Only 110 miles done on my new Stelvio, major oil leak from Engine

[TommyR]

Heck, just 110 miles done on my new MY17 Stelvio and I already have oil leaking out of the sump pan joint to the block.
Has anyone ever seen this lovely leak before?








 
Tom


removed spammy link -R59

[oldbike54]

 Dangit , that isn't good , although it is likely an easy fix .

 Dusty

[pete roper]

Unfortunately if it's coming from the bell housing it's unlikely to be easy. Engine out job.

Pete

Oh, and check the oil level. It shouldn't be higher than half way between the 'Add' and 'Full' Mark's on the stick. If it's grossly over filled it's probably a blown rear mainseal. There are a couple of other leak points up there as well though. Not as many as the earlier bikes though.

[Knuckle Dragger]

Bugger me!  A new bike too.  Looks like an early return to the dealer for service & repair.

[Old Jock]

Don't know if these are like the older biikes I know

Had a leak at the sump and it wasn't the gasket (after 3 gasket changes I wised up) it was the rear seal running down the bell housing then around the gap where the sump meets the spacer and looks just like a gasket leak

Obviously as Pete states (when is it not?)

Check oil level

Clean it all up once clean you can use talcum or the like, when you run the bike to ascertain the source, I do hope it's no worse than the gasket.

I've an Sporti that I suspect has blown rear seal and it's going to be a right royal PIA..............en gine out then you can go fix it 

[pauldaytona]

Could be anything looking at your pictures, oil comes from above. You need to clean the bike, and then drive a bit, and then look where it's wet. 

And take the tank off, to have a good look from above.

Or let the dealer do it.

[TommyR]

Hello all,

Yes - Pete Roper, thanks - the engine oil level was about 0.5cm about the max fill level on the dipstick. How the hell stuff like this happens at the dealership [I refuse to believe it's the OEM fill in Italy] I`ll never know. Yesterday, In an attempt to see if was simply venting oil, I drained about 0.5 quart out of the sump thus returning the oil level to the top-fill mark on the dipstick, then ran the bike. Alas, I`ve still got oil dripping from the left side rear of the engine. I will call my local dealer today [luckily a different dealer to the useless crew who sold it to me over in CA]. Perhaps at the same time the dealer can remove all the air from my front brake circuit too. Hmm.

Thanks for your input guys....
Tom

[yogidozer]

They make a spray on, powder like stuff for tracing leak paths.
Clean everything, then spray it on, watch where the leak is coming from. My guess, like. already mentioned, is overfill.
Good luck!

[chuck peterson]

Drip.

Those are drips.

Leaks are dessert plate sized.

Something to fix is dinner plate size. Bring more oil until it's winter.

 

[yogidozer]

Drip.

Those are drips.

Leaks are dessert plate sized.

Something to fix is dinner plate size. Bring more oil until it's winter.

 

Said the guy who wears depends 

[Roebling3]

THAT is so rude.
I'm playing defense for Chuck while trying to improve the conversational climate for my future self.  R3~

[yogidozer]

THAT is so rude.
I'm playing defense for Chuck while trying to improve the conversational climate for my future self.  R3~

It's called sarcasm, I have known Chuck for a looong time. But just for you I will hold up a sign next time. 



img uploader

[Bisbee]

That’s a shame. What also concerns me is why is that oil so dark? The oil in my new Stelvio - 300 miles - is crystal clear. Unless you off road into the La Brea tar pits, I don’t understand. Is something else going on?

[yogidozer]

That’s a shame. What also concerns me is why is that oil so dark? The oil in my new Stelvio - 300 miles - is crystal clear. Unless you off road into the La Brea tar pits, I don’t understand. Is something else going on?

I would say the first oil change is very important. New parts are just breaking in, mating together, that would explain some dirt/debris in the oil.
Part of break in usually includes frequent short run time, which makes condensation. 

[Cam3512]

I would probably drain the original oil and do a change with the PROPER amount (see Pete's post).   Clean it up real good and see what happens. 

[Cage Free]

I would probably drain the original oil and do a change with the PROPER amount (see Pete's post).   Clean it up real good and see what happens.

I wouldn't do anything but let the dealer figure it out and fix it. Isn't that one of the many perks of a new bike?

[Cam3512]

I wouldn't do anything but let the dealer figure it out and fix it. Isn't that one of the many perks of a new bike?

Yea, but that depends on the "dealer", and how far away.

[twowings]

check your breather hose(s)...

[Bulldog9]

I would probably drain the original oil and do a change with the PROPER amount (see Pete's post).   Clean it up real good and see what happens.

I agree. Change the oil (proper level) clean the engine up check and make sure there's not a ton of oil in your air box and ride it.

[kirb]

I would assume engine oil for various reasons...photo the main one.

It could also be trans oil... it's easy to tell- factory ENI oil in the trans has a bit of a sulfur smell. The crank case oil does not.

