hits port- both of which can leave the contents in limbo indefinetly until $$$$ solutions resolve things.

Regardless of what you crate with, either work closely with an experienced exporter or know what has to done for all to work on the other end.   I never had anything seized or lost, but was not ambivalent about the process. 

[TOMB]

Just an FYI
 the pallets that we used in the warehouse where I worked the white ones ,weight would range between 35 and 40 lb , if you're using a CHEP  thats  C H E P  type pallet usually blue
at  least the ones we were using ,they run about 65 lb of piece you have to factor that total weight in also .

In the end as others have indicated a closed container is probably the best option.
TOMB

[Dukedesmo]

The 496lbs mentioned above should be about right.


When my bikes have the MOT (roadworthyness) test here they are weighed for the brake test to give an efficiency number/rating. The LM2 tips the scales at around 220kg (with fluids) and I can't imagine a T3 being much different.

[Tom]

Which ever way you go.  Home made or recycle steel shipping pallet from a dealer.  Easiest would be a disposable steel one from a dealer.  Get the whole crate.  Frame and all up rights.  For international shipment, the crate has to handle other stuff placed on top of it.  I forget the weight allowed.  If you build your own, use pressure treated wood.  A Ducati crate would work. 

[stubbie]

Australian customs are red hot on anything wooden, dirty, asbestos. So be warned. I have heard of US imported cars being stripped at the owners expense looking for asbestos. Cars costing an extra $15k to the importer. Make sure all your paperwork is up to scratch as sitting in a storage facility while you sort it out will also cost you big bucks. I'd go to a bike dealer and ask for a crate or whatever they use. I got one from a Guzzi dealer in the eighties. Wooden base and cardboard sides. Apart from that, good luck.

[radguzzi]

Thanks all,
I think we have come to realize that this may not happen...

Couple of reasons.  First is the title situation.  Maine does not issue titles for vehicles older than twenty-five years old.  Period.  You cannot obtain one if you wanted one, I have tried, long story, they sent my money back... lol

The shipper requires the title before they will even consider moving the m/c into the country.   

Secondly is the amount of regulation that many of you have been forthcoming with regarding the crate type, asbestos, wood or not wood... mind boogling...! 

I do appreiacte all the input, weight estimates and the staggering amount of regulations.  Wow...!

Thank you,
Rob





 

[earemike]

Yeah, the shipper needs a title so it’s clear it ain’t stolen.

You can ship frame and engine seperate though...