I had a similar issue- except my clutch plate spring retainer let loose and lodged into the trans case. Drop engine, split trans, replace case half, reassemble. Not for the faint of heart, but doable at home. Dropping/installing the engine was the biggest PITA of the entire project.

[JohninVT]

Pull the lid to the airbox.  If the bottom is full of oil the bike was over-filled.  Mop it up, change the oil and you should be good to go.  It take literally a pint over-full to create an Exxon Valdez spill on your garage floor.  Don't trust the capacity listed in the manual. Check the oil with the engine warm, dipstick resting in the fill opening and the bike level.  That's the factory suggested method.  I actually fill with oil until it's at the top mark with the dipstick screwed in.  I find the black plastic dipsticks kind of hard to read so I drill a couple very small holes in the fins of the stick.  Oil fills the hole which makes reading the level much easier.  Good luck!     

[TommyR]

Latest and greatest on my oil leak. 5/11 My local dealer [Detroit Iron Cycles - great guys] took in the bike, told me he cleaned everything, checked the oil level, checked the airbox, removed the tanks, checked everything, rode the bike then left it on its side stand and on it's center stand. No leak. Cool. I picked up the bike yesterday 5/18, rode it 25 miles home, put it on the side stand...drip, drip, drip all over my shop floor. Rode it back to the dealer...drip, drip, drip all over his floor. Dealer pulled off the little plastic inspection cover on the right side of the flywheel housing. There, lo and behold, was lots of oil. The starter ring gear has been throwing oil all over the inside of the flywheel housing. Thus, must be a blown rear main seal or o-ring. Bike has to go back next weekend for an engine-out. I`m insisting on a new main seal and a new o-ring. Lets see!!! Not good news for a brand new bike but it's really clear to me this bike must have been abused at the original dealership, Eurocycle Sonoma of Windsor, CA. That's the penalty of buying a bike with some miles already on the clock due presumably to test rides by prospective buyers.

Cheers - Tom

[Tusayan]

The seal failure likely has nothing to do with how the bikes been ridden.  Sometimes seals are flawed from the factory, or the sealing surface has a tiny flaw that damages the seal.  When I was about 16 I replaced two rear main seals in a row on my dad's car, requiring engine removal both times, before the third one functioned properly.  That was frustrating.

A bike with say 3000 miles on it is more likely to have had any infant mortality issues worked out.  That's why new bikes with zero miles have warranties, although personally I'd rather buy used and possibly avoid some hassles.

[LowRyter]

110 miles?

I'd take it back and have my bank pull the check.

[coast range rider]

I wouldn't do anything but let the dealer figure it out and fix it. Isn't that one of the many perks of a new bike?

The warranty repair of my 2017 Stelvio with 611 miles on it got approved by Moto Guzzi, with Moto Guzzi paying $269.20 to the dealership for the repair. This dealership (to the south of us, @Cage Free) sent me this in an email:

"The difference that you will be responsible for is $124.37. This difference is for the extra time that the technician will need in order to complete the work that is not reimbursed my Moto Guzzi.

When submitting for warranty coverage with the various manufacturers we carry, it is often the case that there is difference between what the manufacturer is willing to reimburse us for, and the amount that the repair actually cost to perform. This is because the manufacturer supplied flat rate labor times are extremely optimistic, and do not reflect a realistic amount of time for completion of repairs."

Before this eye opener, I would have agreed to "let the dealer figure it out and fix it." In my case (very different complexity level than what @TommyR needs), I did the repair myself.

I post this not to bash the dealership, but instead to educate Guzzi fans about new bike perk possibilities. Owner of the dealership seemed angry I purchased my Stelvio at a different dealership, this could be relevant, but that is speculation.

[blackcat]

110 miles?

I'd take it back and have my bank pull the check.

I'd be looking at that route also. Pulling the engine, replacing the main seal.....bad start in my opinion.

[pyoungbl]

110 miles?

I'd take it back and have my bank pull the check.

Note the OP bought the bike from a dealer in CA but OP lives in Michigan.  "taking it back" ain't an option....neither is "pulling the check".  It's still a warranty claim to be done by the dealer in Detroit.

[Vagrant]

Hard test rides won't wreck a seal. Just bad luck. Just be thankful he's willing to fix it and smile when u pay up. Many won't now days

[usedtobefast]

So the original dealer had put way too much oil in it, is that correct?  So I assume that contributed to (or caused) the seal/o-ring to blow out? 

Whew, hope they take care of you.  I assume you are looking at 6-8 weeks in the shop?  (tear down, parts order, etc)

Stories like these make a V-Strom look more attractive.   

[Ncdan]

So the original dealer had put way too much oil in it, is that correct?  So I assume that contributed to (or caused) the seal/o-ring to blow out? 

Whew, hope they take care of you.  I assume you are looking at 6-8 weeks in the shop?  (tear down, parts order, etc)

Stories like these make a V-Strom look more attractive.   

Be careful, I went there a few weeks ago with the vstrom question and it got nasty:)